This discussion is why I will stay with my ceramic glow plugs. When they fail and I get the first fault code, I will replace them with a new set of ceramic glow plugs.

I just replaced my ceramic ones for metal tipped ones and I almost could not start my Libby the other morning. That said, this board seems to be full of alerts and alarms about the ceramic ones potentially breaking off and throwing a valve or even a piston. Has anyone actually lost a valve and piston due to a ceramic valve tip breaking???

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2005 CRD Limited
SEGR
WEEKS Kit (removed EGR, FCV),
Gen 2 Fuel Head
GDE Eco Tune
ARP studs
Etechno (7v) Glow Plugs
F37
Kap 193 thermostat
Carter Lift Pump (Modified wiring harness)
Fumoto (CRD-108)
Bypass oil filter (2 micron)
Samco
Provent
Sears P-1 Battery
Secondary 2 micron fuel filter

YES. There have been at least five different complete engine failures and another half dozen valve-and-head losses that I know about, directly related to the ceramic plugs. Don't risk it!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

The simple solution would therefore be to install the steel glow plugs, and also install a Webasto TSL17. I can get brand new, genuine TSL17s at a lower price than anyone else.

Install a TSL17, and you will never have a starting issue ever again, even if you are North of the 60th parallel. You will also never have to idle you engine to warm it up.

The risk is real enough that Chrysler went to the expense of engineering the 5V alternative. VW went one step further and recalled their vehicles with ceramic plugs. Bosch have discontinued this product. I don't believe the risk is as high as some make out but nonetheless it is a very real risk. I've seen far more CRDs scrapped due to accident than glow plug failure.

They are the best option for cold weather starting unless you've got a boat load of cash sitting around burning a hole in your pocket. It really depends how risk tolerant you are.

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

If your new GP's it's not ceramic , you should have more time from ECU 3X or use push-button separaly with ralay 4-DPDT with PWM adj voltage.

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Liberty CRD , Limited , Quebec

Glow plug ON time and voltage are entirely controlled by the ECM.
The actual voltage to the GP is 12 volts, but the ECM uses pulse width modulation to reduce the voltage to an average of 7 volts RMS (or 5 volts depending on programming).
Chrysler stopped selling the 7 volt ceramic plugs and switched to 5 volt plugs. ECM reprogramming is required to make effective use of the new 5 volt plugs.
It may be possible to run 5v plugs with 7v programming. This may cause the 5v plugs to run a little hotter and will likely reduce their life.

Full manual control of the glow plugs could be done one of two ways:
1. install european 11 volt plugs and build your own on/off timing circuit
2. use 5v or 7v plugs and build your own PWM circuit to control voltage and build a timing circuit to control ON time

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U.S. Army Retired

My full aprouval for those two choice

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Liberty CRD , Limited , Quebec

Thanks guys for all the reply. Will be working on the problem if I don't sell the jeep before. Love the jeep but need more pulling power with the travel trailer and the boat.

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06 Jeep Liberty CRD limited, GDE hot tune, Samco hoses, V6 air box mod, AFE air filter, Carter in-tank fuel pump, model 101 thermostat, EGR delete kit with glow plug, 205 000 km;

Would the rings/rockers/valves have an impact on starting in the cold too?

How could we test these parts?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Are you trying to ask if there are detrimental effects on these parts when starting the engine in cold weather, or are you asking of these parts actually have an affect on the engine's ability to start in the cold weather?

I am happy to discuss it over the phone if you wish.

Best regards,

yes compression test can be done to test the health of engine internal components ,, in this case most of us are having issues with metal GP in the way they operate . we just need to accept that

Working on my cold start issues and came across this thread. Another option people may want to try is running the 5V metal plugs at 7V. They will fail faster, but they will get hotter.

My wife's CRD starts in sub zero temps without batting an eye (and we've NEVER plugged hers in). It sometimes takes me half an hour (trying all kind of things) to get my CRD started on a cold morning, even if I've had the engine block heater plugged in for a while). Sometimes it has trouble if it's only 40 degrees outside.

I have a feeling my wife's CRD is running 5V gp's at 7V.

