CRD not running right, feels like no boost! Help Please!

disjaukifa · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2015 8:46 pm

Hey Guys,

So I had diesel leaking out of all my injectors, so I bought new seals and washers with new bolts to install them. Took forever to clean out all the trash, but I finally cleaned it all out however when I went to get it to run again, apparently I didn't prime the engine enough, even though I didn't see any air coming out when I bleed the fuel system and now I'm not producing boost until like 3K. I just have no power. It runs and drives, but I have no low end torque.

I'm wondering if I screwed up my injectors when I kept cranking it to get it to run. Is there an easy way to see which injectors are having issues and does anyone know a good repair shop where I can get my injectors rebuilt?

Thanks
Grant

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2015 8:59 pm

Any other symptoms?
Codes?
Smoke from exhaust?

What was wrong with the injectors? Why were they leaking?

Low boost can be a blown cac hose or bad vacuum solenoid.

disjaukifa · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2015 9:35 pm

flash7210 wrote:

Any other symptoms?
Codes?
Smoke from exhaust?

What was wrong with the injectors? Why were they leaking?

Low boost can be a blown cac hose or bad vacuum solenoid.

All the cooper washers and o-rings were leaking like crazy so I went ahead and replaced them all. I had standing diesel on the top of the engine.

No engine codes which is where, I haven't looked at the hoses though, and I haven't looked at the vacuum solenoid, where is that located on the CRD?

I will say this, around 3K it feels like boost comes on and if you are in park, and rev the motor, right around 3K a little bit of white smoke comes out of the exhaust for a split second.

Thanks
Grant

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2015 9:53 pm

The copper washers are what hold compression and combustion inside the cylinders.
The o rings just help keep dirt outta there.
If you had liquid fuel leaking from the injectors, it wasnt because of the copper washers.
Most likely becuase of leaking fuel line fittings to the injector. Or becasue of leaky return lines.
Did you get the injectors back into original places?

Make sure all your fuel line fittings are tight.
Make sure that your injector return lines are not leaking.
Check your boost hoses for tears.
Check all your vacuum lines around the turbo.
Make sure that the little sensor on the air filter lid is plugged in.

disjaukifa · **Posted:** Fri Oct 23, 2015 10:50 am

flash7210 wrote:

The copper washers are what hold compression and combustion inside the cylinders.
The o rings just help keep dirt outta there.
If you had liquid fuel leaking from the injectors, it wasnt because of the copper washers.
Most likely becuase of leaking fuel line fittings to the injector. Or becasue of leaky return lines.
Did you get the injectors back into original places?

Make sure all your fuel line fittings are tight.
Make sure that your injector return lines are not leaking.
Check your boost hoses for tears.
Check all your vacuum lines around the turbo.
Make sure that the little sensor on the air filter lid is plugged in.

I should also say I'm running Keith's EcoTune from GDE.

When I went to replace it, Cylinder #1 and #4 were both leaking fuel, when I pulled the cooper washer out both were burnt and missing some of the metal.

Anyway I'll go back and double check all the fuel lines are tight. I did have a leak on the fuel return line on injector #4 which I already took care of.

I will check my boost hoses again, I guess it is possible I put a tear in one while I was working on it, and I will check all the vacuum lines as well, something admittedly I have not done.

I'm surprised I have gotten any error codes inside though, that one has been a huge surprise for me.

-Grant

journeyjim · **Posted:** Fri Oct 23, 2015 11:01 am

Did you get both sensors on the air filter box plugged back in?, I forgot the back plug once and it acted just like that.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Oct 23, 2015 11:11 am

journeyjim wrote:

Did you get both sensors on the air filter box plugged back in?, I forgot the back plug once and it acted just like that.

He should need either with a GDE tune.

disjaukifa · **Posted:** Fri Oct 23, 2015 11:13 am

mass-hole wrote:

journeyjim wrote:

Did you get both sensors on the air filter box plugged back in?, I forgot the back plug once and it acted just like that.

He should need either with a GDE tune.

Yeah I was just about to ask about that, I thought I didn't need them because of the GDE tune. But yes I had the one one top and the one slightly off to the right on the side of the airbox plugged in.

