head gasket and arp studs

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

Just wondering where everyone is getting their HG and studs? I'm about to tear into mine early next week and want the parts here so i can have it ready to put back together as soon as the head is given the ok at the machine shop.

I saw ID parts has a head install kit but it comes with the bolts. I really don't have a need for the bolts and would only need the HG and the other needed gaskets for the install.

I took an inspection camera to see what hole gasket i have, and actually noticed i can see it without needing to look at the cam to do so. I'm a 1 hole.

Thanks

joe_ · **Posted:** Fri Apr 15, 2016 4:43 pm

I'm not aware of any place that sells the gasket without new bolts, but the studs can be purchased here:
https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... ead-studs/

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

Thanks.

I wasn't sure how available they were. It actually appears to be a TDI part # just a double order.

Looks like i will just have to buy the kit and sell the head bolts on ebay or something.

MM53 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 15, 2016 5:04 pm

Call ID they my work with you? They are good people.

lars0247 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:09 am **Posts:** 98

Lightning Motorsports, double order of 204-4706 ARP Head Stud/Bolt Kits for $315 delivered.

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

I got all of my stuff from ID parts and threw out the head bolts. From what i found you can not get just the OEM head gasket, it comes as a set.

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

lars0247 wrote:

Lightning Motorsports, double order of 204-4706 ARP Head Stud/Bolt Kits for $315 delivered.

Awesome thanks.

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

funnyman06 wrote:

I got all of my stuff from ID parts and threw out the head bolts. From what i found you can not get just the OEM head gasket, it comes as a set.

Did you buy the head install kit that comes with the intake and other gaskets? Or just the HG and the bolt kit? I would like to take the head to be checked at the machine shop before i put it back together So i'm leaning towards buying the whole kit.

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Thu Apr 28, 2016 11:07 am

mustang_gt_350 wrote:

funnyman06 wrote:

I got all of my stuff from ID parts and threw out the head bolts. From what i found you can not get just the OEM head gasket, it comes as a set.

Did you buy the head install kit that comes with the intake and other gaskets? Or just the HG and the bolt kit? I would like to take the head to be checked at the machine shop before i put it back together So i'm leaning towards buying the whole kit.

I would not waste the money. Th ARP studs will will pull the head flat to the block anyhow. If you check it with a mechanic' straigt edge and a feeler gage and it is less than 0.020" out, I'd put the head on and crank the studs down in 4 levels of torque in the book sequence. The head WILL be flat.

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

LMWatBullRun wrote:

mustang_gt_350 wrote:

funnyman06 wrote:

I got all of my stuff from ID parts and threw out the head bolts. From what i found you can not get just the OEM head gasket, it comes as a set.

Did you buy the head install kit that comes with the intake and other gaskets? Or just the HG and the bolt kit? I would like to take the head to be checked at the machine shop before i put it back together So i'm leaning towards buying the whole kit.

I would not waste the money. Th ARP studs will will pull the head flat to the block anyhow. If you check it with a mechanic' straigt edge and a feeler gage and it is less than 0.020" out, I'd put the head on and crank the studs down in 4 levels of torque in the book sequence. The head WILL be flat.

So is that what you did with yours? The main reason i was going to take it is if i couldn't find the leak, just to make sure it wasn't cracked. Plus i don't have a straight edge.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 28, 2016 1:49 pm

mustang_gt_350 wrote:

The main reason i was going to take it is if i couldn't find the leak, just to make sure it wasn't cracked. Plus i don't have a straight edge.

If you suspect a cracked head then yes, you should take it to a machine shop.

In my case, the machine shop didn't find the cracks. I dont know why and I dont know what their test procedure was. So...

When I started taking the motor apart the second time, I removed the exhaust manifold, topped off the coolant tank, and pressurized the cooling system. I could then see water dripping out of the exhaust ports. And then I knew the head was cracked.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 28, 2016 2:11 pm

BTW,
I looked through some of your previous threads and all your symptoms were the same as mine.
1. history of unknown coolant loss
2. hard starting when cold (probably accompanied by lots of white smoke out the exhaust)
3. bubbles in the coolant tank
4. suspected head gasket leak

AND, just like me, you were using a inline thermostat thing.
Which adds to the theory that using the inline thermostat is leading to problems with the cylinder head.
As discussed here: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=84411&start=0

flman · **Posted:** Thu Apr 28, 2016 6:15 pm

flash7210 wrote:

BTW,
I looked through some of your previous threads and all your symptoms were the same as mine.
1. history of unknown coolant loss
2. hard starting when cold (probably accompanied by lots of white smoke out the exhaust)
3. bubbles in the coolant tank
4. suspected head gasket leak

AND, just like me, you were using a inline thermostat thing.
Which adds to the theory that using the inline thermostat is leading to problems with the cylinder head.
As discussed here: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=84411&start=0

