So I have been having noise in the front end of my jeep and I've gone through everything and we finally noticed some play in the front driveshaft slip joint. So expecting to have to get a new driveshaft sometime soon I started looking up the cost of the replacement driveshaft and every auto parts supplier kept coming up with a cv front driveshaft. I kept thinking that they just didn't know my "special" CRD jeep liberty and went from one to another but they're all saying it is supposed to have a cv driveshaft up front.... So am I? did someone put in an aftermarket U joint driveshaft by mistake? (or on purpose?) Is this even possible? Would I was to get another U joint driveshaft or go back to a cv? Would they have had to modify other things to put that in there? I can't find a part number on the driveshaft and to be honest it looks just as old as the rest of the jeep (134k). I will post pictures as soon as I get home I just wanted to get the panel of CRD experts thinking on it.

Thanks again for y'alls help and Ill do a full write up on the solution for the noise up front if this fixes

Pictures will help. I have a custom 1310 u joint drive shaft in mine. Must stronger than the weak CV driveshafts.

Most likely its a 1310 u joint if its NOT a CV head on the shaft

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

_________________
2002 KJ Limited 3.7, 5.25" lift via coilovers, custom HD rear springs, 32.2" tires on moabs (soon 33s) 4.56/JBA diff, OX lockers front/rear, NP241OR, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers, rock rails and roof rack, Viair OBA.

2006 KJ sport 3.7, 4" Ironman lift, 32" tires, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers and rock rails.

Yep. A cv shaft came factory on our crd's. There are rebuild kits available for them. I think I have 20k miles on my rebuilt one

_________________
2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

I'm without my jeep for a month or so. I left it the next state over at my parents house and took their sweet astro van because I have some training I'm attending where being late for car trouble isn't an option and I'm still in the rebuilding stage on the CRD. Its likely that the PO put the same 1310 u joint driveshaft in it. The joints had the zerk fittings like the 1310 seems to, also the slip yoke had a zerk fitting right in the side of it. He may have snapped or bent the previous shaft cause he was a little rough on the jeep. It seems that he wasn't too nice to the current shaft either because the slip joint has some play in it and it makes some exciting humming noise at speed. Could you tell me if you had to modify the front diff and transfer case at all to put in the u joint shaft or is a direct swap? Would you recommend I throw another u joint shaft in there (i like the idea of lubeable) or should I just throw in a replacement cv shaft (i don't like that the slip joint failed).

Thanks for your help.

Most likely he swapped out the yokes......again hard to say without pictures.

You can drop the front shaft and drive it without it in.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

_________________
2002 KJ Limited 3.7, 5.25" lift via coilovers, custom HD rear springs, 32.2" tires on moabs (soon 33s) 4.56/JBA diff, OX lockers front/rear, NP241OR, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers, rock rails and roof rack, Viair OBA.

2006 KJ sport 3.7, 4" Ironman lift, 32" tires, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers and rock rails.

I have a torn boot near diff case on front shaft. I am debating between rebuilding or replacing with aftermarket shaft. What do you mean by "custom 1310"? How did you built it?

_________________
'06 Liberty CRD Limited. Bought at 91K miles.
ARP studs, New rockers, Stant inline tstat, Weeks 1&2, Provent, IDParts Silicone hoses,
2-1/2" Full OME lift, Timing belt, Water pump, TransGo kit, Plastic fan, Fumoto
2nd gen fuel head with 2nd stage 2 micron filter, in-tank lift pump, G2 Rear Diff Cover

In my search for my mystery driveshaft I found what I think is one of the only companies that makes these for the Liberty. Tom Woods Driveshafts.

Heres a link if you're interested:http://www.4xshaft.com

I emailed Tom about my mystery driveshaft and got a (really quick) reply. He agees that it is likely one of his. He said he can't say for sure without pictures obviously. I asked him about the slip joint and he said that it is prone to failure if it isn't properly greased (of course). From what I've read he's pretty good about taking care of his customers.

I'm leaning towards buying another driveshaft from him except actually taking care of it like its supposed to be. His U-Joints carry a "Gold Seal" warranty which seems to amount to a warranty covering the damage to the driveshaft if they fail. I've also heard that a lot of people prefer to throw Spicer U joints in because his "1310" U joints have a zerk fitting on the outside of the joint rather than in the center which can "cause imbalance." The science behind that is way beyond my pay grade so I can't say either way.

Another note, putting in a U joint driveshaft on the Liberty will require (according to Tom) a flange/yoke which attaches to the transfer case. He says they're like 60-90 dollars. Seems fair. Good luck and hope my worried research helps.

I replaced the yoke on my diff ~$40 (already had a 1310 yoke on my np241or) and got a custom one made up for ~$160

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

_________________
2002 KJ Limited 3.7, 5.25" lift via coilovers, custom HD rear springs, 32.2" tires on moabs (soon 33s) 4.56/JBA diff, OX lockers front/rear, NP241OR, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers, rock rails and roof rack, Viair OBA.

2006 KJ sport 3.7, 4" Ironman lift, 32" tires, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers and rock rails.

Any driveshaft shop can make a front drive shaft that fits......

I run 100% spicer u joints, everything else is junk IMHO.

Your research relived nothing new to me. I have a Tom Woods shaft here at work, crazy expensive if bought new, but I went with something else instead. Something else......the one I have has 1310s on both ends, the d30a has a CV yoke on it......so yeah that will change. If it has 1310 yokes on both ends, PM me and I will hook you up with a buddy of mine in Utah.

I HATE the driveshaft CVs on the KJ. They are weak, but then again, 98% of people with a KJ will never break one, much less two.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

_________________
2002 KJ Limited 3.7, 5.25" lift via coilovers, custom HD rear springs, 32.2" tires on moabs (soon 33s) 4.56/JBA diff, OX lockers front/rear, NP241OR, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers, rock rails and roof rack, Viair OBA.

2006 KJ sport 3.7, 4" Ironman lift, 32" tires, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers and rock rails.

I don't do off roading so I would stick with the cheaper option of just replacing the CV joint. I see it is $45+shipping at driveshaftparts.com. Thank you for your insights.

_________________
'06 Liberty CRD Limited. Bought at 91K miles.
ARP studs, New rockers, Stant inline tstat, Weeks 1&2, Provent, IDParts Silicone hoses,
2-1/2" Full OME lift, Timing belt, Water pump, TransGo kit, Plastic fan, Fumoto
2nd gen fuel head with 2nd stage 2 micron filter, in-tank lift pump, G2 Rear Diff Cover

Yep.....thats what I do in my 06. 2 years on the driveshaftparts CV.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

_________________
2002 KJ Limited 3.7, 5.25" lift via coilovers, custom HD rear springs, 32.2" tires on moabs (soon 33s) 4.56/JBA diff, OX lockers front/rear, NP241OR, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers, rock rails and roof rack, Viair OBA.

2006 KJ sport 3.7, 4" Ironman lift, 32" tires, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers and rock rails.