Any other symptoms?
Codes?
Smoke from exhaust?

What was wrong with the injectors? Why were they leaking?

Low boost can be a blown cac hose or bad vacuum solenoid.

The copper washers are what hold compression and combustion inside the cylinders.
The o rings just help keep dirt outta there.
If you had liquid fuel leaking from the injectors, it wasnt because of the copper washers.
Most likely becuase of leaking fuel line fittings to the injector. Or becasue of leaky return lines.
Did you get the injectors back into original places?

Make sure all your fuel line fittings are tight.
Make sure that your injector return lines are not leaking.
Check your boost hoses for tears.
Check all your vacuum lines around the turbo.
Make sure that the little sensor on the air filter lid is plugged in.

Did you get both sensors on the air filter box plugged back in?, I forgot the back plug once and it acted just like that.

He should need either with a GDE tune.

Did the new washers seal properly?

EVERY SINGLE TIME you take the injectors out, the copper washers have to be replaced. They are CRUSH WASHERS and only fit to form 1 time. If they get fouled, you have to replace them as well.

Order a whole new set of Gaskets (O-Rings) as well as about 8 crush washers, take everything out, and also make sure the old crush washers are out of the top of the intake. Then clean everything (12 gauge bore brush works best here, trust me) and replace the injectors with the new O-Rings and Crush washers on them. Be sure to follow the torque guidelines in the FSM (downloadable from Noob Guide).

11mm crow's foot socket works best on the fuel rail as well.

I have no idea how to check that?

Easy way to check is to pour some water over each injector hole, then start the engine.
If you see bubbles while its running then you know the injectors are not sealed properly.

Are you still having fuel leaks?

Do you have a boost gauge? How do you know its not making boost until 3K rpm?
If this is the case, then you either:
a. have no vacuum going to the actuator on the turbo
or
b. the vanes in the turbo are stuck

At idle, vacuum to the turbo should be high. You can pull the vacuum line off and feel if there is any vacuum there. While doing this, shine a flashlight down between the turbo and exhaust manifold to look at the vacuum actuator linkage. When you pull the vacuum line off the linkage should drop. Reconnect the vacuum line and the linkage should pull up.

I can't remember if I posted this or not but I did try cleaning the injectors with carb cleaner and some shop towels because they were all really nasty could have have caused one of the injectors to get stuck or clogged?

In what way were they really nasty?

If it was carbon around the area below the copper washer (the part that actually goes into the cylinder head) then that is normal.
If it was dirt and crud around the area above o ring, then that is normal too.
If it was gook in the area between the o ring and crush washer then that could be bad. Unless it was just stuff that fell down when you pulled the injector.
Cleaning the external surfaces of the injector with carb cleaner is fine.
Forcing some sort of solvent into the parts that should only have diesel fuel, that would be bad.

I'm almost wondering if one of my injectors is getting stuck open or closed honestly.

If you really suspect a problem with the injectors, find a local diesel injection shop who can test them for you.
But I dont see how you could have done anything to screw them up.

Honestly I keep asking myself the same thing . The only thing I can think of is that I didn't bleed the system enough and I got a air in the system.

Yeah, sounds like the vanes might have got glued in place while it was sitting. I think you should see the turbo rod (actuator rod? whatever) move about 1/2" when you pull the vacuum line while it's running. You might need the oven cleaner method. A lot of folks advise the Italian Tuneup, but if you have an old sloppy turbo, that can kill it, especially if the vanes are sticking...
You can also grab the actuator rod and feel if the vanes are sticking. It should slide up and down the 1/2" I believe. Flash and others know this better than me....