UPDATE 05' CRD 188k Bosch 7V Plugs, REPLACED W/ PICS

Silverbullet · **Posted:** Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:17 am

I found some more information out, There was a new motor installed in this CRD at 75k from dealer. I wish the car fax and records in glove box told me more, still doesn't explain the anti seize on the plugs, I'll miss the fast easy starts

Not willing to risk a failure. The car spent 75% of its life in Florida and has zero rust. Here is the parts info and where i ordered.....

FYI From http://www.idparts.com

Date Ordered: Tuesday 10 November, 2015

Products
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1 x ETECNO 7V Glow Plug Set (Liberty CRD) (etecno_gp_set) = $94.95
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Sub-Total: $94.95
United Parcel Service UPS Ground: $10.53 (I paid the extra few bucks so I can do this swap on weekend)
Total: $105.48

dirtmover · **Posted:** Thu Nov 12, 2015 11:26 am

95Z28A4 wrote:

Providing the 5 volt glow plug tip doesn't "pop" like the light bulb filament, running the 5 volt plugs at 7 volts may be the answer. If the glow plugs last 2 years, that's only $50 per year to ensure starting at 0F.

The problem is that we may not know what's really happening with these plugs until they fail and we have to replace them. Metal sheathed plugs are known to swell and can present considerable difficulty when it's time to remove them. Over voltage may be one of the conditions that exacerbates this.

Be very careful assuming that better performance is the better solution. This is exactly the mistake Chrysler made with the ceramic plugs in an effort to minimise the required pre-glow time.

IMO the best solution would be to use either of the metal options but at their design RMS voltage. At colder temperatures extend the preheat period and tolerate that extra few seconds prior to cranking just like we did "back in the day". Until then ceramics remain the best option for cold starting.

Yeti · **Posted:** Thu Nov 12, 2015 11:51 am

depends on which software version you have, if you have the latest, the 5v do not overheat, they have a different technology

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Thu Nov 12, 2015 12:24 pm

Mountainman wrote:

And try your hardest to ever so gently remove them if they are ceramic. They like to break on the way out. Don't let the tip touch the sides, if at all possible, which is really tough :2cents:

And what is the answer if one breaks on the way out? This is my next project after I get the Tahoe out of the way

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Nov 12, 2015 12:27 pm

Remove the offending cylinder's injector, and put a compressed air rubber tip down to the injector seat. Blow. The broken tip should shoot right into your hand.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Thu Nov 12, 2015 12:38 pm

geordi wrote:

Remove the offending cylinder's injector, and put a compressed air rubber tip down to the injector seat. Blow. The broken tip should shoot right into your hand.

Just like the 6.5 diesels. Only I never had that issue. heard of several people just throwing a rag over the glow plug and cranking the engine over. Most of the time, it shot right out

Thank you much

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Nov 12, 2015 2:17 pm

You can do that too - my thought was you wouldn't want the intake stroke to potentially suck it IN though - and there isn't any way to predict where in the cycle it is when you are looking at it.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Nov 12, 2015 5:18 pm

yeah, I've heard of two people pulling heads for this. I'd be more likely to shoot a hole in it before I did that though

Silverbullet · **Posted:** Sat Nov 14, 2015 3:04 pm

UPDATE! Read below, if you have the code REPLACE IT NOW, Don't wait, mine was about to break

It was a bear but I just got done replacing all 4 Bosch 7V Ceramics with new Tecnos 7V. 188k on a motor rebuilt at 75k

Cylinder 3 was NOT fun, Had to remove entire Weeks kit to remove plug
Cylinder 1,2,4 where pretty easy to get to, The cold weather wore me out. Took 1 break.
Make sure you hear the "click" when putting the plug receptacles back on

I ran down to auto zone and got a print out of all my codes:
P1267 Glow Plug 4 Control Circuit Low
P1140 Vacuum Reservior Solenoid Open Or Short (IS THIS FROM WEEKS KIT?)
P0101 MAF Sensor Signal Negitive or Positive Deviation (I unplugged it)
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input (Same as P0101????)

Hoping that after a few trips the code will go away....

Plugs 1,2,3 looked ok. 4 had a HUGE crack down the middle. Really glad I didn't wait to replace it. Funny how Dealer rebuilt the engine at 75K and installed ceramics back into the engine with anti-sieze.

Yeti · **Posted:** Sat Nov 14, 2015 3:13 pm

yes P1140 is for the FCV unplugged

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Nov 14, 2015 3:29 pm

Yep, like I said early in this chat; don't wait.

Codes can be cleared but may go away on their own after like 5 drive cycles
P1267 Glow Plug 4 Control Circuit Low - should clear
P1140 Vacuum Reservior Solenoid Open Or Short (IS THIS FROM WEEKS KIT?) - there will be an EGR code if you install the kit without an EGR delete ECU tune but I don't recall what the code is. My notes on P1140 say it likely relates to a failed flow control valve and since Weeks kit deletes the FCV there could be a relation. If you VRS has failed you would know it by lack of boost especially shortly after startup.
P0101 MAF Sensor Signal Negitive or Positive Deviation (I unplugged it) - should clear
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input (Same as P0101????) - yes and should clear

Yeti · **Posted:** Sat Nov 14, 2015 3:57 pm

for the weeks kit and the P1140 must delete the DTC from the DTC table in the ECU like is described in the ECU DIY FLASH in the tech section

undrgnd · **Joined:** Sat Mar 26, 2016 4:47 am **Posts:** 194

Are people putting a bit of an to sieze on glow plugs on their crds? If yes, then which one?

Thanks

Chris

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

Having run both the 5V plugs and 7V I can promise you that the 5V plugs work better. The reprogramming jeep did for the 5V plugs had to take into consideration the extra glow time needed to get them hot, while the 7V plugs work just good enough to keep the glow plug light off. The glow times are still the same as the old ceramic plugs, which don't work well for steel plugs. When i had my engine built i had 7 volt plugs in it. By the middle of winter I was having hard times getting it started once it got into the single digits. I switched over to the 5 volt plugs and its been significantly better; even at 30F i can tell a huge difference in how it starts. At the time of replacement the 7V plugs were ~8 months old.

cephurs · **Joined:** Sun Mar 06, 2016 5:43 pm **Posts:** 4

Thanks for the thread, replaced my stock 7v bosch with idparts 7v metal. This fixed my p1267 dtc and likely a bunch of work had the #4 tip came apart any more.

UPDATE 05' CRD 188k Bosch 7V Plugs, REPLACED W/ PICS

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