I was thinking about getting better hose for my CRD as the OEM I got seem kind of soft !!!!

and then I started thinking, would it be better to get aluminium pipe like most intercooled turbo gasser .

#1 if the hoses are soft it will create turbo lag #2 the aftermarket one aren't cheap !!!!

thanks

Hmm, don't take this the wrong way...but it isn't a race car. If you're worried about the tenths of a second (if that) the expansion of the CAC hoses is causing, you're driving the wrong vehicle. Also, where are you going to acquire custom aluminum CAC tubes for this vehicle for less than the $200 that IDParts hoses cost? I have access to dozens of CNC machines, tube benders, press brakes, etc and wouldn't touch that project with a 10 foot stick knowing how little benefit it would have. If there were not a good solution to the real problem, decomposition of poor quality rubbers, then it might be more tempting. If you have a lot of time and fabrication skill then go for it, and by all means, post tons of pictures of the result. I absolutely support people accomplishing custom projects for our rigs, but from a realistic perspective I can't see the point.

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

I think you really took my post the wrong way......

first I'm not into drag racing at all , turbo lag is not good for any application
you don't need CNC machines, tube benders, press brakes to do intercooler piping, you can buy 45 and 90 degree aluminium elbow really cheap and some can be silicone ( e-bay ) .
and the Samco hose from ID part are actually 279$.
I've done a few turbo project as a fab welder and I have tools and welder to do aluminium in my garage.

I don't think the one from the turbo is a big deal but the one on the other side might !!

In this thread: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=51797&start=140
A guy in Poland made aluminum CAC tubes for his Wrangler.
Others have done it too.

I say give it a shot.
Let us know how it all works and post pictures and a how-to.

I'm curious to know if they will hold 25psi of boost without popping apart.

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U.S. Army Retired

I did some set up going up to 21psi

but 25 is quite a bit , set up like the CRD with a small volume turbo at high pressure with complicated routing can be pretty bad for turbo lag. turbo people use to say you loose 1psi per 90 degree elbow.

I found this kit on ebay for 86$ not sure its the right size , just as an exemple of the price.
you probably have enough for 2 jeep !!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-8PC-2 ... 1213838921

I think as long as you have the rib at the end of the tubing it should stay there !

That kit might work.
Gonna also need some silicone reducers and some silicone 45 deg bends.
I believe the outlet from the turbo is either 2 or 2.25 inches.

However, once you start cutting the lengths of tube you will loose the rib at each end. Unless of course you weld the ribbed end back on.

Even a stock tuned CRD can occasionally see 23psi from the turbo. 25psi just gives a little bit more headroom.
Folks who plan to install modified turbos will want tubes to hold at least 30psi.
Heck, I've even pushed my stock turbo to 28psi. (not recommended)

The biggest problem with CAC tubes popping off is the oil that gets in them from the CCV. Trapping that oil with a Provent will help.
Even my Weeks intake elbow has popped off several times and it has the rib at each end. I've finally got it where it holds tight. (even at 28psi)

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U.S. Army Retired

Best is to go to a professional muffler shop and have them make the bent pipes, with your silicone connectors and using the model of the rubber/silicone boost hoses. Since weeks elbow doesn't pop out at that many psi, I'm sure the made pipes won't either.

Real question is, will this worth the effort? I'd personally go with some silicone boost hoses from idparts.com.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

The trick to stop and prevent any pop offs or blow offs of boost hoses is to apply a light spray coating of spray adhesive like 3M or one of the others available at most autoparts stores or at hardware / builders stores like Lowes or Home Depot on the contact area before slipping the hose or coupler on and clamping it tight.
I learned this trick on my Dodge Cummins which kept blowing the 4 inch silicone boost couplers off at high boost pressures of over 40 psig....
Of course very good high quality clamps are a must....

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

To the OP - yes you can make or have made aluminum tubes that will work. Others on the forum have done so. You will need 1) bent al tube preferable with a crimp at each end to hold the silicone adapters; 2) 4 short lengths of silicone hose 1 for each end of the al tube to provide the needed flex; and 3) 8 hose clamps, ideally "T" bolt, 2 for each silcone hose adapter.

Is it worth the bother and cost? Probably not given that you can get both hoses in silicone with the needed "T" bolt clamps from idParts for $200+shipping.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

did you check my link ?????

for 86$ its pretty cheap if you can weld it yourself

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-8PC-2 ... 1213838921

8-Piece Piping Set Includes:
2 X 180 Degree U-Pipes
2 X 90 Degree Pipes
2 X 45 Degree Pipes
2 X Straight Pipes
16 X T-Bolt Clamps
2 X Elbow Hoses
6 X Straight Hoses

I didn't take it the wrong way at all. I understand where you're coming from and I know you aren't racing your Jeep, which is exactly why I questioned the project in the first place. I can't see the point of all the effort when you can get custom fit silicone hoses, which ARE $200 for the IDParts Brand Name (Not SAMCO), that work fine. I guess if your Jeep is making significantly more power than most it makes sense. I have had IDParts hoses on my Jeep for almost a year and never had any blow off problems. Just make sure they're clean before they go on and use adhesive if you must (I didn't) and there shouldn't be a problem.

And again, I'm not saying don't do it. I encourage you to go for it if you have the time and will.

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

I've got some samcos for sale for cheap

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete