06 CRD Turbo #2 HELP

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

Hello again everyone! I used to have an account here but could not remember my login info so I started a new account.

I have a 2006 Liberty 2.8L CRD with just under 90k miles

Before 50k miles the turbo went and needed to be replaced along with lots of other parts the dealership claimed it needed. It had a check engine light on from the day it came home from the dealership. Because of the continuing issues from date of purchase and because of the idiots at that dealership we brought it to a different dealership to have the repairs done. Everything was covered under warranty.

The jeep was fine until this past year. It started bogging down frequently and loosing power. This turned out to be the fuel filter. I changed that and it was great for about 3 months until I noticed oil leaking from, you guessed it, the turbo... Again!!! Arrgghh!

So the jeep has been sitting in the drive way for months now waiting to be fixed, sold, blown up, burned Etc.

Mean while my 2005 WK 4.7L gas hog was in need of many repairs including major transmission work. Since that had 140k on it and needed over $3000 and we owed $3500 on it we decided to trade it in. I bought myself a 2015 Hyundai SantaFe Sport 2.0 Turbo. Man I love that car. Comfortable, all the bells and whistles I wish my WK had and great on gas and power!

Now I have a large car payment on this so ditching the Liberty is not an option. I had always wanted to get back in to wheeling as I've had many lifted and modified XJ Cherokees and this Hyundai is my first ever non jeep I've owned.

My wife and I agreed that if I can fix the liberty myself for reasonable cost I can trade with her and I can lightly modify the Liberty to have some weekend fun with my brother in law who is going to lift his '14 Wrangler Sahara.

I plan to do a 2-3" lift, Cooper Discoverer AT3s or STTs and 16" Moab wheels like my XJ had. Hopefully I won't need too many supporting mods to maintain this setup. I'm not planning on big lift again (my XJ was 5.5" and 35" tires) I still want to maintain decent MPGs and handling just look and perform a little better.

I've done some research and I can get a turbo from Rock Auto (I love rock auto) for $750 after I return the core. I think I can handle the repair and my bro in law is a Volvo tech who is willing to help me. My concern is what else might be wrong and how do I stop this from happening again????

Also what can I do to get more MPG out of this little chimney? I've been told to just unplug the egr and deal with a CEL, or buy a tuner.

I also want to eventually I will go to my exhaust shop and do a more free flowing exhaust and nice 3" exhaust tip. This thing rolls coal better then my friends 7.3L super duty.

Thanks for any help in advance!

rankom · **Posted:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 7:42 pm

welcome back . its so easy on this forum to get all the answers we have so many good guys here and there expertise you just need to sit down and read what we do , free of charge!

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 7:48 pm

The jeep has 90k on it and is currently needing it's 3rd turbo? Back up and figure out what the reason it's going through turbos. (Wrong oil, not allowing proper cool down time)

With that said, the whole thing is debatable on wether these turbos can be rebuilt. Do your research and decide from there. I sure as doo doo wouldn't trust any doe Richard rock auto gets to rebuild it. Your best option is a new garrett and stay away from cheap China junk as well.

P.S. I do still have a used garrett turbo with absolutely no shaft play either way with 80k miles on it for sale.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 8:02 pm

You say you are seeing an oil leak... Where exactly? In the mouth of the turbo? Exterior underneath? On the ground?

FYI: Something else is not correct about your CRD if you are able to "roll coal" because that means that your engine is not getting the proper air / fuel mix. You have a boost leak somewhere. At 90k stock, I'd bet money that your EGR is stuck open (they are garbage) and your stock boost hoses have holes in them.

You are also WAY overdue on a timing belt, mileage no longer matters. They are all nearly twice their allowed ages if they haven't been changed yet.

If you need mechanical assistance, I can do the work in your driveway and will leave you with a perfectly running CRD, rather than the typical stealership experience of leaving with a broken truck at least 4-5 times while they spend your money throwing parts at it.

I've worked on over 50 of these - every one is on the road right now. Most stealers have only ever seen 2-3.

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

This will be turbo #2. The first turbo and egr was replaced in 2008-09 with under 50k miles on it. I've been told the turbo oil leak is due to blow by and needs a Kit or catch can of some kind to stop the from happening again.

I am planning on fixing this thing myself. I do not have money or trust to pay a dealership or mechanic to do the work.

Yes this Jeep will smoke out the road if I stomp on the throttle to the floor.

If the egr is stuck open that would also explain when it is not very fuel efficient. Any hoses with leaks I'll have to look in to.

The oil is seeping from the turbo itself. Where on the turbo I don't know but it leave a 2-4" puddle in the drive way at night. It has been parked for 3 months while I wait for my tax refund to pay for the parts.

The turbo from Rock Auto is a Rotomaster reman unit. Thanks for the warning I won't buy it.

The timing belt is original and I've never done one before so I will have to figure that out as well.

It also has the dreaded CRD whoomp whoomp whoomp sound from 20-50mph.

