On our 07 KJ crd, 30mins running at 70mph and the temp gauge looks like this


rarely gets above the 10 o'clock mark, and fuel economy compared to our '03 crd is about 5MPG down.

cheers

Steve

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Steve Wright

http://www.offroading.net
2002 4.7 v8 WG, +3" IRO short arm lift, daily drive
1999 4litre WG, +4.5" IRO long arm lift
2007 export KJ Cherokee 2.8 Ltd, Family wagon
Previous- 8 XJ's, an MJ, a WJ, a TJ & 2 KJ's

Sure looks like it.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

job for the weekend. Seen the replacement thread, but how many hours to change one out, less than 2?

_________________
Steve Wright

http://www.offroading.net
2002 4.7 v8 WG, +3" IRO short arm lift, daily drive
1999 4litre WG, +4.5" IRO long arm lift
2007 export KJ Cherokee 2.8 Ltd, Family wagon
Previous- 8 XJ's, an MJ, a WJ, a TJ & 2 KJ's

Yes, most definitely.

I can help you with this problem... and it is a problem, I assure you.

You are not getting all of the power, fuel economy and reliability your CRD engine is capable of because the engine is operating at way too low a temperature. A diesel engines must run hot in order to take full advantage of its inherent efficiency over a gasoline engine.

I started a small manufacturing company to deal with this exact problem on the Liberty CRD. Here is my product...

Probably.

Only three bolts but the bottom bolt can be a pain to get to.

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U.S. Army Retired

About the only things that would likely slow you down are opening the radiator drain, and scraping off the thermostat-to-engine gasket. My product comes with complete installation instructions.

Actually there are 4 bolts. 3 where the tstat bolts to the head and 1 on top of the tstat that secures it to a "L" bracket. The lower back one in the head is impossible to see and there is a slight hump in front of the bolt that makes access difficult. I found that a 1/4" socket extension clears that hump much better than a 3/8" and reduces the possibility of cross threading the bolt in the aluminum head. Also tread all 4 bolt in before you start snugging them down. Precise torque is not needed just good and tight not godzilla.

For me getting that lower back bolt started before the others works best if you can hold it in place with the socket and extension while you move the tstat up to the head you can just see the bolt threads which helps get them in hole and started.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks for the tip, picked up a new stat housing at my local parts store for not alot, will get it done tomorrow

_________________
Steve Wright

http://www.offroading.net
2002 4.7 v8 WG, +3" IRO short arm lift, daily drive
1999 4litre WG, +4.5" IRO long arm lift
2007 export KJ Cherokee 2.8 Ltd, Family wagon
Previous- 8 XJ's, an MJ, a WJ, a TJ & 2 KJ's

I never use the rad breather when I replace thermostat. Just let it idle for a good while and keep an eye on the coolant level in the expansion reservoir, may need to add some fluid. It will burp all the air by itself.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

well that went easy About an hour all in, now runs at the right temp and doesn't leave a cloud of smoke when you floor it. Will fill it up tomorrow and see how far a tank lasts now.

_________________
Steve Wright

http://www.offroading.net
2002 4.7 v8 WG, +3" IRO short arm lift, daily drive
1999 4litre WG, +4.5" IRO long arm lift
2007 export KJ Cherokee 2.8 Ltd, Family wagon
Previous- 8 XJ's, an MJ, a WJ, a TJ & 2 KJ's