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 Post subject: Sump replacement, do I need a gasket or can you use sealant?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 12:57 pm 
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Just fixing a PO problem, bought the Jeep knowing it had a slight drip from the sump plug, seems it has been over tightened and stripped the sump plug threads. Have a replacement sump (will repair to old & keep it for a spare) but I am struggling to get hold of the sump gasket in the UK, can you use a liquid RTV type sealant or do you have to use the correct gasket?

thanks

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 Post subject: Re: Sump replacement, do I need a gasket or can you use seal
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 1:17 pm 
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I'd be surprised if there was an actual gasket used from the factory.
Black Permatex RTV is what I always use when no gasket is available.

But why go through all that work when you can just tap the aluminum pan for a larger size and install an appropriate sized Fumoto drain valve?

Have you already removed the old pan?
If so, did you have to pull the engine to do it?

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 Post subject: Re: Sump replacement, do I need a gasket or can you use seal
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 1:29 pm 
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Not installing a drain valve, if used correctly the bolt is fine. Haven't looked to tap it yet, but I would have to go & find a suitable bolt and tap & I already have a spare sump. IF it is an engine out job, its getting tapped :mrgreen:

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Steve Wright

http://www.offroading.net
2002 4.7 v8 WG, +3" IRO short arm lift, daily drive
1999 4litre WG, +4.5" IRO long arm lift
2007 export KJ Cherokee 2.8 Ltd, Family wagon
Previous- 8 XJ's, an MJ, a WJ, a TJ & 2 KJ's


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 Post subject: Re: Sump replacement, do I need a gasket or can you use seal
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 1:54 pm 
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By sump I presume you mean oil pan (UK vs American English). If so:
1. the OEM plug originally had a gasket/copper washer and if reinstalled without that it will leak and likely strip the pan threads.
2. as far as I know the pan cannot be removed without lifting the engine or disassembly of some of the front suspension
3. RTV will do in a pinch for a while but the best fix is viewtopic.php?f=5&t=66245&p=728122&hilit=thread*+drain#p728122

If you wish you can replace the "new" drain plug with an appropriate Fumoto valve just be sure to tie down the drain lever with something like a zip tie.;

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 Post subject: Re: Sump replacement, do I need a gasket or can you use seal
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 2:07 pm 
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Its getting re tapped then, don't have the time to swap the oil pan/sump right now. Really not keen on a on/off valve in the sump though, but also not keen on re tapping the threads and having to undo them each oil change, hmmm

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Steve Wright

http://www.offroading.net
2002 4.7 v8 WG, +3" IRO short arm lift, daily drive
1999 4litre WG, +4.5" IRO long arm lift
2007 export KJ Cherokee 2.8 Ltd, Family wagon
Previous- 8 XJ's, an MJ, a WJ, a TJ & 2 KJ's


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 Post subject: Re: Sump replacement, do I need a gasket or can you use seal
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 2:47 pm 
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geordi's repair that I linked to IIRC gives you steel threads in the aluminum pan so they should not strip out in the future if you go with a regular bolt/washer. On the other hand once you install a fumoto valve you can forget about messing with a drain bolt as draining is as easy as flipping a lever. That said I do/did worry about accidental lever flip hence mine is tied down with a plastic zip tie as cheap insurance. To drain just cut the zip tie/flip the lever - to close flip the lever and put on a new zip tie.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs


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 Post subject: Re: Sump replacement, do I need a gasket or can you use seal
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 3:00 pm 
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steve@offroading.net wrote:
Its getting re tapped then, don't have the time to swap the oil pan/sump right now. Really not keen on a on/off valve in the sump though, but also not keen on re tapping the threads and having to undo them each oil change, hmmm


That collar repair that I used was a permanent fix, and the collar stays in place. If you use an O-ring for sealing instead of a crush washer, it also doesn't need to be gorilla tightened which protects the new threads and the collar from moving.

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