Where are you located? I'm in New Hampshire. I've owned jeeps my whole life but this thing is not 4.0L LOL!

Thanks everyone for you help! I'm already slightly relieved though only slightly.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 8:36 pm

Ok... This will probably make you both very happy and very annoyed at the same time.

If you can drive your CRD at more than 30mph and it doesn't take 30 seconds to get to 30mph... You don't need a turbo. If that describes your experiences before the previous turbo replacements, I'm terribly sorry that you have been screwed by such clueless dealers.

The oil is most likely coming directly from the CCV puck on the top of the engine and just drooling down the front of the turbo. The intake hose from the airbox is most likely completely rotted out underneath, and the oil HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE TURBO. There are no seals to "blow by" in the turbo, the oil in the front of the turbo came from the CCV, and is completely normal and harmless. Further, the reason so much oil is collecting there is because you most likely are overfilling the oil, and excess is just sprayed around under the valve cover until it is consumed by the turbo suction and collects in that intake hose to rot it out.

When you do an oil change, the correct amount is 6.4 quarts if you use the stock size filter, or exactly 7 quarts if you use the oversized Mobil 1 M1-301 filter or an equivalent. Adding more to the "full" mark on the stick is massively overfilling the engine because the dipstick is too short. The transmission dipstick meanwhile is too long, and hits the bottom of the pan - which means that the "full" mark on that stick is actually UNDER-FULL and can cause strange operation of the transmission and accelerated wear. Add a quart of fluid and see if the transmission issues resolve. If not, add another and check again. The system is enormous and actually runs better when slightly overfilled. Mark the new level on the stick with a scratch of some sort, this will be the new "full" mark.

Above all - always ask here and describe your symptoms before buying any parts or trusting any mechanic that hasn't ever seen one of these. There isn't a problem to be found that we haven't already solved here.

FYI: If you ask at a dealership or any other shop if they are experienced at a given vehicle, the answer will always be a resounding yes - they of course have a certified mechanic to work on your car! They of course have a certified mechanic who can change the water pump on your 67 VW Beetle! (except that is an air cooled engine)

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

Ok thanks for the info. Once the temperature get above freezing at the end of the week I will pull off the engine cover and see if I can find the CCV hose and see if that is the source of the oil. The jeep was originally my fathers in laws and he owned it when the first turbo was replaced. The oil change has ALWAYS been done by one of 2 dealerships.

I will also check that 0-30 in 30 seconds too. Though I'm positive it will do it in much less then 30 seconds.

See the thread "oil leak inspection" this all is very similar to what I "think" I am seeing and experiencing.

I will also check the EGR and hoses and see how those are doing.

I really hope you are right because that most likely means that I just need a timing belt and possibly an egr valve and what ever is causing this dreaded whoomp whoomp whoomp noise. After reading the sticky on that I seems like it's drive line, possibly wheel bearings or u joints etc. No real official answer for that issue.

Any more info on the timing belt swap would be appreciated too.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 9:33 pm

There is a thread in here "the correct way to change the timing belt". Read that and it should get ya plenty of info. After re reading I'm gonna guess your intake to turbo hose is rotted and that's the source of oil and lack of boost or "rolling coal". Which for these is just evidence of them not running at full effeciency.

Geordi is the well know trusted traveling mechanic in here. He does whole top end jobs in anyone's driveway

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

Thank you!

I just gave that a read and changing the timing belt does NOT sound like something I'm comfortable doing myself. :ALONE:

You guys are great! Much better the JF or Naxja Etc forums!

naturist · **Posted:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 10:34 pm

I agree with Geordi, an oil leak to the outside of the engine (as opposed to into the intake manifold, thus INSIDE the engine) does not signify needing a new turbo.

I had such a leak, that fairly quickly blossomed into a blown oil line TO the turbo. This required replacing the oil line, not the turbo itself. There is also an oil line FROM the turbo back to the engine, which might also leak. And neither calls for a new turbo, unless it is run so long with no/little oil getting to the turbo that it wrecks the bearings.

That being said, I also agree that an 06 with 90,000 miles needs a new timing belt, and while you are at it, water pump and all tensioners and idlers.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:47 pm

FYI: I get up to NH no problem, I spent a summer on Lake Winnipesaukee. I'd be happy to quote you a timing belt job and a good-going-over of your CRD on a schedule of your convenience. If you are in a hurry though, I can do it while there is still that white crap on the ground, but it isn't optimal. Are you nearby any interstates / things that would be cleared quickly in the event of storms?

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

Thank for the offer, I need to wait until I get my tax refund in February and see what finances will allow. It's going to sit till then, though I'm going to do some investigating once the weather warms up.

I am about 10 minutes from interstate 93 and route 101 from interstate 95. Roads and highways are usually kept clear during winter storms.

