Quick question to get you warmed up, what is the oil capacity with the M1-301 filter? I swear I saw it mention of not having left overs, but can't find it again.


OKAY! on to the real issue. 2005 (Sport?) CRD, about 121,000 mi. It had clearly been "kept nice" before I bought it in September, but AFAIK still stock.

About a month ago I blew a tire on the highway. Due to adrenaline and stress of having to carry my spare to get aired up, I didn't notice it was a different size. This was the front left wheel, I had been driving on full time 4WD pretty much since October. I drove it home about 40 miles, mostly highway. Didn't drive it again until the day I had an appt for tires, drove about 11 miles to work, then at about 10 out of 11 on my way to get tires, my front axle locked up. I was able to get it into 2WD and have been driving that way since.

So I know I screwed it up by driving on the smaller tire (I don't recall exactly what size, but apparently the difference was shocking and not in a "you need to buy 12 tires" kind of way). The question is, what is likely broken? Front differential? Center differential? I don't know enough about how these things work. My repair is going to be a take off part for now, as I'm broke. I'll be doing it myself, as I'm broke. Actually, my brother will help since he has an '06 gasser on the "better to learn on yours than mine" plan.

I HAVE a replacement front diff since I didn't think too deep into the problem at first and just bought something. I just want ideas if this will solve it before I go taking things apart. If there's a consensus that I probably need to get a center diff (or whole transfer case), I'd rather get it now.

I can get into and out 4wd (it hangs up in part time a lot longer than usual), but there is definitely a strenuous sound when I drive on it. No more tire screeching since everything is the same size (inc the spare), but I know something is wrong.

I have or will happily get tools. What I don't have is money for "new" and "experience", or facilities. I have another car to drive if I have to leave it torn apart, but I can't take up the carport (only flat section of driveway) for too long without incurring wrath. I need to know how to diagnose what is wrong, and if there are any critical updates I should be doing to this area while I'm working on it that I haven't come across so far. I found one post with a very big picture description of what needs to happen to replace the front diff, and have cobbled together youtube of different steps that I think I can handle that part. If there's a detailed guide I missed, I'll take it.


Thanks in advance. I've been lurking since I bought the thing, and there's so much darn info on this forum I think the need to read more and more is actually stopping me from going and DOING.

Have you drained the fluid in the front diff and transfer case? This will most likely tell you where your problem lies.

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2016 Ram 2500 4x4, 6.7 Cummins, 68RFE, Crew Cab
1995 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, 5.9 Cummins, 47RH, Reg Cab
2005 Liberty CRD,fixed the rockers and a couple more things,GDE Hot tune,Weeks Stage 1 and 2 EGR delete,Hot Diesel solutions Tstat assembly(wonderful heat!), ARP studs, OME 1.5" lift.....thanks Seth!

If you drove in 4wd full time, you didn't break anything. If you drove in any other 4wd, you may have stressed the transfer case. There is no Diff lock in front or rear differentials from stock, so regarding your front Diff, I suspect you may need to replace the Diff oil. If there is any damage to the front Diff, it may be caused by lack of oil in the Diff.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

The wording of the firestone mechanic was " you fried your differential", though this was without taking anything apart. I was thinking overheating caused the sprockets to warp or something, as it moves in 4wd but sounds like something it's resisting.

I'll check fluids when I get home.

While the select trac t-case is crude AWD tech by today's standard you still need all 4 tires the same size(all within 3/32" tread depth also) and aired the same to shift it correctly.

If you happened to try and shift into full time with miss matched tires it will not go into fulltime but part time,can slip out of fulltime also(common issue on higher mileage select trac t-cases).

The diff may or may not be the only thing you damaged,you could have damaged the t-case also.

I too would suggest you take a look at your transfer case fluid. Running mismatched tires up front will create a constantly mismatched F to R drive shaft ratio and will heat up the transfer case. If you are able to drive in 2WD with out issue I think your problem is there and not in your front diff.

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05 CRD Sport - GDE EcoTune - Samcos - EGR Delete & Elbow kit - ARP Studs - Airtex E7181M

I suggest you remove the front driveshaft then try 4wd and see what happens. I also suspect the xfer case.
It's as TJK discribes. Mine even with 4 tires all the same has always since new hung going from 2wd to full time and back.

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Not sure where to go now. I changed the transfer case fluid. Old fluid was semi sweet chocolate brown. I missed the first spurt that came out with my bucket, but digging around with my magnet I found a few tiny metal shavings - I don't know how much aluminum is involved in this area. New fluid went in, and it drove and shifted into full time no problem, sounded normal driving. I shifted back and forth a couple times throughout my test drive, and at one point going back into 2wd it started making the strenuous noise again. You can feel resistance when this happens. Eventually it started running properly again, and even shifted into 4wd again driving normal.

All I can think of is maybe a fork got damaged? It looks like that's a cheap part replacement if that's the case. I haven't had the opportunity to get the drive shaft out and mess with it like that yet. Next weekend at best.

I really want to leave it in 4wd while the rain is arriving, as I HATE driving this thing 2wd when it's slick, but I just don't even know what reasonably could be wrong or could go at any time.

I was having issues shifting mine, so I looked it up in the owner's manual. The manual says that if you shift while in motion to let off the throttle twice. The t-case needs 2 separate moments where it isn't torque loaded to make the shift. If you're not moving, shift the t-case while in drive, then shift to reverse, and then back to drive. Do this for shifting into or out of 4wd (either mode) Since doing this, I haven't had any other issues.

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2005 Liberty CRD Limited
DIY Garage Remanufactured Engine with GDE Full Torque Eco Tune from mile zero.
ARP Studs
Cummins Lift Pump
Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit
DIY Rebuilt Tranny Pump
Suncoast Torque Converter
2nd Generation Fuel Head
Sears P1 Battery
Hot Diesel Solutions Thermostat

Buy better tires.

If you need 4wd for rain you got either really bad tires or lack of driving skill.Wet pavement is still considered a high traction surface.

That welcoming piece of advice solved all of my problems, THANKS!

So every 242 transfer case is different as far as I can tell. Every single guide I've found has different pictures. Mine (ours? I don't even know anymore) doesn't have the speedometer on the rear retainer. Even the parts fiche has it there; it doesn't call it out but I can see the mounting location, and mine is a bare shell. So I'm pretty worried my rebuild kit will be the wrong parts. Tomorrow i'll finish trashing the hell out of the slinger flange (which also doesn't match) and see what I can find.

Is there some special designation for the transfer case I'm missing? Most websites I've found for parts don't even acknowledge the diesel Liberty exists.

I'm sure the NV242 has gone through several revisions over the years. But most of the internals should be the same.
You may want to ask over in the Liberty 4x4 section so that the non CRD guys can offer advice.

Maybe this will help:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/np242-tutorial-764168/#/forumsite/20623/topics/764168?page=1

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U.S. Army Retired

I have an 06 Liberty CRD. I bought it used a few months ago. Generally well looked after but noticed a grinding/clicking noise in Full Time AWD. No issues in 2WD. After doing lots of research I think I've narrowed it to the CV joint of the front drive shaft. Your issue may also be with the CV joint, which seems to be a fairly straight forward repair. Even if you have to replace the whole front driveshaft.

1A Auto has some really helpful repair videos on youtube for the Jeep Liberty. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5gzaBvoMhg (CV Joint Rebuild)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJJMqhH2PzY (remove front axle)

I generally want to start fixes with the least invasive/costly repairs and then work my way out. Don't want to replace things that aren't broken if I can help it.