Back again, and thanks for this forum.
My daughter had some issues and has traded me back my CRD, and I am loving it again...however, now with 164k, there is a faint diesel odor and diesel leak puddle on the ground in the morning. Cannot find it by casual looking and today she quit while driving in town, and I knew it was air in the line, and pumped it up and got it going again.
However, I now live in Greenville, SC and cannot take it to Greensboro, NC where I have gotten good, but expensive help (don't mind paying if it is right the first time).
So are there any recommendations for a mechanic, and I am thinking of rebuilding the fuel line/lift pump(add) and changing to a Rancor or other type of heated fuel filter(mine is 2nd gen, but they never attached the wiring, I noticed). I also need new glow plugs and every now and then it gets stuck in 3rd gear....
But I get about 30mpg going back and forth to work (23 miles each way) and just love sitting up high again (vs Audi A4 or Lexus ES300 other options).
Thanks again, and happy/healthy new year to all.
Jim Wright

This might be of use: https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/installers/

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Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon 2.8L Duramax

South Carolina. Should be pretty close to geordi

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

I'd see if the bottom of the fuel filter plug is wet, and give the sensor a good firm tightening if it is. This solved that problem for me just yesterday. About a 1/4 turn is probably all it needs if that's where it's leaking.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Thanks for all the tips!
Found a great guy down in Piedmont, near my job, who took the time to find the leak at the o ring for injector #3.
Now I have a heater hose leak, blew out this morning, and Brett at Tire and Lube, has found a buddy that does diesel work, and is going to put in a new set of o rings and intake gasket, while replacing the heater return hose that is below the intake, and according to him, only accessible, after the intake is removed.
I am going to get it to him next week, and am not driving it until then.
Will post his name and results along with the cost.
If y'all have any suggestions for work to be done while there, please pass it on.
Again, thanks for this great forum.
Regards,
Jim Wright
2005 CRD with 164k, GDE eco tune...stock from there out...and love that torque!
2003 Lexus ES300 82k
2004 Audi A4 Quattro, stock, but going to boost to 225 with TT hardware soon.

Comments:
1. there is no leak at the "O" ring on the injector although that may be where fuel appears. The "O" ring is just a dust/debris cover; what's leaking is the copper crush washer on the injector below the "O" ring. You can get both the "O" ring and crush washer from idparts (http://www.idparts.com/injector-seal-ri ... -3284.html) although you might just as well get them from a dealer so shipping costs don't eat you up.
2. I do not understand "Now I have a heater hose leak, blew out this morning, and Brett at Tire and Lube, has found a buddy that does diesel work, and is going to put in a new set of o rings and intake gasket, while replacing the heater return hose that is below the intake, and according to him, only accessible, after the intake is removed." I assume you mean the heater hose blew out but what's this about a "new set of o rings and intake gasket" and intake removal??? There are no "O" rings associated with the heater hose and anyone who says the intake needs to come off to replace a heater hose is full on BS and blind (just pop the engine cover and you can see the heater hose routing).

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I think he must be talking about the hose that feeds the EGR cooler.
Not exactly a heater hose but its the same size and material.

Either way, you dont have to remove the intake manifold to fix it. But it sure would make it easier although I wouldnt want to remove the timing belt just for the sake of repairing a hose.
Instead, remove the intake elbow and use some long pliers to remove that leaky bit of hose. Still not an easy job but waaay better than removing the timing belt and intake manifold.

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U.S. Army Retired

Could be but even then the intake manifold does not have to come off nor does the intake elbow. See image 3 at viewtopic.php?f=98&t=74594 . Without going out an looking at my CRD those hoses should be accessible once the fuel filter head is moved out of the way.

That said if it is the EGR hose then if it was mine I'd just bypass the EGR cooler entirely by routing the hose from the block to the pipe over the top of the engine. His signature on the most recent post indicates the CRD has a GED EcoTune and Keith at GDE says with the tune you don't need the EGR cooler to be functional.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks guys.
Perfect. Looked at it and seems like the guys here were doing a good "guess and by golly" routine
The best advise is to get in contact with Geordi.
I have a long list, from your other post, and would like to get him on this punch list.

Food for thought. I have been running around town, no more than 20 miles at a time, and the Lib has reached a point of stability with the coolant/water(mostly). The temp gauge slowly creeps to mid point and stays there. If I add more water/coolant, it leaks out to a low point and stops, telling me the leak, which I cannot find, but is at the rear passenger side of the engine, towards the back. I just drove to work this morning, and again, there was about an inch in the overflow tank and when I added more, it started to pour out the leak area, but made it 23 miles to work without incident....what a vehicle.

Again, thanks for the pics, I really want to eliminate the tangle of EGR mess, since I have a GDE Eco tune...
Jim

If its pouring out liquid as you are trying to fill it, that leak should be pretty easy to find.
Nearly all the coolant hoses are on the passenger side. The rear passenger side area includes hoses the run from the engine to the heater core, the heater core itself, and hoses that connect to the coolant tank.

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U.S. Army Retired