Hello! Recently bought a 06 KJ CRD. Pretty low miles 86,000 miles. It has been on my wish list for quite some time now and finally bit the bullet. I Have a list and some questions for you guys. I have been perusing this forum for about a month or so now.

My list of future (next week or two)
- Elephant hose into a drainable set up
- Timing belt kit (ID parts kit)
-glow plugs if needed (need to see the color of the ring)
- Sasquatch weeks 1-2 kit
- GDE ecm and tcm tune (sad I missed the sale last month)
- Thermostat mod (kapalczynski) Once I start the timing belt I will take the thermostat to work and coworker is going to build it for me. As much as I want a Model 001 it is hard to spend that money yet maybe if this doesn't go as planned.
- Full Fluid service and Fumoto valve. larger Amsoil filter and Amsoil oil threw out.
- Fan and Fan clutch up grade like WWDiesel did.

Some questions I have. To the people that do tow thing with there Liberty. What do you to and what is the weight?

I am going to flush the coolant systems since I am not sure it has been done before. I know that you are supposed to you HOAT coolant. Does anyone know if Cat ELC coolant works the same or would be better. I work for Cat and can get it for cheap. It is Extended life, not silica coolant. I have searched coolant topic on here and there is not a lot on different option to use.

I would post some pictures but I am at work.

welcome here at this place we have guys that knows this wicked CRD machine I'm sure you will like them and their advice , my opinion first on the list wood be (in tank lift pump) to add on your list,CAT red coolant is very good in my opinion my be because i got lot of training at TOROMONT CAT 15 - 20 years ago , favourite engines ,, lets say 3406B 425 hp (OLD school )

-as long as it is HOAT (not OAT) coolant, it should be good.
-I've towed up to 8,000 pounds, and it was a 'going 45 mph downhill' kind of situation. With a stabilizer bar it should be pretty stable up to about 7000 pounds. Comfortable at 5000 lbs. Just my experience with an OME HD lift.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

In my opinion, if you are going to install the Weeks kit, then there really is no need to do the elephant hose mod. The elephant hose mod was developed to keep the oil vapor (from the crankcase vent) and soot (from the egr) from mixing and forming a crusty mess that plugs up the intake.The Weeks kit will eliminate the soot that is going into the intake. The oil vapor is actually like adding a little extra "fuel" to the combustion chamber. The only thing that it hurts is the original rubber intercooler hoses. Replace those with some good silicone hoses (very likely need replaced due to age anyhow).

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My collection of CRD's:
2005 Deep Beryl Green Pearlcoat
2006 Light Khaki Metallic Clearcoat
2006 Inferno Red Crystal Pearlcoat
2006 Midnight Blue Pearlcoat
2006 Gold Limited
2015 Black Ecodiesel
2015 Black Ecodiesel 2

Right, and there is good reason to believe that the EHM will cause the main seal to fail. I forget the thread that discusses this, but don't do the EHM. The crankcase needs a slight vacuum, it's designed that way.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

X2. Don't do the ehm. Either put on your maitenance list the intake to turbo hose every so often or make yourself a homemade one. I think flash has a thread on here where made his own

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

Also, its pretty much guaranteed that your intake is already caked to oblivion if you have more than 10,000 miles so the EHM may not buy you anything anyways.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Install a ProVent filter! There is much information on this forum on why and how to install....
If you have any questions about any issue just ask, there are many good people on here who are willing to help...

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Yeah, in colder climates it can freeze.

OP, if you don't know the history I'd do timing belt, fluids and GDE tune.
GP's - if there's no codes I'd leave them alone.
Thermostat - leave it alone unless it's failed

I tow a ~3500lb boat regularly.

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The irony is that I was never able to connect the CCV to my homemade intake intake tube. Therefore requiring me to do the EHM.

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U.S. Army Retired

[/quote]

The irony is that I was never able to connect the CCV to my homemade intake intake tube. Therefore requiring me to do the EHM.[/quote]

There's gotta be a good way. Do you have access to a welder? What I would do is weld a nut onto the metal piece then find 1/2" or whatever size it fits hose barb.

