P0234 being addressed ...

Infinite_Karma · **Posted:** Sat Nov 21, 2015 11:59 pm

Well, I thought I had fixed the CEL P0234 on my rig back when I installed the Week's Kit2, but that little CEL reared it's ugly head again about a week ago, so I took the time to do some minor investigation, tweaking, and cleaning ...

The CODE:
P0234

Replaced the cracked CCV hose (probably would be causing a P0299 not a P0234):

Found some indentations/melt-spots on the vacuum lines leading out of the actuator (no leaks found, but keeping my brain on them):

Found an accumulation of oil residue on the underside of the Turbo housing, near the connection point of the Inlet Hose (which, coincidentally, the clamp was loose to the touch!):

Time to check out the Turbo's actuator, vanes, and spindle:

Actuator moved fine, but vanes seemed a likely culprit, had about a 1/2 inch movement when unbolted (couldn't see clearly enough to tell if moved while put back) - probably need to R&R the turbo:

Spindle / compressor wheel and rod is solid and perfect movement (spindle rotated/moved cleanly without and left/right movement or in/out movement):

So I put everything back together, making sure to clean hose mounting surfaces and tighten down the hose clamps.

I installed my Provent 200 as well (http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=83541), and so that might help removing this CELL as well. One can hope right?

We'll see if P0234 returns...

Yeti · **Posted:** Sun Nov 22, 2015 5:53 am

probably...........but I really sure.................. is the electric actuator with a paper filter that is become slow , the 403 is the egr electric connector or something related , but with GDE tune and weeks kit , probably you must ask to Keith to delete the DTC in the table

you can find the solenoid at Idparts

the oil soak down the turbo can be a cracked air hose or not tighten ....or you do much WOT

ps: can be a faulty CCV membrane

Infinite_Karma · **Posted:** Sun Nov 22, 2015 6:23 pm

Thanks Yeti.

I do realize that the P0403 CEL occurred after the Week's Kit2 (with all the changes to the pressure in the system and did replace the MAP, CCV, and other items), and I do have the SMPS MPPS ECU Tuning Cable Driver Install Guide, and will do that work soon.

I'll check out the electric actuator with the paper filter on IDParts.com, and contact Keith at GDE about the delete process for the DTC in the table. after I've done everything I can do on this side.

The oil soak was likely an accumulation due to the prior intake hose being ripped, and when I replaced it, I didn't tighten it enough. Now it's tight, so it should be good to go.

We'll see.

Thanks again bud.

Infinite_Karma · **Posted:** Mon Nov 23, 2015 3:55 pm

Well the P0234 CEL didn't come back under normal driving circumstances, so I decided to give it a push to see if it would return. This morning, after dropping the kids off at school, I floored it, driving up a mild hill, starting at about 20 MPH and accelerating to 60 MPH, watching the RPMs get up to about 4k, but no higher (between shifts).

And as soon as I let off on the accelerator and slowed down, the P0234 CEL returned.

Hmmmm ... So does that sound like the vacuum assembly or turbo related?

Maybe I should replace the vacuum solenoid / actuator / filter assembly? Replace the lines?

None of the above or all of the above, or maybe somewhere in between.

Just for clarification on trouble shooting, the P0234 CEL appeared immediately after the Week's kit2 install. Maybe when I pulled the pipe out from behind the engine block, I loosened aa vacuum hose?

Infinite_Karma · **Posted:** Mon Nov 23, 2015 4:43 pm

Yeti wrote:

ps: can be a faulty CCV membrane

Coincidentally, I did replace the old CCV with a new one, at the same time that I did the Week's Kit2 install, so maybe that is the culprit?:
Angle 1 =

Angle 2 =

Angle 3 =

... so maybe the new CCV is faulty?

I'll have to test this theory and try putting the old CCV back in and see what happens.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Nov 23, 2015 6:10 pm

Might be the MAP sensor reading to high??? :idea:

May be worth a try to replace it and see what happens... :wink:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 23, 2015 7:35 pm

I dont see how the CCV could be related to a overboost code but I gess its not impossible.

The MAP sensor is what senses boost pressure.
The ECU uses the signal from the MAP sensor to determine the proper amount of boost from the turbo.
A vacuum solenoid is modulated by the ECU to control vacuum to the turbo actuator and adjust boost.
If boost pressure gets too high for too long, the ECU will throw a overboost code.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Mon Nov 23, 2015 8:45 pm

I was using torque to check some boost things and noticed that sitting still with the engine off, my MAP reads 880 mbar of pressure while my phones internal sensor is telling me right around 800 mbar. 800 mbar is the correct value for where I live at 6500 ft above sea level. If you have torque pro app for android, use it to compare the two readings.

Infinite_Karma · **Posted:** Mon Nov 23, 2015 10:02 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Might be the MAP sensor reading to high??? :idea:

May be worth a try to replace it and see what happens... :wink:

Yep! I thought the same thing, but I actually (also) replaced the MAP when I did the Week's Kit Install (back in the beginning of November):

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=169&t=78238&p=880024&hilit=MAP#p880024

Maybe it was a bad MAP sensor?

I have my old one, which was possibly throwing the P0299 CEL?

I'll trade them out and see what happens.

