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Trans Go Install
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=8462		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Ripster [ Fri May 12, 2006 9:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Trans Go Install
I would have liked to have taken photos, but with the oil running down my arm I would have
ruined the camera. I am letting it set overnight with the pan on with the new gasket goop, (no
one has a gasket). Tomorrow will solder the resister, and fill and see what happens. This may
be called a do-it-yourselfer project, but I recommend not even trying it without having it on
a lift. You do remove the valve bodies, and you must unlatch the wiring on the drivers side
of the transmission. The soldering is on the other plug on the passenger side of the transmission.
I would rate this about medium in difficulty and on the high edge of what I would want to do.
Some of the parts are small and patience and attention to detail is needed or you will screw it up.

It is all back together but I am letting the pan sit overnight--ran out of time. So tomorrow afternoon
sometime, I will at least have an opinion as to the shifting and after a month or so know for sure
if this helps. If the torque converter is a weak point, then we could still have a problem, even if
this fixes the issue. With only 1600 miles on it though, it is running fine, except for the shifting issue.
Been getting 24-27mpg on the trips I have been taking also. At 70 on the free way, the evic
stays at 25.5 mile after mile.

Keep your fingers crossed. Figured a new thread would be easier to find on the TransGo Kit.
Marauder you ever get yours installed?? You slacker you were supposed to do this on Tuesday
at the latest.
Author:  marauderer [ Fri May 12, 2006 10:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Trans Go Install
Ripster wrote:
Keep your fingers crossed. Figured a new thread would be easier to find on the TransGo Kit.
Marauder you ever get yours installed?? You slacker you were supposed to do this on Tuesday
at the latest.


I'm a Slacker, I'm a Slacker, I'm a Slacker, I'm a Slacker! :roll: :roll: :roll: I know! I just haven't had the energy to crawl up under it as you said. I am looking for a lift.

On Tuesday I was going to install the resister but the interference from the exhaust bracket was the turn off. Maybe next week.

I hope all is well with your install Ripster and look forward to your post tomorrow.
Author:  Ripster [ Fri May 12, 2006 10:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
For sure find a lift, I was considering using my ramps, but this is a complete removal of the pan,
and then the valve bodies, the first instruction of removing the connection is the one on the drivers
side, not the one that the resistor will go in, otherwise the valve bodies will not drop down for you.
Instructions lack just a touch in steps but are otherwise good. The tiny parts are the bugger on this
one, the steel rings and circle gaskets take a minute to put in, the springs and the plate they supply
will definitely change the pressure of things down there. Looking forward to starting it up tomorrow
and see if it moves :o I will catch heck from the dealership if it does not. They are used to me
doing different things to my cars over the years. This one is definitely on me this time.
Author:  Stan Wright [ Fri May 12, 2006 11:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the update. Mine is still sitting here in the box. I doubt if I get to it this weekend due to work tomorrow and Mother's Day commitments. Hopefully by next weekend.

Keep the updates coming.
Author:  Ripster [ Fri May 12, 2006 11:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
Unless you have at least 4 hours don't start. I am at 3 hours and I have not filled it, nor
soldered the resistor yet. Hope to figure out the release on the socket on the passenger
side, don't want to break anything. The one on the drivers side, pull down on the
different colored part and it will go down, lifting the plug out of the contacts. Once
all the way down it will then lift off. Must be all the way down to put back on, then
lift the lever to the top and it will seat the plug and lock in. They did not mention
this in the instructions. Instructions should come with the clue on how the stupid
plug is made kid proof.
Author:  retmil46 [ Fri May 12, 2006 11:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hope you have at least 9 quarts of tranny fluid handy just in case. If you didn't pull the cooler return filter, and it's one of the good ones, then perhaps you'll only need 5 quarts to refill. If you did pull both filters, then it'll be 9 quarts to refill.

Tranny pan doesn't have a gasket - uses that frakkin special RTV. That's one reason why if I decide to install one of these, it's going back to the tranny shop. RTV and I don't get along, always end up getting it every place but where I want it.

When the local tranny shop replaced the filters on mine, it initially took 5 or 6 quarts. It then took 3 separate sessions of driving and topping off the fluid before all the air was purged out and it finally decided it was full, 9 quarts total. Oldnavy reported the same when dealer did the filter TSB on his.
Author:  Ripster [ Sat May 13, 2006 8:14 am ]
Post subject: 
Yes I took previous posts on 9 qts and I have them ready in case I need them. And I
did change out both filters while I was there. Next time I change the PML cover is going
in with a drain plug, had enough of the oil everywhere when draining.
Author:  Anders [ Sat May 13, 2006 10:53 am ]
Post subject:  No lift.
I did the Trans Go operation without a lift. One idea is to raise the rear of the car and open up the front side of the tranny first. Oil flow will then be concentrated forwards and not hit the crossmember at the rear. But you need a real large container. At least as wide as the tranny is.
The electrical connector on the left side of the box is the one that is fitted verticaly. The one that goes verticaly into the box should be left connected.
The vertikal one is fitted with a leaver that also secqures its possition. Take it easy so you find the leaver arm.

One other ting - I used red RTV. That means everyone can see that I have been inside the box. Use black instead - that is what it is originaly glued with.
A good thing to get the old RTV of, is to use a knife and a stainless wirebrush - and clean the surfaces with brakeleen, aceton or similar.

