head gasket and arp studs

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

flash7210 wrote:

Quote:

With the odd coolant system in these how is everyone rerouting the coolant from them?

If your EGR valve is blocked and not functioning, you can remove the coolant lines.
What I did was, remove the crossover pipe and cut it shorter. Then connected 5/8 heater hose from the side of the head to the shortened crossover pipe.

Also, the Sasquatch stage 2 kit helps eliminate all the coolant lines of the drivers side of the engine.

The crossover pipe you are talking about is the long steel that switches to rubber and goes from the drivers side up over top the engine?

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

I have it about half way torn down. I'm taking a break. Just need to remove the injectors ex manifold, and the rear timing belt cover. I would guess in about 1-2 hours i will have the head ready to lift off. I just came in to take a break. My timing marks from my belt replacement are still there and saves me some time

Not looking forward to buying all the parts lol

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

I got the head off. after i pulled the intake i realized i didn't have a 11mm 6point in a 1/2" drive. SO i had to pick one up today before i could unbolt it.

Here is what i found

and the piston/deck shot

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon May 02, 2016 5:31 pm

most of your pics looks like the typical steam cleaned chambers that I see on them with a HG leak, but I doubt a cracked head would make it look any different. Nice to see no ceramic glow plug dents.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon May 02, 2016 11:02 pm

Looks good to me - since you have it apart, I would suggest finding a cylinder head shop to have them clean and check the head and valves before reassembly, and spray the new gasket with Copper-Kote before clamping with the ARP studs.

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

geordi wrote:

Looks good to me - since you have it apart, I would suggest finding a cylinder head shop to have them clean and check the head and valves before reassembly, and spray the new gasket with Copper-Kote before clamping with the ARP studs.

It will be dropped off hopefully tomorrow sometime. I still need to pull the exhaust manifold, and turbo off of the head. My back has been bothering me the last 2 days but i think i can get it them off and it dropped off without much effort. I'm going to drop it off at the shop that did the machine work for the pulling truck block, and the head rebuild on my tdi.

I may drop off the intake along with it and see if they can clean it also. Its not bad but i hate to bolt it to a clean head lol

geordi · **Posted:** Tue May 03, 2016 9:21 am

Make sure that they know on the valve cover, that the caps on the back of the cams are plastic and the seals are pressed-in on the front and probably not good to hot-tank either one. Ditto for the sensors, pull them yourself before sending it to them.

There are no bearings to remove in the cams themselves, just the caps and the seals and they come out after removing a snap ring. But IDparts.com doesn't carry the plastic caps for some reason so try to protect those. They aren't a pressure seal, just an oil seal, so in a pinch some RTV could be used instead if they get damaged.

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

geordi wrote:

Make sure that they know on the valve cover, that the caps on the back of the cams are plastic and the seals are pressed-in on the front and probably not good to hot-tank either one. Ditto for the sensors, pull them yourself before sending it to them.

There are no bearings to remove in the cams themselves, just the caps and the seals and they come out after removing a snap ring. But IDparts.com doesn't carry the plastic caps for some reason so try to protect those. They aren't a pressure seal, just an oil seal, so in a pinch some RTV could be used instead if they get damaged.

Thanks for the info.

head gasket and arp studs

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