Need advice

cbr600rx7 · **Joined:** Mon Dec 28, 2015 7:32 pm **Posts:** 4

Hey everyone one I am new to the CRD but not new to diesels. My last truck was a 08 6.7 cummins with the normal upgrades. I have also had a few other IDI and DI diesels over the years. Recently I found a very clean 06 Liberty with 250,000 miles on her at a dealership. It's been for sale for a few weeks now and seems to be in very good condition. After some negotiations I can pick it up for $2800. Is it worth it or should I run away.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 28, 2015 8:37 pm

Is it a sport or limited? Any mods been done?(rockers, studs, etc) record of last timing belt job. If they can't provide that info then offer even lower

cbr600rx7 · **Joined:** Mon Dec 28, 2015 7:32 pm **Posts:** 4

No I don't think they have any paper work on it or any records. It has cloth seats and doesn't look like it has fog lights so I would guess sport. And from what I can tell it's all stock.

olypopper · **Posted:** Mon Dec 28, 2015 8:54 pm

For that kind of money, I'd pick it up.

Just plan on doing rockers, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, fuel filter assembly and in tank pump. After that, drive it like you stole it.

If your pocket book allows, GDE tune that sucker.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 28, 2015 9:07 pm

olypopper wrote:

For that kind of money, I'd pick it up.

Just plan on doing rockers, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, fuel filter assembly and in tank pump. After that, drive it like you stole it.

If your pocket book allows, GDE tune that sucker.

All the above, plus:
Inspect the turbo, boost hoses, and intercooler
Disable, block, or delete the EGR valve
Inspect all suspension components, especially front ball joints
And when you replace the rockers, clean the carbon out of the intake manifold and install ARP head studs

cbr600rx7 · **Joined:** Mon Dec 28, 2015 7:32 pm **Posts:** 4

I have been reading a few articles online about the Eco tunes and EGR delete. Sounds like a lot of guys enjoy it. How hard are the timing belts to change on the 2.8. I have done a head job on a 4.7 GC and a head on a 4.0 but of course that's about as simple as it gets.

rankom · **Posted:** Mon Dec 28, 2015 10:21 pm

first you need to get it for a good deal , reason is to save money on parts you will need after , i mean a lot of parts , after that we can help with any advice and fixes

cbr600rx7 · **Joined:** Mon Dec 28, 2015 7:32 pm **Posts:** 4

I don't know. Kind of leaning away from it more now that I see the price of rockers. I can do the labor myself but time is money. I don't like the idea of spending $800 in parts just on the rockers, water pump, timing belt, and gaskets as soon as I buy a rig just to make it reliable. Plus add EGR delete, tune, and head studs and I will probably have close to $2000 in a rig that's probably worth 3k on a good day. I would love to have one but maybe I should keep looking.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Dec 28, 2015 11:49 pm

The normal list of reliability mods that I do the labor on, with parts, works out to $3300 usually plus travel. That would be rockers, studs, elbow kit, coolant bypass, glow plugs, timing belt kit with water pump, fan shroud mod... And if the owner wants to do a thermostat or silicone hoses or Hayden fan clutch... There really isn't much else to mod on these.

But each one that I have done this on, is still on the road today. Bear that in mind when thinking about the value - it isn't all about resale, it is also about utility value.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 29, 2015 9:34 am

cbr600rx7 wrote:

I don't know. Kind of leaning away from it more now that I see the price of rockers. I can do the labor myself but time is money. I don't like the idea of spending $800 in parts just on the rockers, water pump, timing belt, and gaskets as soon as I buy a rig just to make it reliable. Plus add EGR delete, tune, and head studs and I will probably have close to $2000 in a rig that's probably worth 3k on a good day. I would love to have one but maybe I should keep looking.

There is a chance that it may not need new rockers.
Its all about maintenance history. Without detailed records you have to assume the worst. Especially on a Jeep with 250K miles.

Its worth $3000 as is. Put the parts in and do the work yourself and it may be worth $5000.
People buy jeeps because they like what they can do. Not because they are reliable, low maintenance vehicles.

nivram · **Joined:** Fri Dec 10, 2010 1:18 pm **Posts:** 17

When you work for your self you can't count your labor. This is a hobby, and true love of a libby is hard to match. Get as many records as possible, inspect it thoroughly, go from there. Negotiate a better price if they can't get rid of it, you buying it is better than it going to the auction. The dealerships don't like to work on these VM motors. Most shops turn you away also. Thats why they charge so much to work on them. They even fib about diagnoses to.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Tue Dec 29, 2015 2:53 pm

A non runner would be worth $1K-$2K so if this one is running and you can test drive it then it's probably worth the $2800.

