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 Post subject: Re: pulled the CRD out and put it back- started then big pro
PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2015 1:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2015 3:50 pm
Posts: 407
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
toolmanmike wrote:
GOOD NEWS all! Original poster here. I FINALLY got the truck all back together. I bought 8 new bolts from the dealer- by the way- I did not torque them correctly when I did the rear main seal the first time. (weird torque directions- 37 ft. lbs. then loosen and torque to 19 ft. lbs. THEN tighten an additional 60 degrees) Anyway, All 8 were shorn off. I replaced them and put the engine back in AGAIN. Started right up and ran well. I am so excited!

Just hope the thing keeps going for awhile. Im tired of working on it. Thanks to all here with the advise and encouragement.

toolman


Outstanding! I'm glad you stuck with it and found the root cause of your failure (seemingly non-reusable bolts). I'll keep that in mind if I ever have to pull my VM out for more engine work. Thanks for posting your solution.

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2016 Ram 2500 4x4, 6.7 Cummins, 68RFE, Crew Cab
1995 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, 5.9 Cummins, 47RH, Reg Cab
2005 Liberty CRD,fixed the rockers and a couple more things,GDE Hot tune,Weeks Stage 1 and 2 EGR delete,Hot Diesel solutions Tstat assembly(wonderful heat!), ARP studs, OME 1.5" lift.....thanks Seth!


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 Post subject: Re: pulled the CRD out and put it back- started then big pro
PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2015 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:57 pm
Posts: 2654
Location: Boise, Idaho
:rockon: Glad it wasn't something terrible!

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete


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 Post subject: Re: pulled the CRD out and put it back- started then big pro
PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2015 6:22 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:12 am
Posts: 231
Location: Alaska
Great to hear you're up and running!

Hate the new age torque to an angle bolt tightening BS. I can understand the "torque-loosen-torque-loosen-final torque" game for Subaru/VW/BMW where heads, cylinders, and block are seperate pieces that need to square up neatly before final torque but a flexplate? Torquing to an angle seems like guessing instead of precision.

Hope you have many trouble free miles.


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