-Grant

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Mon Oct 26, 2015 1:10 am

Did the new washers seal properly?

Hexus · **Posted:** Mon Oct 26, 2015 10:18 am

EVERY SINGLE TIME you take the injectors out, the copper washers have to be replaced. They are CRUSH WASHERS and only fit to form 1 time. If they get fouled, you have to replace them as well.

Order a whole new set of Gaskets (O-Rings) as well as about 8 crush washers, take everything out, and also make sure the old crush washers are out of the top of the intake. Then clean everything (12 gauge bore brush works best here, trust me) and replace the injectors with the new O-Rings and Crush washers on them. Be sure to follow the torque guidelines in the FSM (downloadable from Noob Guide).

11mm crow's foot socket works best on the fuel rail as well.

disjaukifa · **Posted:** Sun Nov 01, 2015 11:26 pm

Mike92104 wrote:

Did the new washers seal properly?

I have no idea how to check that?

Hexus wrote:

EVERY SINGLE TIME you take the injectors out, the copper washers have to be replaced. They are CRUSH WASHERS and only fit to form 1 time. If they get fouled, you have to replace them as well.

Order a whole new set of Gaskets (O-Rings) as well as about 8 crush washers, take everything out, and also make sure the old crush washers are out of the top of the intake. Then clean everything (12 gauge bore brush works best here, trust me) and replace the injectors with the new O-Rings and Crush washers on them. Be sure to follow the torque guidelines in the FSM (downloadable from Noob Guide).

11mm crow's foot socket works best on the fuel rail as well.

Why 8 washers? I did replace all of them. I put on all new o-rings and 4 new cooper washers and torqued the new bolts correctly.

I took the Jeep out today and it had nothing, not power, didn't feel like I got boost until around 3K. Is there a way to test to see if I have a bad injector maybe?

Thanks
Grant

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2015 9:25 am

disjaukifa wrote:

Mike92104 wrote:

Did the new washers seal properly?

I have no idea how to check that?

Easy way to check is to pour some water over each injector hole, then start the engine.
If you see bubbles while its running then you know the injectors are not sealed properly.

Are you still having fuel leaks?

Do you have a boost gauge? How do you know its not making boost until 3K rpm?
If this is the case, then you either:
a. have no vacuum going to the actuator on the turbo
or
b. the vanes in the turbo are stuck

At idle, vacuum to the turbo should be high. You can pull the vacuum line off and feel if there is any vacuum there. While doing this, shine a flashlight down between the turbo and exhaust manifold to look at the vacuum actuator linkage. When you pull the vacuum line off the linkage should drop. Reconnect the vacuum line and the linkage should pull up.

disjaukifa · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2015 10:15 am

flash7210 wrote:

disjaukifa wrote:

Mike92104 wrote:

Did the new washers seal properly?

I have no idea how to check that?

Easy way to check is to pour some water over each injector hole, then start the engine.
If you see bubbles while its running then you know the injectors are not sealed properly.

Are you still having fuel leaks?

Do you have a boost gauge? How do you know its not making boost until 3K rpm?
If this is the case, then you either:
a. have no vacuum going to the actuator on the turbo
or
b. the vanes in the turbo are stuck

At idle, vacuum to the turbo should be high. You can pull the vacuum line off and feel if there is any vacuum there. While doing this, shine a flashlight down between the turbo and exhaust manifold to look at the vacuum actuator linkage. When you pull the vacuum line off the linkage should drop. Reconnect the vacuum line and the linkage should pull up.

Okay I will try all of these this afternoon! As how I know its making boost, at around 3K the diesel finally feels like its accelerating like it use to but it still doesn't feel right, and I can hear the turbo spool at that point.

I can't remember if I posted this or not but I did try cleaning the injectors with carb cleaner and some shop towels because they were all really nasty could have have caused one of the injectors to get stuck or clogged?

Thanks
Grant

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2015 10:55 am

Quote:

I can't remember if I posted this or not but I did try cleaning the injectors with carb cleaner and some shop towels because they were all really nasty could have have caused one of the injectors to get stuck or clogged?

In what way were they really nasty?

