UPDATE!

Please disreguard any negativity of idparts in my last post. The plugs are fine. The driver was the problem!

I dug around into the P1202 error. Seems that's a common one here. In my case, apparently I had bumped a connector somewhere causing my trouble. I'm not sure which one it was, but it was either all the injector plugs, the rail relief valve, rail pressure guage, MAP gauge, or one of the various connectors on the power puck.

Anyhow she started instantly. Maybe tomorrow I'll go for a drive to check her out. (Battery on charge)

Moral of the story, when you do something and it doesn't work. CHECK EVERYTHING YOU TOUCHED.

If you have the Weeks kit installed you will need to remove, IIRC, the rear alternator bracket to get to #1; #2 should be accessible, #3 pop off the Weeks elbow (I've not installed mine but wonder if #3 is accessible by just removing the silicone tube); and #4 requires moving the fuel filter head. I'd do them one at a time so you don't lose track of the wiring. The ceramics are not "fragile" but you should be careful to pull them straight out once unscrewed as they won't tolerate bending. NOTE if a tip is broken you can tell if it's an old break by looking at the break surface - sooty looking is old and the piece passed thru your engine harmlessly - shiny is a new break and I'd pull and injector (get new copper crush washer and "O" ring) and check the cylinder with a bore scope for the broken piece).

No special tools just ratchet and appropriate size socket. I imagine there is a torque value somewhere but just run them down snug with a bit of a twick to get them good and tight will be fine (no godzilla as you are screwing steel into aluminum) being careful not to cross thread. Some anti-sieze might be in order.