At this price whatever you put into it in parts you would be able to get back out.

If you're not happy to spend some time working on it then stay away. This is very much a hands on vehicle.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Dec 29, 2015 8:33 pm

Negotiation is not about who does the work - that work is always done at market rates, whether you choose to "pay yourself" or pay someone else, the job is the same.

Your time is valuable, NEVER forget that. Knowing what the proper value is for your time is only half the battle, the other half is getting that value from someone else.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 29, 2015 10:39 pm

Where's this jeep located? :lol:

And no Jim I don't need help :banghead:

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Dec 30, 2015 12:26 pm

jws84_02 wrote:

Where's this jeep located? :lol:

And no Jim I don't need help :banghead:

The first step in recovery is admitting the problem... :goink:

Revscaramanga · **Joined:** Sat Jan 02, 2016 11:15 am **Posts:** 4

Hello, Good day all, I have been visiting this site for some time now, but I just registered today because I have a question. I just sold one of my Jeep Liberty CRD to a friend in Port Washington NY a couple of days ago and realized that he is having some problems and might need a lift pump installed. I have been reading about reliable CRD mechanics by state, but I cannot find one around the Mid (Port Washington) NY area, can anyone help, Please.
Thanks,
Pedro

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jan 02, 2016 1:47 pm

Have him email me - hit the button down at the bottom of this post - and tell me what's going on. I come up to NY frequently, so maybe I can help on the next trip.

Revscaramanga · **Joined:** Sat Jan 02, 2016 11:15 am **Posts:** 4

Actually he is not versed with diesel trucks, but I am, from what he explained to me , it has hard starting and smokes( it had never smoked before). I suspects that it has air in fuel problem, because I encountered it before but it was repaired. I believe an in tank fuel pump and a check of the fuel line for leaks may be required. I will communicate with him and get back, but if you have a chance of making it to NY asap, I will appreciate it.
Thanks again for getting back.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jan 02, 2016 11:13 pm

Well, I will be coming up to the city in about another 10 days or so, probably less. The downside is I wasn't planning to bring any of my tools with me. Has the timing belt been replaced? Air in fuel causes poor running and rough running... But not smoke. Smoke is from too much fuel and not enough air, OR improper timing OR failure of the rockers. Boost air can also be leaking out into the exhaust if the EGR is stuck open. It doesn't really seal well anyway, and the EGR is a crappy device that fails a lot.

So the list of potential problem sources from cheapest to most expensive to fix:
Boost leak from one of the boost hoses that have become porous - $200 or so for the hoses if that is the source of the boost leak.
Upgraded elbow kit to eliminate the EGR - $225 plus an engine tune to eliminate the idiot light - $50 or $500
Timing kit and water pump - $400 (REALLY needed if it hasn't been replaced, mileage no longer matters!) plus install ($900) if you want me to do the work, but the advantage is I come to you and the CRD will be running again same day.
Rocker set... This is the big one. Rockers / elbow kit / head studs / glow plugs / timing kit / water pump / EGR removal... The labor overlaps, so it is only the extra parts for the whole job. $3300 parts and labor together, and it is a solid 10 hour day to do it all.

Revscaramanga · **Joined:** Sat Jan 02, 2016 11:15 am **Posts:** 4

Hello,
Thanks a lot for the information, I have used this Jeep for the past year and everything was working well, and was under warranty for up to 6 months ago, the former owner told me that everything was done per manufacturer's recommendation up to 155K miles , anyway you will check for yourself, but what I will like you to prepare for and even get parts (if required) available is to:
1) check/replace the fuel line from the tank to the fuel(water separator) filter.
2) Install an in-tank fuel pump (I saw one on ebay for $75) if you don't have one. The former owner had electrical connections already in-place. You don't have to lift the seats.
3) Boost leak.
Note: Check Engine light is not on.
If you find anything else , that is alright, but prepare for the listed issues that I suspect.
Thanks a lot and Happy New year.

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