Need help with Head gasket, arp studs or moving on.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Jul 24, 2016 9:06 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

The green Scotch Brite Pads are less abrasive than the dark red ones... :!:

But what about the Burgandy ones?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 24, 2016 10:35 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

The green Scotch Brite Pads are less abrasive than the dark red ones... :!:

But what about the Burgundy ones?

The Burgundy ones and the dark red ones are one in the same! Some call them Maroon.

6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
General Purpose Hand Pad 7447 is comparable to steel wool grade 1

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jul 24, 2016 10:48 pm

Interesting. The steel wool I have is rated 600 grit, not sure what grade it is, but it is very fine.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 9:02 am

As I was putting valve cover back on I scratched the bottom on the bolts I was using as a guide (lost my footing as I was leaning over.) you can feel the scratch if you run your finger over it.
what kind of issue did I just create for myself? Do I need to take it in to get machined? Can I use some sort sealant to fill the gap? Scratches are down the middle where the fuel injectors insert.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 9:31 am

How deep is the scratch?
You could probably fill it in with a small amount of RTV.

But you will probably be ok as is. The gasket is pretty robust.
Depending on how deep the scratch is.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 9:54 am

Not sure how to describe depth of scratch and unfortunately I didn't take a picture. At the time I shrugged it off and I put cover on. Started to bother me later. Best I can describe it is with a rubber glove on I can rub my finger across the surface and tell it is there.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 10:43 am

I wouldn't worry about it. There is nothing there that actually seals anything if I'm thinking where you scratched it

JDaPP · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 10:49 am

Thanks. The scratch is basically right in front of the #1fuel injector center rail and it sits entirely on the gasket.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 12:21 pm

Don't worry about it at all - The valve cover gasket is a formality. It is more of an oil seal and a pad than anything else, the pressure under there where the cams are should never be over 1psi or less than -1. That is the purpose of the CCV to evacuate it. The oil that is spraying around under there won't force itself out to the injectors, b/c there isn't any pressure to do so.

Congrats on getting it back together!

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 4:36 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

The green Scotch Brite Pads are less abrasive than the dark red ones... :!:

But what about the Burgundy ones?

The Burgundy ones and the dark red ones are one in the same! Some call them Maroon.

6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
General Purpose Hand Pad 7447 is comparable to steel wool grade 1

Are they the same as the rust colored ones?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 01, 2016 12:27 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

Are they the same as the rust colored ones?

FYI: 3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads Color Chart:

↑ Less Aggressive Finer Finish
↓ More Aggressive Coarser Finish

7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
8447 - Maroon Aluminum Oxide, Production very fine grade (360-400)
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
(The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)

Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 5:03 pm

Okay got it back together. Will not crank. Everything is plugged in except airbox. Everything looks normal except I notice tensioner notch is no longer lined up after attempting crank a few time's. Not sure if that is normal.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 5:03 pm

Battery was on charger, and I have already let the air out of the filter

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 5:41 pm

Won't crank, or won't start?

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 5:58 pm

If you turned the key on while you had things disassembled, you probably have a stack of codes in the computer. Scan / clear them, disconnect the battery and let it sit for at least 5 minutes. Then try again.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 5:59 pm

Won't turn over. Starter lights off, etc. but will not light off.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 6:44 pm

Engine cranks but won't start?

You probably need to bleed air out of the fuel rail.
Crack open the #1 injector fuel line. Crank the engine to pump the air out. Then retighten the fuel line.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 6:54 pm

X2. If it cranks but won't "fire" than you need to crack an injector line. I always crack number 4 and spin the cp3 by hand before I put it back together. And yes, it's normal for the tensioner to move after a couple rotation. That is another I always check when I rotate by hand and re insert pins. Usually have to tighten the tensioner to get it back in the window.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 6:56 pm

Never mind.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 7:03 pm

Okay finally started up. Looks like I had a fuel leak at #4. Has a rumble that I am not used to hearing. It is like a thump thump thump type of rumble.

Need help with Head gasket, arp studs or moving on.

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