:juggle:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Nov 23, 2015 10:18 pm

Need a new one, Google this GM part number, it is a direct replacement for our Jeep CRD Mopar one and cost is less than $20 bucks...
GM Part No. 55206797, 3 Bar MAP Sensor
Several sellers have it listed on line:
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oe-gm/55206797

I always keep a spare just in case..... :wink:

Yeti · **Posted:** Tue Nov 24, 2015 11:52 am

I'm not sure , but he probably have the GM sensor and not the OM sensor , I have noticed some difference in millibar reading on altitude , BTW the problem now is that they have the overboost code .........sticky vane or actuator and without the EGR the boost can't decrease

Infinite_Karma · **Posted:** Tue Nov 24, 2015 5:12 pm

Yep, I did buy a GM MAP Sensor (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Y9HL7E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00), new, that I replaced my old one with, and so I figured it would NOT be the sensor since it was new. BUT, who knows, it might be off by a little bit (slight difference in the millibar altitude), so I'll order another one and see if that fixes it. I'll also order a new Vacuum Solenoid, Vacuum Solenoid Paper Filter, and maybe some new Vacuum Solenoid hoses...

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Nov 29, 2015 10:43 am

Yeti wrote:

I have noticed some difference in millibar reading on altitude

FYI, Comparison of the two different MAP sensors which do have a slight difference in offset numbers:
BOSCH 0 281 002 845
or
GM 55206797
0 281 002 845 3 bar (11 kPa @ 0.25V , 307 kPa @ 4.75V)

Bosch 3.0 Bar T-Map Sensor / 0 281 002 845
Scalar A - 279.5555528
Scalar B - 0.23529412
Offset - 5.44444 (repeating)

using 65.7777 as the first multiplier, 1 as the second multiplier, and 5.4444 as the offset/additive.
= 11.0 kPa at 0.25v, 300.4219 kPa at 4.65v, and 306.9997 kPa at 4.75v
__________________
BOSCH 0 281 002 437
0 281 002 437 3 bar (20 kPa @ 0.4V , 300 kPa @ 4.65V)

Bosch 3.0 Bar T-Map Sensor / 0 281 002 437
Scalar A - 65.88
Scalar B - 1
Offset - 6.353

Map sensor:
OEM- KJ 05140331AA = BOSCH 0 281 002 437
Replacement- 68031593AA - BOSCH 0 281 002 845 - GM part 55206797
Bosch 0281002437 (old no.) or 0281002845 (new no.) Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Nov 29, 2015 10:57 am

The functional difference between the DCJ OEM MAP sensor and the Bosch/GM, much cheaper replacement, was thoroughly discussed back in the Summer of 2013, see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=74785&p=795846&hilit=55206797#p795846 . At that time MrMopar64 confirmed that the Bosch/GM sensor was a perfectly good replacement for the somewhat pricier DCJ OEM sensor.

Infinite_Karma · **Posted:** Mon Nov 30, 2015 3:11 pm

Well bummer, it doesn't look like it was the MAP Sensor.

I installed (yet another) brand new MAP sensor, and still got the P0234 CEL while accelerating uphill (and not a lot of accelerating mind you, only from 30mph to 50mph, RPMs didn't even go above 3500 before the CEL popped on again).

So!

Once the brand new Vacuum Solenoid (http://www.idparts.com/vacuum-solenoid-liberty-crd-p-3211.html) and Vacuum Air Filter (http://www.idparts.com/turbocharger-vacuum-modulator-filter-p-4630.html) arrive, I'll install them and see if that was the problem.

Wish em luck.

Yeti · **Posted:** Mon Nov 30, 2015 5:59 pm

at 99 % it is the problem

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

Yeti wrote:

at 99 % it is the problem

Agreed.

Infinite_Karma · **Posted:** Thu Dec 03, 2015 3:42 pm

Ok so! ... the IDParts box arrived yesterday with my new Vacuum Solenoid and Vacuum Air Filter.

I installed them immediately after work, and then drove the kids to school this morning. I cleared the codes and drove off toward the office.

After getting away from traffic, up that long straight uphill road to the campus, I put the petal to the metal to test it out.

... AND I GOT THE P0234 AGAIN! ... within about 5 seconds, going from 30 MPH to 50 MPH (keeping it at around 3800 RPMs)...

:furious:

Soooooooooooo now I guess I'll check the turbo vanes again?

Not sure what to try next.

:cry:

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Are you getting a full 1/2 inch or slightly more of vane control rod movement when you apply full vacuum to the turbo actuator and then let off the pressure. It almost sounds like the vanes are sticking and not fully opening when commanded.

Infinite_Karma · **Posted:** Thu Dec 03, 2015 7:59 pm

I guess I don't know how to "apply full vacuum to the turbo actuator and then let off the pressure", while it's all taken apart. How should I do this?

When I checked the Turbo Actuator movement last time (less than two weeks ago), there was good movement up and down (with my hand). I estimated that it looked like about a 1/2 inch of vertical up-and-down while manually moving it. I didn't try to watch it at idle, because I wasn't sure I should start-it-up while I had that CAC hoses off, the Coolant reservoir disconnected, the Airbox & Turbo Inlet hose off, and the CCV hose removed.

Is it okay to start it and let it idle with all that stuff disconnected?

Here is the image I documented:
Actuator/vanes seemed good, and had about a 1/2 inch movement:

I'm not sure how to go about "applying full vacuum to the turbo actuator and then let off the pressure" and see the actuator move.

Any and all suggestions and directions are welcomed.

:wink:

P0234 being addressed ...

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