P1189

Steve777 · **Joined:** Fri Oct 16, 2015 11:31 pm **Posts:** 284

I've been looking at an 05 CRD that has a few issues but otherwise is in good shape; and I am trying to decide whether or not to purchase it.

It has ~125K on the clock. Starts and runs well, but the two major issues I see are: the engine light is on and there is a fluid (oil or tranny) leak right at the front, and I see oil staining at the rear top of the engine.

The owner says the dealer looked at it, found a code P1189 which was Throttle Body Response sensor error, They replaced the entire throttle body but it did not fix the engine light. The P1189 is still there. Any thoughts on what is going on here?

On the oil leak, at a level parking spot, it would drip every 4-5 seconds while the engine was idling. Brown oil looking fluid, but I did not try and figure if it was engine oil or tranny fluid. Owner said he had not noticed any oil level changes, but that drip seems large enough that it should show. I was thinking either front main seal or perhaps tranny fluid from the cooler. Any easy way I can narrow this down?

I probably can't take this into a shop as it seems to be the owners only vehicle and he needs it daily. I was hoping folks here might give me some clues as to what these problems might be, best and worst cases, and what the associates parts and labor would run to fix it.

Thoughts? Are these easily fixable or is this a run don't walk away?

TIA

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:37 pm

P1189 isn't a valid DTC for this engine, or the gas variant, that I can see from the FSM.

What Dealer is scanning it for you?

The Diesel doesn't have a "throttle body" - It has an intake, fuel injectors, EGR valve, and Turbo.

Who the hell is trying to sell you this thing?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:48 pm

P1189 is not a throttle body sensor. Its related to the small sensor on the side of the air filter lid.

Brown oil? I dont know.
Diesel engine oil is usually black.
Transmission fluid is usually red.
Power steering fluid is usually red.

Maybe some oil or something is mixing with dirt/mud and dripping off?
Or maybe some fresh engine oil was spilled when the oil level was topped off?

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Oct 21, 2015 9:15 pm

Owner probably just did an oil change to impress, hide noises, thicker oil hides noises.
Front leak may be due to transmission cooler lines, known failing point. See if it has a leak between transmission and engine, from rear main. That means to remove transmission to fix it.

Steve777 · **Joined:** Fri Oct 16, 2015 11:31 pm **Posts:** 284

Thanks guys.

Yeah, it all seems pretty fishy, dealer coming up with the wrong fix, dripping oil and it's never is low... But on the other hand, a fairly straight clean truck that has many of the upgrades I was looking for (lift, erg reprogrammed, etc). If I felt the issues were fixable for not too much work/money I'd get it. No clue which dealer he went to, there are several in the general area, none of them have a great rep for their repair depts.

That is a good possibility that the owner refilled the oil and was sloppy, at least for the oil on the top back. Still probably a front seal or trans cooler for the drip up front. When I did a quick look in the parking lot, the lower area of the radiator/trans cooler/AC cooler was wet with fluid. Probably engine oil (maybe new engine oil and that is why it wasn't pure black yet), but might have been ATF with a bunch of dirt mixed in (all dirt roads up here). Pretty constant drip from the bottom of that area while the engine was idling, one every 4-5 sec.

I'm obviously not familiar with the CRD engine, but have worked on quite a few others. I would have expected that if a front seal had gone, there would be a drip from the crank pulley not up by the radiator; and the front of the engine would be covered in oil, no? This true for CRDs?

How hard and what's the parts cost on a new front seal. How about for the trans cooler leak? I've done a few front seals on other engines, the usual hassles are getting everything off to get to the seal. I suspect one has to remove the timing belt to redo the front seal on this engine, that right?

Interesting that the P1189 is for a sensor, not a throttle body. I wonder what the dealer really replaced. The current owner does not sound like he knows how to wrench, so it may just be him getting confused. But I wonder what was replaced and why it didn't work. Just curious is this the MAP sensor they mention in the newb guide? Besides the code, what are the symptoms one would see if this sensor is acting up? Anything one would notice in driving? And I suppose I should ask, what's the cost of a new sensor and how hard is it to replace it (I assume just pull the old one, replace, plug it in). Does it require any special tools to calibrate the new one?

One other "problem" the owner mentioned is a lag when one floors the go pedal. He said the dealer said this was likely a vacuum leak, but might be related to the P1189 sensor too. I didn't notice it too badly when I test drove it, but I was not in a place I could really let go either. Any thoughts on this?

And lastly (hope I haven't used my quota of newbie questions yet), with what is wrong, what is a fair price for this liberty do you think?

