Vegas Mechanic

iskion1 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 23, 2013 8:48 am **Posts:** 10

We have an '05 CRD that has some issues and need to find someone for repairs. Can anyone recommend a mechanic in the Las Vegas area?

Thanks,
Pete

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed May 04, 2016 9:50 am

What are the issues???
Geordi on this forum travels at times and does engine top end repairs and updates like timing belt replacement, head studs, and rocker arm replacements, etc... :wink:

iskion1 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 23, 2013 8:48 am **Posts:** 10

Problems include
Excessive black smoke (has gotten worse over the last year or two)
Oil dipstick keeps coming out
Black Oily coating in engine compartment, passenger side, seems to be from the front.
Recently, gentle surging during acceleration

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

Sounds like it could be an issue with your Crank Case Vent, it sits on the passenger side of the head; looks kinda like a hockey puck. This should have a hose going from it to the turbo inlet hose. All of these parts are available from IDParts for pretty cheap money if you don't mind getting your hands dirty.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed May 04, 2016 2:08 pm

Are you filling the oil repeatedly to the full mark?
And, when was the last time the fuel filter was changed? One dose of bad fuel could also clog a few filters quickly.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed May 04, 2016 2:36 pm

iskion1 wrote:

Problems include
Excessive black smoke (has gotten worse over the last year or two)
Oil dipstick keeps coming out
Black Oily coating in engine compartment, passenger side, seems to be from the front.
Recently, gentle surging during acceleration

First, read the NOOB guide at the top of the page.

Which dipstick keeps popping out? Engine or transmission?
Its very common for the trans dipstick to keep popping out. IDK why. It just does that.
If its the engine oil dipstick, I'd say that it would take some extreme crankcase pressure to push it out. You probably also have a rear main seal leak too if thats the case.

The black oily coating is probably from your crankcase vent and boost hoses.
The crankcase vent tends to send a oily mist out and into the turbo inlet hose. The accumulated oil in the inlet hose and boost hoses will slowly deteriorate the hoses and the oil mist will eventually seep through.
The only real fix for this is to install a Provent and you will probably need new hoses too.
Also, don't fill the oil till its all the way at the full mark on the dipstick. The dipstick is marked wrong. Halfway between Add and Full is good.

The excessive black smoke and surging are probably related.
Could be because of any or all of the following:
bad MAP sensor
stuck open EGR valve
clogged fuel filter or other fuel supply problem (such as air in fuel)

How many miles are on your CRD?
Has the timing belt been replaced?
Most CRD owners have to do repairs themselves because good mechanics are hard to find.

iskion1 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 23, 2013 8:48 am **Posts:** 10

First, I want to thank everyone for the quick reply's.
I do most of my own automotive repairs. The problem comes when I can't find documentation (books or videos) on how to do something or I don't have special tools required.

Here are answers to questions
Which dipstick keeps popping out? Engine or transmission?
It is the transmission dipstick, I was hoping this was going to be an easy fix

Are you filling the oil repeatedly to the full mark?
No, other than when I change the oil, it doesn't seem to go through much oil

When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
Over a year ago

How many miles are on your CRD?
165k

Has the timing belt been replaced?
Yes, About 75k miles ago

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

If you do find a good mechanic in Nevada, please consider submitting it to our shop directory: https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/installers/

twulf · **Posted:** Thu May 05, 2016 1:05 am

Check your boost hoses for rips. The best way is to remove them and inspect.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu May 05, 2016 11:04 am

The transmission dipstick popping out is common. The problem is the stick is a bit to long and hits the bottom of the oil pan thus not allowing it to properly lock in the tube at the top.... Solution is to shorten the dipstick by either cutting a little off the end of the stick or bend a small Z in the stick to shorten it. Either solution will work. :wink:

Check your inlet hose between the air box and turbo for cracks, most likely it has a crack in it allowing oil from the CCV vent to leak oil out the bottom, another common issue on these motors. Some like myself have installed a ProVent filter on the CCV hose between the motor and the intake boot to filter oil the liquid oil and only allow the vapors to be burned by the motor. Without a filter, oil will accumulate in the bottom of the CAC (intercooler)....