Sorry op for stealing your thread

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

I Like the big 3616, just so much power. Also would a inline pump work the same? I have read on both here and have not heard to many bad about inline. Other then some noise which does not bother me.

I can not find where it says CAT elc (red) is a HOAT so I don't think I will be using it. as much as I would like to.



I will take that off the list then,put building my own on the down the road list. I will be inspecting the intake and turbo hoses when I start the timing belt and egr stuff.



The only reason I would change the GP's are if they are ceramic, I have read how they can break off and cause some damage. I really don't want that to happen. The thermostat is broke open that is why I am replacing it. Coolant Flush and replace also.



No worries about stealing it. you should be able to weld a hose barb or a nut to the elbow and put a fitting to fit the hose size you are using. Air brake fitting would work into a welded nut set up, Kind of like an Oxygen sensor on an exhaust, but with a hose fitting in its place.

I am very pleased hearing about the towing. I plan on towing my samurai to camp sites and wheel it. Not a fan of wheeling my daily driver. did that in the past and sucks when you break things.

Also do you have to load pics to another site to post pictures on this forum?

Yes on the pics, one of the hosting sites. photobucket I think is the one most use

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

yes inline pump is good . but if you don't have the air in fuel problem leave it alone till you get it

Okay gents I have a few question.

1) what do you flush you coolant with? do you just do a water flush then refill?

2) what diff oil do you use and how much. front and rear please.

On a side note i should be sending out my ecm and tcm out tomorrow. my parts are coming in tomorrow from sasquatch and idparts. I have a new fan clutch and fan waiting for me with filter and oil in my garage.

1. I always use distilled water. I like bringing the engine up to temp but isn't necessary. Repeat each time until it is clear and appear to be just water.

2. I'd have to go out and check. I'm not certain so can't say. There are a few threads on here about it. I just fill them until they start dripping out the full hole

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

1. kind of depends. If the system has only seen HOAT antifreeze (Mopar, Xerex G-05, or Motor Craft Premium Gold) you can just drain and fill. Get one of the listed antifreezes and mix your own at 50/50 using demineralized water. If the system has anything green or "universal" you need to do a flush. I suspect a Prestone Flush 'N Fill kit will do the job, it does on Dodge Cummins, using garden hose water followed by 2 cycles of fill with demineralized water/drain/refill then do a final 50/50 system fill. NOTE DCJ botched the metric to US conversion on antifreeze in the Owner's Manual so use the metric # and Google the correct conversion. If you don't use the Prestone kit it takes like 7 fill and drain cycles to get rid on most all of the bad old antifreeze.
2. for all other fluids see your owner's manual a) top shelf in glove box or b) get a PDF version from the Jeep web site by clicking on Owner's Tab.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I am pretty sure it is the Mopar coolant still. Orange I believe the color to be. so I will just drain and fill then while I have everything a part.

I was just curious on people preference of diff oil.

HOAT coolant tends to be a very light pickish. I'd do 2 drain and refills with demineralized water, generic at grocery store, and then a 3rd fill with 50/50 HOAT/demineralized water. Remember to fill from the coolant tank with the valve at the left front corner of the radiator open, ideally turn to 4 o'clock and pull up to remove; when fluid comes out of that valve "burp" the upper radiator hose; continue fill when fluid comes out again insert valve in same alignment push down and turn to close; complete fill to ca. 1" above coolant tank midline; replace coolant tank cap; do a couple of drive cycles to operating temp; recheck coolant level on cold engine parked on level - should be dead on but may have to add a dab.

As to fluids ask 10 owners get 12+ opinions. Mine - stick with what factory recommends but remember specs change. For example OEM spec on oil was outdated by nearly a decade when Owner's manual came out. Go to http://www.api.org/Certification-Progra ... Categories and download the specs; flip to diesel section; look and most recent grade and backwards compatibility.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs