No start after new glow plugs

patracy · **Joined:** Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:50 pm **Posts:** 115

Couple of weeks ago the libby's #2 glow plug failed. So I bought a set from idparts. The Etecno 7v ones. Got them swapped, but it absolutely will not start now. I had some air in the fuel system, but I've primed it out. (Had the return line loose) I loosened the line from the rail and confirmed fuel drizzled out when starting. I can crank long on it, but there's no change. I smelled a light diesel smell from the exhaust after cranking. I did get a P1202 code, but I think that's because of me cranking on it too long. Of course I'm outside the return window because I just got around to installing them. Do you think it's the new plugs? Prior to this, the libby started fine. Was just trying to correct the CEL and figured I'd replace all the plugs.

patracy · **Joined:** Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:50 pm **Posts:** 115

UPDATE!

Please disreguard any negativity of idparts in my last post. The plugs are fine. The driver was the problem!

I dug around into the P1202 error. Seems that's a common one here. In my case, apparently I had bumped a connector somewhere causing my trouble. I'm not sure which one it was, but it was either all the injector plugs, the rail relief valve, rail pressure guage, MAP gauge, or one of the various connectors on the power puck.

Anyhow she started instantly. Maybe tomorrow I'll go for a drive to check her out. (Battery on charge)

Moral of the story, when you do something and it doesn't work. CHECK EVERYTHING YOU TOUCHED.

BlueLghtning · **Posted:** Tue Jan 26, 2016 9:25 pm

Glad you got it working Drew.

I'm still getting used to mine, but so far all has been well!

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 276

patracy wrote:

UPDATE!

Please disreguard any negativity of idparts in my last post. The plugs are fine. The driver was the problem!

I dug around into the P1202 error. Seems that's a common one here. In my case, apparently I had bumped a connector somewhere causing my trouble. I'm not sure which one it was, but it was either all the injector plugs, the rail relief valve, rail pressure guage, MAP gauge, or one of the various connectors on the power puck.

Anyhow she started instantly. Maybe tomorrow I'll go for a drive to check her out. (Battery on charge)

Moral of the story, when you do something and it doesn't work. CHECK EVERYTHING YOU TOUCHED.

I am about to replace my GPs. Can anyone tell me what to be aware of. Are the old ceramic plugs fragile and therefore do I need to use extreme caution in removing them? Any lessons learned? Anything to be aware of in GP replacements? Thoughts?

Do we use a specific torque? Special tools?

I do have Weeks so have removed my EGR, FCV, and associated plumbing so should be a little easier.

Thanks

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jan 27, 2016 2:36 pm

If you have the Weeks kit installed you will need to remove, IIRC, the rear alternator bracket to get to #1; #2 should be accessible, #3 pop off the Weeks elbow (I've not installed mine but wonder if #3 is accessible by just removing the silicone tube); and #4 requires moving the fuel filter head. I'd do them one at a time so you don't lose track of the wiring. The ceramics are not "fragile" but you should be careful to pull them straight out once unscrewed as they won't tolerate bending. NOTE if a tip is broken you can tell if it's an old break by looking at the break surface - sooty looking is old and the piece passed thru your engine harmlessly - shiny is a new break and I'd pull and injector (get new copper crush washer and "O" ring) and check the cylinder with a bore scope for the broken piece).

No special tools just ratchet and appropriate size socket. I imagine there is a torque value somewhere but just run them down snug with a bit of a twick to get them good and tight will be fine (no godzilla as you are screwing steel into aluminum) being careful not to cross thread. Some anti-sieze might be in order.

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 276

papaindigo wrote:

If you have the Weeks kit installed you will need to remove, IIRC, the rear alternator bracket to get to #1; #2 should be accessible, #3 pop off the Weeks elbow (I've not installed mine but wonder if #3 is accessible by just removing the silicone tube); and #4 requires moving the fuel filter head. I'd do them one at a time so you don't lose track of the wiring. The ceramics are not "fragile" but you should be careful to pull them straight out once unscrewed as they won't tolerate bending. NOTE if a tip is broken you can tell if it's an old break by looking at the break surface - sooty looking is old and the piece passed thru your engine harmlessly - shiny is a new break and I'd pull and injector (get new copper crush washer and "O" ring) and check the cylinder with a bore scope for the broken piece).

No special tools just ratchet and appropriate size socket. I imagine there is a torque value somewhere but just run them down snug with a bit of a twick to get them good and tight will be fine (no godzilla as you are screwing steel into aluminum) being careful not to cross thread. Some anti-sieze might be in order.

Excellent...Thanks, Pap. My OEM fuel head just blew through the heating element connector so I filled with JBweld to get on the road and will install the new OEM replacement head soon. I thought that since I have the fuel head off I would go ahead and deal with replacing the GPs. So..your input is great.

I was also wondering about the anti-seize and agree that some is in order. Okay...sounds like it is just straight forward labor then though I do not relish removing the weeks elbow....

t0rquey · **Posted:** Wed Jan 27, 2016 10:28 pm

I just installed the Weeks kit earlier this month along with some Etechnos. I would much rather only have to loosen two t-bolts to yank the elbow than to have to deal with the nightmare that was pulling the FCV and stock elbow.

No start after new glow plugs

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