I assume I am not the only one who has broken the tiny hose barb for the injector fuel return hose on the fuel return block. I actually went and spent the $109 at Chrysler and got a new one only to break the new one. There is no way I am spending another $109 a second time. There must be a better way. Yes I know, I've seen the HomeDepot solution posted here. Not being negative on that solution, but here's another way... and all for $18.

You need to 1/8 tube ID x 1/16NPT hose barb, preferably out of black nylon (we want this to look professional). I got mine from US Plastic for $0.68 (plus $8shipping - maybe order yourself a few, shipping cost is flat rate). It is item number 64751. Here's the link -
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.a ... &catid=551


Now you need a 1/16NPT tap. I got mine from Summit Racing for $4 (plus $5 shipping). It is item number ZEX-NS6584. Here is the link -
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/zex-n ... AsfL8P8HAQ

Now, saw (or grind) the end of the fuel block to a near flat condition. Remove the remainder of the old tiny barb. Then using a letter "C" drill bit, carefully drill the end of the fuel block adequate to run the tap all the way in. Once you drill through the outer layer of plastic you will see that the "C" drill is only a few thousandths larger than the molded inner diameter of the fuel block. Now carefully tap the block, being certain you reverse the tap out of the block for every few turns in. This insures you keep the plastic cutting debris from gumming up the tap and breaking the block. Then blow out the debris and screw in the fitting.

Next is a little 2-part epoxy to insure the fitting stays put and will not leak. I only put a very small amount around the intersection of the fitting to the block. This way if I should ever break the barb off again all I have to do is carefully pick off the epoxy, screw out the broken barb and replace it.

And last step (important!). You need to cross drill the feed from the fuel rail. The barb screws in far enough that it partially restricts the passage. I used a #7 drill bit. Before you start drilling, mark the exact depth you need to drill with a piece of tape on the bit. You don’t want to drill too far, come out the other side and destroy the block.

That’s all there is too it. New fuel block for $18.

I will post pics in a few mins.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Nicely done.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

well thats why this forum is so unique we have engineers to lol

That is a very clean solution. Nice job. I have broken a few of those over the years.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
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I echo the above sentiments... well done!!