I have a pretty good idea for the answer to this question, but here goes anyway. I'm at 100k miles. Just did ARP studs. Initially I was thinking inspect the rockers, and if they look good, reinstall. This was due to thinking that they are an intended failure point, and if they haven't failed, I have not encountered the issue to cause it. However, even though mine do not appear to be worn, and certainly not broken, do I take the chance? After looking around, I see where some people have had the bearings fail, which is a completely different issue, and I really can't tell how far along I am in that wear cycle. Thoughts?

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JBA 4" lift, IRO Tri-link w/ wwdiesel bracket, JBA sliders, 235/85-16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, Mercedes Benz forged ultralight wheels, Weeks stage 1 and 2, Weeks lift pump and harness, Weeks battery tray and AGM battery, GDE tune, Suncoast TC, updated front pump, HDS 001 T-stat, ARP studs, Front and rear Detroit/Eaton Truetrac LSD.

replace them ,, rockers ,, asap

Yeah if you're already in there and your egr has been active for any miles I would replace them.

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

Its your call.
If you think your rockers are still in good shape go ahead and reuse them.

When I pulled my head off at 160,000 miles, my rockers were still in good condition.
The only reason I installed new ones was because I had already purchased them.
When I took my engine apart I fully expected to find my rockers damaged or execessively worn. But that was not the case.

And if you havent already, disable, block, or remove your EGR valve.
Doing so will help ensure a long life for your engine.
And use 5w-40 synthetic oil.

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U.S. Army Retired

Rockers are not an "intended" failure point except if the timing goes bad in which case they break so failure is obvious. That said like anything with a bearing they can fail "never" or right out of the box or somewhere in between. Failure other than from the timing issue is going to be due to 1) use of improper oil, 2) excessively long oil/filter change intervals (6K miles IMHO is acceptable beyond that oil is cheap but rockers are not), 3) excessive soot in oil (see oil change intervals and advantages of GDE tunes). Sorry to not be able to give clear advice but the best I can say is if you used proper oil, changed per above, and had a GDE tune early reuse the rockers. Otherwise replace them and do the "good" things I mentioned to make your new rockers last.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Maybe Geordi can chime in and comment on whether he's gone this far, and only inspected rockers? And if so, any bad results?

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JBA 4" lift, IRO Tri-link w/ wwdiesel bracket, JBA sliders, 235/85-16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, Mercedes Benz forged ultralight wheels, Weeks stage 1 and 2, Weeks lift pump and harness, Weeks battery tray and AGM battery, GDE tune, Suncoast TC, updated front pump, HDS 001 T-stat, ARP studs, Front and rear Detroit/Eaton Truetrac LSD.

If you have a new one to compare to your old ones, you can get an idea of how much play they should have. But, for about $350, unless they are like new, you might as well change them if you plan on running the CRD for the long haul. I have seen good sets of rockers, and then by checking each one carefully, I have found just a couple that were much worse than the rest. I'd be interested to hear if all of yours have the same amount of play in them. I twist the roller back and forth, and slide it side to side. You might find one or two that feel considerable different than the rest, and I would make sure to discard them.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Most of the members that I have worked on have opted to replace the rockers during the stud job under the theory that a new bearing is better than a worn bearing. I have only found 2 rockers (not two sets - just two.) out of many many engines now that the bearings were obviously damaged, and both were in the same engine. I have found several engines where the lifters were crushed or broke apart on removal though.

The labor to do this job is a pain, which is why most people seem to opt for the replacements. Only a couple have elected to keep what they had, and that is usually with a mitigating reason such as the head had been opened previously.

If you are doing the labor yourself, then perhaps you wouldn't mind the time to go back in at some point in the future if a used rocker fails out. For anyone paying me to do the labor, I have to advise that the smart play is to replace them - since the difference in the whole job is $360 for rockers now, or ALL of the $1600 in labor again later, plus $360.

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Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
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