iskion1 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 23, 2013 8:48 am **Posts:** 10

Again, thanks to everyone for the help.
Here is where things stand now. I have pulled both the MAP sensor and the MAF sensor. Both have been cleaned (MAP was very clogged). Since both cans of brake cleaner had chlorine in them, I used engine degreaser on the MAP sensor. Still have a lot of black smoke and the surging is still there. How can you tell if the MAP has gone bad?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon May 09, 2016 1:26 pm

I don't know how or if you can tell if the MAP sensor is bad but since a replacement can be had for under $30 (BOSCH # is 0 281 002 845 or GM PN 55206797) you might just toss a new one on and see if it helps.

iskion1 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 23, 2013 8:48 am **Posts:** 10

How hard is it to remove the EGR to check and clean it? Are there any videos on removal?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon May 09, 2016 3:32 pm

See viewtopic.php?f=5&t=59352&p=659410#p659410 and viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62495

I would not invest time in cleaning the EGR unless you also get a tune to minimize its function. Either one of the site's free ones or the GDE tune. Frankly if you get a tune you may not need to clean the EGR unless it's stuck open (e.g. passing exhaust gas constantly into the intake)

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Mon May 09, 2016 3:38 pm

I would definitely clean the EGR and I would definitely get the Week's elbow kit and the tune. Or I would just sell the Jeep

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon May 09, 2016 5:31 pm

iskion1 wrote:

Again, thanks to everyone for the help.
Here is where things stand now. I have pulled both the MAP sensor and the MAF sensor. Both have been cleaned (MAP was very clogged). Since both cans of brake cleaner had chlorine in them, I used engine degreaser on the MAP sensor. Still have a lot of black smoke and the surging is still there. How can you tell if the MAP has gone bad?

Forget about the MAF.
Unplug it and leave it. You'll get a CEL but it won't effect how the engine runs.

If the MAP were bad, you should get a CEL.
Tools like a ELM327 and TorquePro for android can read sensor data as well as codes and help with diagnosis.

Either block off or delete the EGR valve.
Sasquatch Motorsports sells all the parts to do it.
There is also a seller on eBay who sells a block off plate.

Something that hasn't been mentioned yet is the possibility of your rockers being worn out. But it would be best to eliminate any potential problems on the outside of the engine before tearing the top off.

iskion1 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 23, 2013 8:48 am **Posts:** 10

Well, new update.
This morning, before the wife took it to work, I disconnected the MAF. According to her, no more surging and very little smoke, but it now has a CEL (which I knew it would). I don't have a problem leaving the MAF disconnected, but it will have to go through emissions testing in a couple of months. I know it will not pass emissions with the MAF disconnected. This would make me think that the MAF is bad and would have to be replaced before I have to take it in for emissions testing.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed May 11, 2016 4:20 pm

Back in the early days of the CRD, before there was any solution to the EGR problem, we used to disconnect the MAF sensor as a way of disabling the EGR valve.
I'd say that if it run better with the MAF disconnected then the problem is with the EGR valve.
So figure out which EGR delete solution works best for you and forever eliminate the possibility of a EGR problem.

I dont know what emissions tests are like where you live, but in the mean time, reconnect the MAF and clear the code. Pass the test and then do the EGR delete.

iskion1 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 23, 2013 8:48 am **Posts:** 10

Here in Vegas, emissions are tested every year. I am assuming that if I do an EGR delete or run a tune that would turn off the EGR, it will not pass an emission test. If there is anyone on the board that can confirm or correct my information, I would like to hear about it.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed May 11, 2016 8:41 pm

Again, I dont know what emissions tests are like for you, but here is what I would do...

1. Install this block off plate:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Valve-Delete-Block-Off-Plate-2005-2006-Jeep-Liberty-2-8l-CRD-Turbo-Diesel-/301746937898?hash=item464184e02a:g:Wh4AAOSwGotWn8gt&vxp=mtr
and either
2a. Remove the flap from inside the intake elbow FCV and hope for the best.
or
2b. Just unplug the FCV and then load one of the DIY tunes that removes the FCV code.
or
2c. Get the GDE eco tune.

This way everything will still look factory stock.

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