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06 CRD Sport (silver), factory skids, Fumoto Valve, DIY cross bars, LT245/75R16, Hayden fan HD clutch, lift pump, ProVent.

05 CRD Limited (black), factory skids, Fumoto Valve, ARP Studs, Hayden HD fan clutch, EGR delete, Seyfert CRD Stage 2, 225/70R16, EGT gauge

It would be interesting to know this about your wife's CRD. I have heard several people stating that the 5v plugs "may" die faster (but since they are metal jacketed plugs, who cares) but I have also heard some reports that the 5v plugs may also be designed to handle higher voltage for a short time... And I have NOT heard of anyone having increased failures with the 5v plugs being overvolted.

It is all confusing for me since I cannot directly test these theories out while living in the land of eternal summer.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I would like to know for sure too! We just had everything apart for timing belt and rockers, but I can't remember at the moment if they were 7v or 5v for sure. Obviously I'll check when I get a chance. Actually, I have to replace them asap, because one of them shorted out from soaking it to remove gunk before we put it back in. What's a good way to tell if the plugs are getting 7v or 5v? It's cold today, but should be warm and sunny tomorrow, so I can get under the hood (man, I love Colorado).

Also, I have seen that Etecno makes a plug that works with *both* 7v and 5v systems, but I'm not sure how that factors into the conversation (one would think they would run hotter at 7v, but I don't know for sure).

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06 CRD Sport (silver), factory skids, Fumoto Valve, DIY cross bars, LT245/75R16, Hayden fan HD clutch, lift pump, ProVent.

05 CRD Limited (black), factory skids, Fumoto Valve, ARP Studs, Hayden HD fan clutch, EGR delete, Seyfert CRD Stage 2, 225/70R16, EGT gauge

Just confirmed they are 5v. Now I just need to figure out how much juice they're getting. I can't imagine they aren't getting 7V though, with how great this thing starts in the cold, especially compared to my other one.

Now I also need to figure out how to switch the other Jeep to 7V. I know it's an ECU change, but I'm wondering if I can do it without involving the dealership.

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06 CRD Sport (silver), factory skids, Fumoto Valve, DIY cross bars, LT245/75R16, Hayden fan HD clutch, lift pump, ProVent.

05 CRD Limited (black), factory skids, Fumoto Valve, ARP Studs, Hayden HD fan clutch, EGR delete, Seyfert CRD Stage 2, 225/70R16, EGT gauge

The bosch 5v plugs were supposed to be installed along with the dealer flashing a new tune into the ECM.
If yous got that tune then the plugs are getting 5v.
If not, they are getting 7v.

I dont really think the tune matters that much. If it starts and runs then dont worry about if.

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U.S. Army Retired

It's in the tuning but I don't believe we really know how to change it with DIY tuning. Yeti seems to think it doesn't matter. Also, the plugs are not supplied with a direct 7v or 5v, it's root mean square of a wave signal. Kinda like PWM

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I've replaced one 5v gp a few weeks ago and one last winter on a supposedly 7v gde tune. They were the plugs that came on my jeep when I bought it 3.5 years/55000 miles ago and I put the gde tune on 3 years ago. So I believe one survived 2 winters and the other 3 on the 7v tune. 2 are still working.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I'm having similar issue as the OP. Won't start below 32° F. Block heater is dead. I ordered a high wattage 110V heater, but it's coming from Timbuktu, so I might have to try to replace the block heater while I'm waiting. I would like to put in a Webasto, but I don't know if I want to deal with fuel, coolant, exhaust and electrical to get it in. Ordered Sasquatch's battery tray. My battery will be dead in a few more starts based on how much cranking I need to do to get this thing to start. I have 7V etecno glow plugs.

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JBA 4" lift, IRO Tri-link w/ wwdiesel bracket, JBA sliders, 235/85-16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, Mercedes Benz forged ultralight wheels, Weeks stage 1 and 2, Weeks lift pump and harness, Weeks battery tray and AGM battery, GDE tune, Suncoast TC, updated front pump, HDS 001 T-stat, ARP studs, Front and rear Detroit/Eaton Truetrac LSD.