What would you charge to do the timing belt and a good once over in the spring? Obviously any additional repairs needed besides the timing belt would be more.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jan 05, 2016 12:57 am

I can supply the parts or you can order them yourself - same difference to me, other than I know exactly what to order. Everything comes from IDparts so the parts are all excellent quality and OEM or (most cases) much better than OEM. A timing belt job with water pump is $1300 with parts, plus travel.

Going over everything else and evaluating it for you isn't usually something I charge for, but I can set you up with a mild tune for $100 that will at least offer some extra smiles and prepare your CRD for elimination of the EGR with an elbow kit - If your CRD is still stock I would also highly suggest glow plugs unless you know that the original ceramics have definitely been removed and replaced with metal jacketed plugs. The elbow kit is $225 and the plugs are $100. Neither of those needs to be done at any particular point, but can certainly be installed as part of the timing job for another $150.

More aggressive preventative measures are the ARP studs - the job of installing those overlaps with everything else, so the complete package seems like a big bite, but includes all the parts and labor for the following: ARP studs, rockers (optional $360 saved if eliminated), elbow kit, glow plugs, timing belt kit, water pump, coolant bypass, and engine tune for $3400 plus the travel. If you are having any coolant loss or want to prevent it - that is what the ARP studs do, and saves the cost and hassle of replacing the head gasket and then having to do the studs anyway to prevent a recurrence.

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

Ok that's good to start with. Unfortunately at that cost even just the timing belt is out of my budget for now and I'm pretty sure my wife will say to sell or trade the jeep or drive it till something bad happens. It is technically hers. Wanna buy a KJ CRD? If I had the $3400 plus travel I would happily have you do the work as I much prefer to help out talented individuals vs a dealership or con artist mechanic.

I'll go over this with my wife and see what we are going to do. First things first I need to make sure the turbo is not leaking oil but the CCV and see if I can locate this mystery moan/groan noise.

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

Update, both good and bad.

I crawled under the jeep to find that my oil leak that is causing my drive way to have puddles is coming directly from the oil filter. I think the dealership double gasketed the oil filter and I'm calling them tomorrow to make them fix the issue.

I also discovered that one of the lower oil hoses I'm assuming the return line is in fact leaking.

Next I noticed that the large rubber hose that attaches to the top of the turbo is covered in gooey oil and appears to be slightly leaking all over the front portion of the turbo making the turbo look wet with oil.

I took it for a drive since it has been sitting for a while and it can safely go 0-30mph much faster then 30 seconds.

The Bad

While driving it I lightly depressed the brake pedal to wear off the surface rust and when I did this the RPMs went from 2k rpm down to 1k rpm and it felt like it was going to quit. Happens every time I do this? Why?

Other then these issues it seems to be fine.

I'll upload pictures after I upload them to my photobucket.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2016 5:59 pm

06NHLibertyCRD wrote:

Update, both good and bad.

I crawled under the jeep to find that my oil leak that is causing my drive way to have puddles is coming directly from the oil filter. I think the dealership double gasketed the oil filter and I'm calling them tomorrow to make them fix the issue.

I also discovered that one of the lower oil hoses I'm assuming the return line is in fact leaking.

Next I noticed that the large rubber hose that attaches to the top of the turbo is covered in gooey oil and appears to be slightly leaking all over the front portion of the turbo making the turbo look wet with oil.

I took it for a drive since it has been sitting for a while and it can safely go 0-30mph much faster then 30 seconds.

The Bad

While driving it I lightly depressed the brake pedal to wear off the surface rust and when I did this the RPMs went from 2k rpm down to 1k rpm and it felt like it was going to quit. Happens every time I do this? Why?

Other then these issues it seems to be fine.

I'll upload pictures after I upload them to my photobucket.

This part makes me think it's the intake to turbo hose. They are know to rot at the bottom by the turbo and can't tell until you take it off. Plus it sounds like your cac tubes are junk. Time for some samcos or Id parts has their own set for cheaper

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

Do you have any links to these parts? I have no idea what any of this is. Lol

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2016 6:20 pm

http://www.idparts.com/liberty-crd-sili ... -4804.html

http://www.idparts.com/turbocharger-inl ... -3804.html

Check these out and see if that is what you need

06NHLibertyCRD · **Joined:** Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:48 am **Posts:** 34

Yup! Those look like them!

What about the hoses under the turbo going to the block? I think I need them too.

Here are my picture of my findings

It's pretty obvious it's leaking from the oil filter, and they broke a skid plate bolt and crammed a rag in between it and the cross member to stop the rattling!!!

The under side of the turbo near the motor mount

Turbo inlet

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2016 6:53 pm

I'd change those and then clean the oil up around the turbo oil return line. Then check it again after running it awhile. Typically they seep oil out the rubber plug at the block. There is no pressure so if that is all it is doing I would leave it. They are kinda a pain to change and really unnecessary if it's just weeping out from the block

http://www.idparts.com/turbocharger-oil ... -3208.html

http://www.idparts.com/turbocharger-oil ... -3915.html

06 CRD Turbo #2 HELP

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