I'm happy to be back in the CRD club again, though I definitely have my work cut out for me. A good price generally comes with some elbow grease. This board has been integral to my repairs thus far, so a big thank you for all the help. My current issue doesn't seem to be addressed yet, so I thought a new topic was appropriate.

I am having an intermittent stalling issue. When traveling down the road, the car will "bing" and the lightening bolt will come on for a split second. At the same moment, the car loses power. I say moment, because that is all the longer it lasts. The car seems to restart and continue. I believe the momentum from the transmission "bump starts" it. When the stall happens at a low speed, or when the car isn't in motion, it is a full stall, and requires a regular restart.

When I first purchased the vehicle, I did have a CPS code, so I started there, since it seemed like a very common problem. It did not resolve the issue.

Not that it is related, but I also replaced the alternator and battery. I thought but it worth mentioning as cars can do funny things in a low voltage situation, and that can be ruled out.

I'm away from my home, and code reader, so I can't reset the CEL for the CPS. There were some glow plug codes last time I had it read, but I attributed them to some attempted starts with a weak battery. What is odd, the local garage code reader can't read the codes for some reason. Is this common with the CRD?

Thanks in advance for the assistance.


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Could be air in fuel. Try pumping it up and bleeding air out. Original fuel filter head lets air in.

Haven't heard of code readers not working.

I just bled the air out, but no luck. I re-bled after it died, and while I could pump the primer, no air came out upon cracking the valve. Only fuel.

The code reading issue concerns me. The mechanic couldn't do it. Autozone couldn't do it with the first attempt, but did with another type of reader. I wonder if it's a main computer issue.


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Most generic code scanners cannot read all the codes on the CRD.
A dodge/jeep service department should have the tool and read all codes.

My ELM327 adapter that I use with the TorquePro app on my Android tablet works pretty good at reading all the engine codes. But it cannot read any TCM or BCM codes.

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U.S. Army Retired

There are some good aftermarket readers that read ours, but most of your garden variety readers at the Auto Zone, O'Reilly, whatever will not read our OBD-II or interface with our vehicles for some reason.

A lot of folks have the ELM327, and a lot of others have the Green Diesel programmer/reader. I would recommend getting the tune and the latter, but if you want to opt for the more wallet friendly option, then definitely get something you can just sync up to the blue tooth in your phone.

Let us know what codes you do see, if you see any.

Also, check the wiring harness where it enters the firewall, they're known to fray there, and you might be getting an intermittent short, causing your issue.

If you haven't yet, upgrade your fuel filter head assembly, whether it's the issue or not, it'll reduce air-in-fuel issues as well as some other bad possibilities.

_________________
Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

It may be your crank sensor, they are notorious for going bad at this age and not setting any codes.

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

I'm happy to hear it isn't uncommon for some readers not to work. I guess I'll have to try my reader when I get home, and possibly get an elm327. I'll also check out the firewall, and keep an eye on the filter head. I'll see how quickly air develops.

I also think I'm going to get a chip remap tool and run one of the tunes from this site. It's much more affordable.

I know it isn't the crank sensor, as I just changed it yesterday.




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Never completely trust a new part. I've bought way to many Bad new parts over the years. More so in the last 10 years

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 142,000 miles New engine 2-2014, Green Eco tune, FS2500 bypass filter Weeks elbow, European Torque converter, brakes front UCA's wheel bearing and front hubs. Front hitch OEM lift pump
98 K2500 Suburban 6.5td
96 K1500 " 6.5td
95 2 door Tahoe 6.5td
94 K3500 cc srw 5 speed 6.5td
91 International Model 6 speed spicer 4700

Now that I'm back home, I was able to use my code reader to pull codes from the computer. It pulled a dozen codes, one being the CAMSHAFT position sensor. I know those don't typically go, but this vehicle has 210k on it, so I wouldn't be surprised. The other codes are related to the glow plugs, which wouldn't cause it to kill. I'll replace them with the non-ceramic version once I determine the voltage. The other codes were related to low voltage, which doesn't surprise me with the bad alternator/battery.

I reset the codes, just to see what would come back. The glow plug codes came back, as well as a 0725. Looking around on the site, it seems that this can be cause when the rpm drops too low, which makes sense with the issue I'm having. What is odd, is the camshaft code didn't come back. Even so, based on bad cam position sensor symptoms, it sounds like that may be the culprit. It could be a short somewhere, but I would rather gamble with $40 and possibly win, than trace wires all day.

Update-It was not the Cam sensor. I also don't believe it to be a short either, as I gave all the wires a really good jiggle.

I pulled codes again-using a Actron CP9125.
1267, 1265 and 1263, are all glow plug codes. I wasn't surprised. I took it for a ride, and the random stalling/self restart happened a few times. I stopped immediately after a few of the occasions, and bled the fuel. There was air the first time, but not subsequent times. I pulled codes again. The same glow plug codes, plus 0299. I read this was a low boost pressure code, but power wasn't an issue. I reset the codes, and since the engine was warm, it didn't activate the GP circuit, so I started with a fully clean slate. The issue still persisted, but did not activate the CEL after several stalls and restarts.

To me, since I had no CEL, I suspect it is fuel related. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

does it smoke when that happens ? if one of the injectors sticking (over fuel hydraulic lock) can you do injectors return flow cup test ? this is just a thought because you say it makes a "BING" noise can be heard maybe just like little over fuel in one of the cylinders? or if the nose is similar like when you start the diesel engine with starting fluid ,

I'm sure experts will give you their opinion on GP tip and injector tip damages

No smoke. The bing I refer to is the cars warning sound, low fuel, low washer, tpms, etc. The engine itself just throttles back momentarily. No crunchy or diesel pinging sounds.

I've ordered a fuel filter and airtex lift pump. I had planned these anyway. We'll see if they help.


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good , yes lift pump is good for our jeeps ,good luck

Update:

In preparation for the filter change, I added seafoam to about 1/4 tank of fuel. I'm well aware, this is pretty stout mix, but I wanted a higher concentration to really clean up the system. I drove about 25 miles, topped off the tank, and added power service. I drove another 2 hours, and it didn't stall once. My guess is that there was some moisture in the fuel/filter, and the seafoam suspended it, cleaning out the water. I ran it again this morning for about 20 minutes, and, once again, no stalling.

I still plan to add the lift pump, and obviously change the filter, but I believe I have solved the issue. It would have been nice to have discovered before changing the sensors, but they had thrown codes, and didn't break the bank. I live in the sticks, and this vehicle is going to see lots of logging roads. Having new sensors, along with some backups, isn't a bad thing in my neck of the woods.

It would seem it was coincidence. The issue is back, and hasn't changed, despite the new fuel filter. I'm hoping the lift pump helps.


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I have had two cases of my 2002 Export CRD "Bining" on the open road and grinding to a halt.

The first was caused by the charge voltage going up to +17 volts at which time the ECM throws its hands up and shuts down the engine.

This turned out to be caused by several wiring problems in the harness up front after a front-right collission....some wire would short to ground or to other wires in the harness. When for example I turned the front wipers ON...the voltage would rapidly rise to 17 volts and the engine would power down. No codes were posted....I put my voltmeter into the front cigar lighter or aux power socket so I could monitor the voltage. In the end I had to replace about 6 wires completely and replace my lead acid battery which had boiled dry by this constant over-charging.

The other time I had this problem of grinding to a halt was due to a clogged fuel filter.

_________________
2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Lift pump didn't do it. It seems to stall less, but I don't know. I'm tempted to take it in, but I worry since these aren't common vehicles.


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did you perform injector test (return flow) ?

I have not. Is that the clear tubing thing?


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