Fuel filter housing/fuel heater leak.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 18, 2016 5:06 pm

The updated filter assembly will require a new wiring harness connector for the fuel heater plug. Like this one:https://www.amazon.com/LIBERTY-FILTER-HOUSING-DIESEL-HEATER/dp/B005T3EOBE

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

Yes, Chrysler does have an upgraded replacement. The part number for the fuel filter head is 68043089AA. It comes with a new filter. You will also need a new connector to mate with the heavier duty connector for the new heater. The part number is 68043086AA and it comes with leads.

In my opinion, the upgraded version isn't much better than the original. I replaced the original in my wife's CRD with a new upgraded fuel filter head because the original was sucking air into the fuel system. About 1 year later, the priming pump failed on the upgraded filter head. I pulled the upgraded heater from the newer unit, installed on the original and re-installed the original on the Jeep.

I have since purchased a Racor 245 with 2 micron filter and all of the ancillary pieces/parts to install it. I will be installing it in my wife's CRD the next time I replace the fuel filter. Click link for Racor install.

http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/racor/

I purchased the following parts from http://www.mouser.com to connect the Omega TH-44004-1/4NPT-12 temp sensor.

2 way male housing - 649-54200210
2 way female housing - 649-54200206
APEX 2.8MM male terminal (22 gauge) - 829-10762776 (for Omega sensor)
APEX 2.8MM female terminal (18 - 20 gauge) - 829-10757690-L (for CRD wiring)

The plug for the OEM fuel head temp sensor is removed from the CRD wiring and the APEX female connector is crimped in its place.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 18, 2016 9:29 pm

Just cut off the old connector and splice in the new one.
Use as much of the old wiring as you feel necessary.
It's fairly self explanatory.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jun 19, 2016 8:47 am

idParts (http://www.idparts.com/updated-fuel-fil ... -4723.html) has the gen 2 filter head (with filter and WIF sensor) and wiring as a kit and IIRC ships to Canada.

For reasons that escape me the wiring comes with 2 identical sets of wires so use one set and discard the other. To install the new wiring - 1) disconnect the battery; 2) unplug the original filter head heater connection; 3) slide the new wires (matched to old as close as possible based on size not color) thru the new heater connection and secure in place with the blue clip; 4) one at a time cut the wires to that connect to the original connector and splice in the new wire(s), I used marine grade butt connectors with heat shrink tubing; 5) wrap with new electrical tape (good stuff like 3M not the cheap stuff to goes to goo in a year or so); 6) hook battery back up. Swap old filter/filter head for new (be sure to unplug WIF sensor before hauling the old head out); remember to push not pull the rubber fuel hoses off; prime (see SirSam's NOOB guide for how) the new filter; drive.

NOTE this will solve air in the filter problems caused by leaks in the filter head but won't, if you have them, air leaks at the quick disconnect fittings back at the fuel tank.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jun 19, 2016 12:51 pm

If you can use a screwdriver, wire cutters, wire strippers, appropriate wrenches, etc. I would not waste $s on a mechanic:
1. you already know how to undo the 2 electric plugs so undo them
2. undo the clamps holding the 2 fuel hoses on (worm clamps use a screwdriver; spring clamps use pliers); use flat of screwdriver to push the hoses off (might have to lightly grasp with pliers and twist be break loose). Do NOT try to pull the hoses off as they will just grab tighter.
3. IIRC 2 bolts or nuts, forget which, hold filter head to bracket; undo them and carefully lift the filter head out and up until you can unplug WIF sensor electric connection on bottom of filter; there should be plenty of wire to do this.
4. reverse to install new filter head;
5. wire up new filter head heater plug per my previous post and hook up both filter head electric plugs.
6. bleed filter head per SirSam's NOOB post (NOTE I like to use a piece of clear vinyl tube on bleeder running to catch can so I can see air coming out and to keep diesel fuel spillage down). Remember a) pump primer until hard; b) crack bleeder; c) close bleeder (no godzilla as it's a steel bleeder in aluminum filter head so just lightly snug is fine); d) repeat until no more air comes out; e) drive.

You won't have air in the fuel problems caused by the new filter head. If you do, in the future, have air in the fuel head issues (neither I nor my son have that problem after a 2n gen filter head install) it's those quick disconnect fittings but to "fix" them involves dropping fuel tank to either replace them with diesel rated fuel line and/or install and in tank fuel pump.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jun 19, 2016 2:28 pm

You might find this post (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64260) useful. The 2 nuts holding the filter head to the bracket are visible just above the fuel inlet pipe banjo bolt and are not to be confused with the wider spaced nuts that hold the bracket to the firewall.

dgeist · **Posted:** Mon Jun 20, 2016 11:14 am

I personally think even the re-worked Mopar design still has some fundamental flaws and is just a bit "band-aid"ed with better materials and construction. I looked into the Racor replacement and found that I liked a similar stanadyne unit a bit better. Here's my build post: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=69556

Dan

dgeist · **Posted:** Mon Jun 20, 2016 3:29 pm

bushtit wrote:

Hey, thank you for that. I am always on a lookout for a better option, but with the improved Mopar parts already ordered I will likely go that route for now. I hope to get couple of years of solid "non-leaking" performance out of this. If this improved setup fails however, I will definitely follow up on this lead. Looks solid to me. Having said that, I see that you did your version few years back, would you be able to give us all feedback on how is it working after all this time?

Sure. In the time I've had it installed, I've never changed the filter, never had a leak, and never had to bleed it (nor does it even have a mechanism for bleeding). I never bothered putting in a heater since my climate doesn't really justify more than the block heater. Once started, the return fuel keeps the tank and the lines plenty warm. Mostly, I have been able to completely ignore my fuel system other than filling it. The cummins in-tank pump is a lot of that, but the FM100 has been rock-solid. One of these days I'm sure I'll have to change the filter

Dan

Fuel filter housing/fuel heater leak.

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