New Liberty CRD owner - Oil Leaks :(

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

Hi all,

I just bought a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD from a dealer that has 91K miles (one owner). I gave it a decent visual inspection and test drive before buying it. Drove it home and left it for 3 days. Today I took it for a spin and noticed a small spot of oil on the garage floor. The dealer has a 30 day powertrain warranty which may or may not cover this (depending on what's wrong) but in the mean time I want to do some homework. Any "typically suspected spots" to check on these vehicles I should check first?

I don't usually buy used vehicles, but this one looked as clean as I've ever seen for a 11 year old vehicle. I'm pretty bummed.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 10:31 am

Easiest is to take it to the dealer and have them check where it leaks.

Or raise the jeep and go underneath and see where can the oil or fluid comes from. Possible spots: transmission lines, all way to the cooler in front where they mount in the cooler. Oil from turbo, or from boost hoses. Oil from drain plug in the pan. Could be the power steering pressure hose, which should leak transmission fluid. Get the manuals from the noob guide sticky and look at the engine pictures to get familiar where the turbo is, the oil lines for turbo, the transmission cooler, etc. You may also have a leak in the intercooler or radiator. Pretty much you'll chase a leak like on every other vehicle, nothing fancy about crd. Just get a flashlight and go underneath. And btw, make sure the timing belt had been changed, if not do it asap, an 11 years old timing belt is a ticking bomb, regardless of mileage.

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

Check the engine oil pan drain plug first. The oil pan is aluminum and the plug requires a gasket. There are many, many occurrences of the threads stripping from the aluminum pans. I purchased our CRD in 2014 with 45k miles with a leaking oil pan drain plug. The CRD had just been serviced and the oil plug was installed without the gasket. During the next oil change, I installed a Fumoto F-102 oil drain valve before the oil pan threads stripped. The Fumoto drain valve has a safety catch and seals tight. The oil pan has not leaked since.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 12:46 pm

Also check the airbox to turbo hose as it tends to tear on the bottom just in front of the turbo where oil from the CCV valves drips into that hose. If it's torn it will drip a bit of oil onto the ground.

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

Called the dealer and he's sending me to a local shop on Monday. In the mean time I decided to get underneath and see what I can find. The oil cooler (?) up in front of the radiator has what looks like a lot of old oil accumulation, but doesn't look like the source. Then looked at the drain plug and it was wet with oil with a big drop just waiting to fall. Tried to tighten the plug but it was already tight. Cleaned up whatever oil I could reach and put a big sheet of cardboard on the floor to help me isolate the location of the source. I'll probably give the engine a thorough cleaning tomorrow. Could I be so lucky as to have the source be the drain plug? Stay tuned for updates!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 2:51 pm

OEM drain plug is supposed to have a copper crush washer on it. That washer often gets left off which can cause leaks and may result in stripped threads in the aluminum oil pan. The pan is impossible to replace without lifting the engine but if the treads are stripped there are options. PM or email me if you find stripped treads.

I'd replace the drain plug with a fumoto valve for ease of future oil changes but be sure to use a zip tie to lock the drain lever down just as a precaution.

X2 on getting the timing belt done like NOW unless you have proof positive it has been done. Proof positive means receipts not our mechanic looked at it and it's ok.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 5:02 pm

Just get a fumoto oil drain valve, install it yourself when doing an oil change. Most oil change people (you can't call those "technicians") in the shops are morons and tend to strip the aluminum pan threads. Anyways, I'd do an oil change asap, as it's recommend with any used vehicle you buy, you never know what oil is in there. When I got my crd 5+ years ago, it had semi synthetic oil changed by the dealer. You can get shell Rotella t6 or Mobil 1 turbo diesel truck oil. It's also recommend to get a gde tune and make sure the timing belt is replaced or will be very soon.

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

I might go with a Fumoto valve. Looks like their model F-102 is the correct size. Anyone happen to remember if that's the right one?

If it turns out to be the drain plug I will definitely do an oil change myself. What oil weight do you recommend for warmer climates (I'm in North Carolina)?

Yeah, about the timing belt. I really screwed up on that. I thought I had read that all Liberties had timing chains so when I looked at this CRD I didn't even think to research it further. Big mistake. Unfortunately I'm tapped out for money at the moment. I do plan on changing it before it reaches 100K, just not in the immediate future. I may even do it myself. Watched some how-to videos on Youtube and downloaded the shop manuals. I've never taken on a project of this size before, but in the interest of saving some money I may give it a try myself if I can't find a local shop who will do it for a reasonable price.