If it was carbon around the area below the copper washer (the part that actually goes into the cylinder head) then that is normal.
If it was dirt and crud around the area above o ring, then that is normal too.
If it was gook in the area between the o ring and crush washer then that could be bad. Unless it was just stuff that fell down when you pulled the injector.
Cleaning the external surfaces of the injector with carb cleaner is fine.
Forcing some sort of solvent into the parts that should only have diesel fuel, that would be bad.

disjaukifa · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2015 11:21 am

flash7210 wrote:

Quote:

I can't remember if I posted this or not but I did try cleaning the injectors with carb cleaner and some shop towels because they were all really nasty could have have caused one of the injectors to get stuck or clogged?

In what way were they really nasty?

If it was carbon around the area below the copper washer (the part that actually goes into the cylinder head) then that is normal.
If it was dirt and crud around the area above o ring, then that is normal too.
If it was gook in the area between the o ring and crush washer then that could be bad. Unless it was just stuff that fell down when you pulled the injector.
Cleaning the external surfaces of the injector with carb cleaner is fine.
Forcing some sort of solvent into the parts that should only have diesel fuel, that would be bad.

The injector tips themselves were really nasty. I did not spray anything down the diesel inlet at the top of the injector. I don't think its a turbo issue because before I did all this work, the turbo and everything worked great on the Jeep, never had a problem with acceleration etc, which is why I'm thinking it was to be something with the injector work I was doing on it, as soon as I put it all back together it wasn't running right. I need to install a boost gauge on the Jeep so I can see what the turbo is doing.

I'm almost wondering if one of my injectors is getting stuck open or closed honestly.

-Grant

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2015 11:30 am

Quote:

I'm almost wondering if one of my injectors is getting stuck open or closed honestly.

If you really suspect a problem with the injectors, find a local diesel injection shop who can test them for you.
But I dont see how you could have done anything to screw them up.

disjaukifa · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2015 11:35 am

flash7210 wrote:

Quote:

I'm almost wondering if one of my injectors is getting stuck open or closed honestly.

If you really suspect a problem with the injectors, find a local diesel injection shop who can test them for you.
But I dont see how you could have done anything to screw them up.

Honestly I keep asking myself the same thing :cry:

. The only thing I can think of is that I didn't bleed the system enough and I got a air in the system.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2015 11:46 am

disjaukifa wrote:

flash7210 wrote:

Quote:

I'm almost wondering if one of my injectors is getting stuck open or closed honestly.

If you really suspect a problem with the injectors, find a local diesel injection shop who can test them for you.
But I dont see how you could have done anything to screw them up.

Honestly I keep asking myself the same thing :cry:

. The only thing I can think of is that I didn't bleed the system enough and I got a air in the system.

For the most part, air will purge itself out of the fuel rail. It just takes lots of engine cranking.
Easiest way is to crack open the #1 injector line at the fuel rail. Pull the ASD fuse so the engine wont start. Crank the engine until fuel drips out. Re-tighten the fuel line, put the fuse back, and crank the engine till it starts.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2015 12:13 pm

Yeah, sounds like the vanes might have got glued in place while it was sitting. I think you should see the turbo rod (actuator rod? whatever) move about 1/2" when you pull the vacuum line while it's running. You might need the oven cleaner method. A lot of folks advise the Italian Tuneup, but if you have an old sloppy turbo, that can kill it, especially if the vanes are sticking...
You can also grab the actuator rod and feel if the vanes are sticking. It should slide up and down the 1/2" I believe. Flash and others know this better than me....

disjaukifa · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2015 1:16 pm

Mountainman wrote:

Yeah, sounds like the vanes might have got glued in place while it was sitting. I think you should see the turbo rod (actuator rod? whatever) move about 1/2" when you pull the vacuum line while it's running. You might need the oven cleaner method. A lot of folks advise the Italian Tuneup, but if you have an old sloppy turbo, that can kill it, especially if the vanes are sticking...
You can also grab the actuator rod and feel if the vanes are sticking. It should slide up and down the 1/2" I believe. Flash and others know this better than me....

Hmmm interesting. Maybe it is the vanes, I'll take a look at that as well this afternoon after work.

CRD not running right, feels like no boost! Help Please!

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