Thank in advance.

senatorjohn · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2015 6:52 am

Can't find any info on P1189 in my KJ service manual. P0105 is the code for the air pressure sensor on the air box as far as I can work out. Chased a P0105 error for 12 months and eventually tracked it down to the MAP sensor reading high by 20 Kpa. at idle. This should have given a code P0108 I feel. So looks like my code reader gave an incorrect code or I am totally confused. Beginning to feel a CRD is not a good friend but can't sell unless I take a massive loss, like $5,000 on a $10,000 cost to date. Love it to drive but it's like a naughty child with the trouble it causes. If you can't tolerate loads of frustration, buy something else. From what you say about the vehicle, It is worth about $4,000 max either in USA or Aus. and could run to over $10,000 by the time it is sorted, as in my experience. But then I am starting to get very negative about Jeeps.

John

dirtmover · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2015 8:10 am

It's a red light to me when people try to sell vehicles with obvious issues and try to downplay it. Dripping fluid must come from somewhere so would have to be replenished unless it's diesel which you'd easily smell from 20 paces.

The fact that he continues to drive it despite this may indicate that it's not been looked after very well in the time he's owned it.

Fluid around the radiator is probably tranny fluid from the hose going into the cooler. This is a common problem area. You should see the red through the dirt.

Not sure how the crank is sealed at the front but any leakage there and you can say goodbye to the timing belt in short order so I think you can rule that out.

Oil residue on the engine could be spillage from filling, injector or return hose leaking diesel, oil mist from the CAC hoses which would appear in the vicinity of the turbo. The exact location may help pinpoint the most likely source.

Take a look at this for the code taking note of the comment regarding lack of power:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=46532

The current owner may have simply disturbed the sensor when replacing the air filter?

For the lag, is the problem you describe lack of power from the engine or delayed kickdown? Power form the engine is probably related to the pressure sensor. Delayed kickdown may be a symptom of low fluid - drip drip drip!

Low mileage for age and no obvious major issues but with a couple of minor issues that need addressed, I'm guessing it's in the $7K-$8K range if he can prove conclusively that the 100K service was done. If not then knock $1.5K off. You can play the pressure sensor two ways, for peace of mind try to address it before buying or take a gamble that this is the problem and use it as a negotiating point.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2015 9:28 am

1189 is the small sensor on the side of the airbox.

As far as the leak up front. Like others have stated, it's prolly trans cooler lines related or trans cooler itself. If that's the case I'm parting one out and I have a good one.

For the oil spot at the top back, someone might have have the valve cover off at some point and left residue or it could be from the ccv puck

senatorjohn · **Posted:** Fri Oct 23, 2015 2:51 am

jws84_02.
Where did you find that information on P1189 ?
John

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Oct 23, 2015 6:58 am

From my DTC list:
P1189 - unplugged air pressure sensor on side of airbox
:roll:

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Oct 23, 2015 2:39 pm

P1189 may be in the 2005 book, but not the 2006 FSM...

I think we've ran into this before.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Oct 25, 2015 3:01 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

From my DTC list:
P1189 - unplugged air pressure sensor on side of airbox
:roll:

That's what I remember about that code. May be a bad sensor or may just not be plugged in tight. The plug is hard to snap in.

You mentioned it had been reprogrammed. Any details on that? Did the owner say GDE tune?

Steve777 · **Joined:** Fri Oct 16, 2015 11:31 pm **Posts:** 284

The owner did say GDE tune. They are supposed to get me the receipt but I have not seen it yet.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Oct 26, 2015 10:54 pm

Hmmmm. If it has a GDE tune then the 1189 should be masked. I bet when the dealer got ahold of it they immediately plugged it in and overwrote the Gde tune with the latest crap DCJ software.

Steve777 · **Joined:** Fri Oct 16, 2015 11:31 pm **Posts:** 284

Yeah, I thought that was odd. But probably a moot point now. Seller has sold it to someone else. May be for the best, as the owner was not really giving me answers to my questions or coming up with the receipts for the work that was supposedly done.

Thanks for all the help. There will be another...

wraithe · **Joined:** Mon May 07, 2007 4:49 am **Posts:** 1

I know this is an old thread, but you saved my butt yesterday. My 2005 CRD was "running fine" until you nailed the throttle, then it would never exceed about 3100 rpm or shift gears. The temp/pressure (whatever) sensor on the side of the air box had come loose, plugged it back in, no joy. The plug wasn't tight, so I zip tied it up tight, then cleaned the MAP. Cranked it up, shut it off, cleared all the codes and it runs great again. Thanks again.

Herb
2005 Sport CRD
162,000 miles

P1189

Who is online