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

bigkahuna wrote:

I might go with a Fumoto valve. Looks like their model F-102 is the correct size. Anyone happen to remember if that's the right one?

If it turns out to be the drain plug I will definitely do an oil change myself. What oil weight do you recommend for warmer climates (I'm in North Carolina)?

Yeah, about the timing belt. I really screwed up on that. I thought I had read that all Liberties had timing chains so when I looked at this CRD I didn't even think to research it further. Big mistake. Unfortunately I'm tapped out for money at the moment. I do plan on changing it before it reaches 100K, just not in the immediate future. I may even do it myself. Watched some how-to videos on Youtube and downloaded the shop manuals. I've never taken on a project of this size before, but in the interest of saving some money I may give it a try myself if I can't find a local shop who will do it for a reasonable price.

.

As stated in my posting above, Fumoto F-102 is the correct part number (also, see my signature). It comes with a fiber gasket. I coated the gasket and threads with permatex ultra-gray before installing the valve.

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 6:22 pm

Rotella T-6 5W-40 is what I use.

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

Checked under the engine again after a run to the store and waiting the better part of the day. Only place I found fresh oil was directly under (and on) the drain plug. So my plan is to give it an oil and filter change in the next few days. In the mean time I'm going to look for a new copper washer and give the entire engine and underside a good cleaning. Fingers crossed they didn't strip the threads on the oil pan and all I need is a new washer.

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

Can anyone tell me if this looks like a factory original oil drain plug? It takes a 17mm socket wrench.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Apr 20, 2016 3:14 pm

I cannot answer based on appearance but I can say that the OEM drain plug came in hex head or allen head and that the crush washer in your image appears to be aluminum based on color and is obviously shot.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Apr 20, 2016 3:16 pm

Doesn't look like original had an Allen bolt.

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

It's a weird sized drain plug for sure. Doesn't match what appears in the manufacturer's replacement at the parts stores. I even had a hard time finding a replacement washer, so had to get a fiber washer instead of aluminum/copper. That'll have to do until the next oil change.

While I was under the Jeep I noticed one of the bolts holding on the transmission was almost ready to fall out. It's in a really tough spot to reach but I tightened it up good.

And last but not least, get a load of the type of oil that was used for the last oil change... at the Jeep dealer no less. I spent the extra dough and used Mobile 1 0w40 and a good filter. So far no leaks.

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

Oh, almost forgot to mention that I was careful to add exactly 6.4 quarts of oil. On my dipstick it reaches the bottom end of the safe scale. I remembered reading here on the forums that some of the dipsticks weren't accurate. Hopefully I did right.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 20, 2016 5:17 pm

Not that Mobil 1 0w-40 is a bad choice of oil, but most will reccomend that Mobil 1 5w-40 TurboDieselTruck is a better oil for your engine.
Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 is also a good oil for a turbo diesel engine.

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

@flash7210 - I wasn't sure whether to get the 0w40 or 5w40 so went with what the owner's manual says. I'm betting that either is better than what the dealer used for its last oil change. I can give 5w40 a try next time, cost the same as the 0w40.

I really need to figure out what size that drain plug is. Didn't have a caliper and needed to button this up so it'll have to wait until next time. But I definitely want to replace it with a Fumoto drain if possible.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Apr 20, 2016 9:10 pm

bigkahuna wrote:

@flash7210 - I wasn't sure whether to get the 0w40 or 5w40 so went with what the owner's manual says. I'm betting that either is better than what the dealer used for its last oil change. I can give 5w40 a try next time, cost the same as the 0w40.

I really need to figure out what size that drain plug is. Didn't have a caliper and needed to button this up so it'll have to wait until next time. But I definitely want to replace it with a Fumoto drain if possible.

If you don't have a gde tune, go with synthetic diesel 5w40, like shell Rotella t6 or Mobil 1 turbo diesel truck. With gde, Mobil 1 0w40 is a great choice.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Apr 21, 2016 10:22 am

bigkahuna wrote:

Can anyone tell me if this looks like a factory original oil drain plug? It takes a 17mm socket wrench.

Yes, it looks to be the OEM plug with an aluminum sealing washer. Factory used a copper sealing washer.
The OEM plug used a Straight Thread PF 3/8-19 metric plug. Since the threads were not tapered, it requires a sealing washer.

It can be replaced with a Fumoto F-102 PF-3/8 DRAIN VALVE if your threads are still in good condition.
Fumoto also has a safety locking clip now that will safely lock the valve in the closed position.
Part No. LC-10 SMALL LEVER CLIP FOR F-SERIES VALVES

New Liberty CRD owner - Oil Leaks :(

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