Regards

Anders


Better milage? - Not a chance.
Author:  Ranger1 [ Sat May 13, 2006 11:21 am ]
Post subject:  Transgo kit
Anders - So, whats the verdict? :?: :!: :!: :!:

Does the transgo kit eliminate the 55-65 shudder? Does it shift much better?
Author:  deadrx7conv [ Sat May 13, 2006 11:27 am ]
Post subject: 
Is the resistor part of the shift kit?

If not, point me to the thread that explains the 'resistor'.
Author:  Stan Wright [ Sat May 13, 2006 1:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
The resistor is part of the shift kit.
Author:  Anders [ Sat May 13, 2006 1:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yes the resistor is part of the kit. Just to install this made the gearing better.

Yes -on my box it cured nearly everything. One thing you cant do is to fit the new springs that raise the preasure. I will do it when I take the box out of the car. - If someone can convince me to change the converter.
I now see in my previous post that I got the connectors wrong. Horisontal left side - just leave it. Vertical left side - this is the one with the leaver.
Going through my posts I can see that my spelling isn´t the best. But one thing - I speak and write english much better than you ever will learn swedish.

All the best. We have early Spring here, wine on the table and barbeque is on.

Anders
Author:  Ripster [ Sat May 13, 2006 3:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well heading out for a trip, took the 9 quarts. Be sure and remove the L/R solid switch part, behind the cap before putting in the self cleaning switch that is part of the kit. If you don't you will have two parts in there and reverse will not work. Don't ask.

I can not get it to shudder. 70, let off, 90 coast down, and I drive either over 60 or just over 50, I don't hover around
55, but you can, mine will shift at 55 down one gear, and shift final at 60-62 depending on load. I have not been able
to get it to shudder yet. I still have a firm shift at 20 which would be nicer softer, but the kit did not change that.
Firm quick shifts.

All shifts firm, this is not a cadillac shift that you can never feel, you know when it shifts, but very pleased overall.
Would I do it again? Absolutely. Do I know if it is completely fixed? It is now, time will tell over all the shift patterns
and loads. 5/16's to remove the pan, 8mm to remove the bolts, T-25 torx for the valve bodies, oil all over the place--priceless.
Author:  Ripster [ Sat May 13, 2006 3:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
Anders what springs are you referring to, I installed all of my kit, including springs.
Author:  marauderer [ Sat May 13, 2006 7:48 pm ]
Post subject:  Which TransGo kit do you have?
Ripster wrote:
Anders what springs are you referring to, I installed all of my kit, including springs.


TransGo offers two kits. One has parts to bump the line pressure up by increasing the pressure on the bypass valve of the transmission pump. That requires the removal of the Tranny from the car and a partial disassembly to install. It also includes a new snap ring to hold the tranny pump and internals assembly in the case. If you didn't have the 45FRE-HD2 kit which has those parts I would imagine you have the other kit.
Author:  Ripster [ Sat May 13, 2006 11:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
I do have the other kit, tried to get a straight answer out of both TransGo and the place I bought mine from, and it would seem they don't know
their kits well. I have the one they said was for do it yourselvers. They do have a cheaper one for professionals, but no instructions in that one
they say, and then for instructions they charge you another $20. So I do not have the one that requires you to remove your transmission.

Just got back from 100 mile trip, firm shifts, no shutter, smoother shifts in the 3-4-5 range, the shift at 20 had no change not smoother or
rough, just pretty firm, more that I would like, but oh well, smoother once warmed up. Fluid level right on the money, so will continue
testing.
Author:  marauderer [ Sat May 13, 2006 11:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
That firm shift will extend the life of your transmission. It will have less wear and less heat generated. I have got to get my Ar$$ in gear and get mine done. I think you guys are correct and it may be the cure for a potential bad problem
Author:  Anders [ Sun May 14, 2006 12:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Barr, you sent me the kit that includes the springs for upgrading the oilpump. Like we said - ypu have to take out the gearbox to put them in. I think we need them, since I have noticed a bump when changing gear. Especialy in cold weather and downshifting. My instructions differ from the ones you have Barr. Will send you a photo of springs and instruction.

regards

anders
Author:  marauderer [ Sun May 14, 2006 3:57 pm ]
Post subject: 
Anders wrote:
Barr, you sent me the kit that includes the springs for upgrading the oilpump. Like we said - ypu have to take out the gearbox to put them in. I think we need them, since I have noticed a bump when changing gear. Especialy in cold weather and downshifting. My instructions differ from the ones you have Barr. Will send you a photo of springs and instruction. regards anders


i have the same kit you do Anders. You have the same instructions that I have?? I also have the springs that that increase the bypass relief on tranny atf pump.

But, please do send me your instructions.
Author:  CATCRD [ Sun Feb 18, 2007 8:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
Can someone say for sure which kit they have installed on the APS page? http://www.apsprecision.com/ShiftKit.html There are two listed here, Junior and Performance. Then there is the -HD2 kit pictured here. http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/transgo.htm Is that just one of the above kits?

I want to do all the mods short of removing the transmission. I'm ok with going into the valve body, replacing springs and such.
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