Yup, I am another member of the cracked head because I used the inline tstat as well. Another testament to the HDS 001.

rankom · **Posted:** Thu Apr 28, 2016 7:38 pm

taking a cylinder head to machine shop is good insurance, they will pressure tested re re valve and seals inspect and lap all valves clean injector cups and if you have little extra money you can send injectors for testing , after this procedure you'll know it will run for a long time. reason is we seen some times valves dropping into cylinder . so i say get this insurance policy

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

flman wrote:

flash7210 wrote:

BTW,
I looked through some of your previous threads and all your symptoms were the same as mine.
1. history of unknown coolant loss
2. hard starting when cold (probably accompanied by lots of white smoke out the exhaust)
3. bubbles in the coolant tank
4. suspected head gasket leak

AND, just like me, you were using a inline thermostat thing.
Which adds to the theory that using the inline thermostat is leading to problems with the cylinder head.
As discussed here: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=84411&start=0

Yup, I am another member of the cracked head because I used the inline tstat as well. Another testament to the HDS 001.

I was loosing coolant before i put in the inline Tstat. But i wasn't aware of anyone having problems that had been running it, thanks for the link.

I think it will be coming apart starting this eve, or saturday.

I had thought after i decided it could be the head gasket that my harder starting issues started about the same time i noticed the coolant problem.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 29, 2016 8:23 am

mustang_gt_350 wrote:

flman wrote:

flash7210 wrote:

BTW,
I looked through some of your previous threads and all your symptoms were the same as mine.
1. history of unknown coolant loss
2. hard starting when cold (probably accompanied by lots of white smoke out the exhaust)
3. bubbles in the coolant tank
4. suspected head gasket leak

AND, just like me, you were using a inline thermostat thing.
Which adds to the theory that using the inline thermostat is leading to problems with the cylinder head.
As discussed here: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=84411&start=0

Yup, I am another member of the cracked head because I used the inline tstat as well. Another testament to the HDS 001.

I was loosing coolant before i put in the inline Tstat. But i wasn't aware of anyone having problems that had been running it, thanks for the link.

I think it will be coming apart starting this eve, or saturday.

I had thought after i decided it could be the head gasket that my harder starting issues started about the same time i noticed the coolant problem.

Of course, a leaking EGR cooler is another place where coolant can mysteriously escape and is very difficult to detect.
If you haven't already done something about your EGR valve, now is the perfect time.

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

[/quote]

Of course, a leaking EGR cooler is another place where coolant can mysteriously escape and is very difficult to detect.
If you haven't already done something about your EGR valve, now is the perfect time.[/quote]

I have the ports blocked with the weeks kit and the elbow installed. But i haven't unhooked the coolant lines. I would assume this isn't my problem due to the other symptoms It is showing.

With the odd coolant system in these how is everyone rerouting the coolant from them?

I really need to update my signature. I also put in a DIY intake heater from my powerstroke to try to help with the crappy winter starts. I'm axious to get it apart and see what is going on, and see if the head gasket issue is part of my starting issues. I have had a slight miss off and on on start up for a while now when its colder that goes away after a few seconds. I'm guessing after it burns out the water.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Apr 29, 2016 3:47 pm

FYI as far as I know you cannot replumb/delete the EGR coolant lines unless you have a GDE or similar tune that reduces EGR function so cooling the valve is no longer needed. Also if you live in a cold area or even if you don't I'd get rid of the EHM as 1) it dumps crankcase oily vapor straight to the road just like a 1950s car which is bad; replace with a provent or similar catch can and 2) if the end of the EHM hose freezes chances are good you can kiss your rear main seal goodbye.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 29, 2016 6:02 pm

Quote:

With the odd coolant system in these how is everyone rerouting the coolant from them?

If your EGR valve is blocked and not functioning, you can remove the coolant lines.
What I did was, remove the crossover pipe and cut it shorter. Then connected 5/8 heater hose from the side of the head to the shortened crossover pipe.

Also, the Sasquatch stage 2 kit helps eliminate all the coolant lines of the drivers side of the engine.

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

papaindigo wrote:

FYI as far as I know you cannot replumb/delete the EGR coolant lines unless you have a GDE or similar tune that reduces EGR function so cooling the valve is no longer needed. Also if you live in a cold area or even if you don't I'd get rid of the EHM as 1) it dumps crankcase oily vapor straight to the road just like a 1950s car which is bad; replace with a provent or similar catch can and 2) if the end of the EHM hose freezes chances are good you can kiss your rear main seal goodbye.

My egr mixing valve has been laying on a shelf in my garage for over 2 years now, there is no issue that it can cause.

And as far as the EHM, I have been running one of those since the 3rd day i owned the jeep, No issues with it freezing, and no issues with it ever freezing on my powerstroke that i have had for over 10 years.

head gasket and arp studs

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