my e brake has stopped working. any ideas


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Do you have four wheel disc brakes?

I have a 3.7L gasser with four wheel disc brakes and the e-brakes often seize up.
I really should use it more often and it wouldn't seize.

The rear brake rotor is a "top hat" design, the e-brake shoes are inside of it.



I'll try and find a better pic of the interior


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my trail & highway ride (and occasional tow rig)
04 Liberty Sport with a 2.5" lift, ProComp 245/75R16 AT's and two Hella700FF lamps (more accessories to come)

my trail queen
95 YJ with a RE 4" lift, 33" ProComp Extreme's, M8000 Winch, Lockrite Locker up front, Super35 in the rear and 4.88 gears

Here it is



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_________________
my trail & highway ride (and occasional tow rig)
04 Liberty Sport with a 2.5" lift, ProComp 245/75R16 AT's and two Hella700FF lamps (more accessories to come)

my trail queen
95 YJ with a RE 4" lift, 33" ProComp Extreme's, M8000 Winch, Lockrite Locker up front, Super35 in the rear and 4.88 gears

I'll take a look at it thanks!


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I am really interested in this topic.

I am curious to find out if the backing plates and the pins holding the brake shoes to the backing plates have rusted to the point of causing the problems you are having. That funny little metal piece the cable is attached to that spreads the shoes apart may also be a culprit.

If these parts are the reason for the parking/emergency brake problems with the KJ Libertys, I may be interested in manufacturing heavier duty stainless steel replacement pieces. I understand that the O.E. parts must be purchased from your local stealership, and the price for them is outrageous.

FEEDBACK REQUIRED HERE... ANYONE WHO HAS EXPERIENCED EMERGENCY/PARKING BRAKE PROBLEMS ON THEIR LIBERTY LET US KNOW. WHAT WAS THE CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM, AND HOW DID YOU REPAIR IT?

I buy my replacement parts from my local NAPA shop and yes, they were a bit expensive.
There's a kit for the hardware and one for the shoes.
When I reassembled the whole thing I coated all the moving parts in Neverseize.
And the e-brake shoes require an adjustment through a slot in the backing plate.
Like we used to do with drum brake systems.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

_________________
my trail & highway ride (and occasional tow rig)
04 Liberty Sport with a 2.5" lift, ProComp 245/75R16 AT's and two Hella700FF lamps (more accessories to come)

my trail queen
95 YJ with a RE 4" lift, 33" ProComp Extreme's, M8000 Winch, Lockrite Locker up front, Super35 in the rear and 4.88 gears

Jeff, never had an issue with the big dust cover plate that covers the rotor inside, but had issues with e brake "funny" 2 part mechanism that the e brake attaches to. Those were rusted and seized together. I ended up wire brushing them on the grinder and grease them hard.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Mine have never really worked properly.

If I remember correctly, when I replaced the rear seals several years ago, at least one backing plate had sheared off from all-but-one of the factory rivets or whatever was holding them on. I'm almost 100% positive I drilled any remaining rivets out and tapped all the holes for a 1/4 20 thread, because I still have a nearly-full box of short 1/4 20 allen head bolts I picked up from my commercial fastener supplier to fix them!

After some quick sandblasting and wire wheel work, along with new shoes/hardware (and pads/rotors while I was it there), everything went back together easily enough. Yet, even with some adjustment attempts, the e-brakes were, and are, still pretty bad.

I must say, that whole job was one of the least satisfying I've ever done on the Jeep, and until the rear seals start leaking again my interest level in getting them working better is pretty low!

I understand your pain... completely.

There seems to be at least a couple of problems with this design...

1) The backing plate shearing off due to corrosion on the plate or the pins/bolts holding them in place.

2) That steel actuator thingy that spreads the brake shoes apart that thermorex was posting about... it seems to corrode up badly and seize up.

The point I am making is, these parts are not too difficult to manufacture in 316 stainless steel, (except perhaps the part thermorex is posting about... that one may be a little tricky). If I also make them more robust, the problem should go away permanently.