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 Post subject: Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings
PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 9:28 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2015 10:46 am
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Searched through previous posts as best as I could and I cannot find an answer. My CRD is stock suspension (none lifted) daily driver, not used off road (intentionally).

My original rear upper control arm (boomerang) is probably on it's way out. I purchased a MOOG unit awhile back in preparation for this event, not knowing at the time that there is issues with the MOOG pieces as well.

Question 1: Have the premature failures of the MOOG units been the bushings, ball joints or both?

Question 2: I have read somewhere on the forum that some of the newer MOOG bushings are filled in solid as opposed to the earlier versions (like the one I have) with voids. Are the newer MOOG Upper Control Arm bushings actually solid now?

Question 3: If the new bushings are beefier, is there merit to replacing them to start with before I use the new boomerang I have. I also notice that the bushings in the new arm I have are not pressed installed in the same orientation as has been mentioned in previous posts, so that would be an additional reason for replacement.

I struggle with the excessive price for an OEM unit as well, and I get vary favorable pricing from FCA.

All input greatly appreciated.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, 2006 KJ 3.7L 6spd., 2015 Ram 2500 6.7L 6spd., 2013 Subaru BRZ 6spd., 1969 Dodge Charger R/T 4spd. (Yes it's a Hemi).


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings
PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 1:46 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4229
Location: Central GA
mrhemi wrote:
Searched through previous posts as best as I could and I cannot find an answer. My CRD is stock suspension (none lifted) daily driver, not used off road (intentionally).
My original rear upper control arm (boomerang) is probably on it's way out. I purchased a MOOG unit awhile back in preparation for this event, not knowing at the time that there is issues with the MOOG pieces as well.
Question 1: Have the premature failures of the MOOG units been the bushings, ball joints or both?
Most have reported bushing failures, the ball joint is pretty robust
Question 2: I have read somewhere on the forum that some of the newer MOOG bushings are filled in solid as opposed to the earlier versions (like the one I have) with voids. Are the newer MOOG Upper Control Arm bushings actually solid now?
The newest MOOG Part Number: moog-k200428. Mopar OEM Part No.: 52088425 :google:
Question 3: If the new bushings are beefier, is there merit to replacing them to start with before I use the new boomerang I have. I also notice that the bushings in the new arm I have are not pressed installed in the same orientation as has been mentioned in previous posts, so that would be an additional reason for replacement.
They are replaceable, but the boomerang metal is so thin it may deform when doing the pressing in of the new bushings.
I struggle with the excessive price for an OEM unit as well, and I get vary favorable pricing from FCA.
All input greatly appreciated.

None of the replacement OEM type boomerangs are worth what they charge for them. Stamped thin flimsy metal with soft bushings that never last very long and are noisy.
If you install one of the IronRock upper control arms using my custom mount it will cost a little more than the OEM unit up front, but is the last one you will ever need to purchase or replace as they are both super heavy duty and the bushings and ball joint are serviceable. Also the Heim Joint is adjustable (pinion angle) which works great for lifted vehicles. (see picture below)

I do have on hand a very slightly used MOOG boomerang arm that I will sell cheap + shipping costs if anyone is interested. I went to the IronRock upper arm and my custom designed mount a little over a year ago, a super great mod. The MOOG unit is setting in my shop just taking up space and is not hurt. I hate to just throw it away.

Image

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings
PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 1:51 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:43 am
Posts: 4395
Location: Green Cove Springs FL
Is your CRD lifted?

If it is, that will put a lot more strain on the boomerang.
If not, then use the one you’ve already purchased. Depending on how you drive it, it might last a long time.

_________________
Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 5 volt bosch glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, JBA upper arms, 235-85-16 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings
PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 10:37 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 26, 2012 6:06 pm
Posts: 32
Location: New Mexico
WWDiesel, could you PM me.
Spoon


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings
PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 12:23 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4229
Location: Central GA
spoon wrote:
WWDiesel, could you PM me.
Spoon

done

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2018 10:00 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2015 10:46 am
Posts: 82
My Jeep is not lifted. Stock, used as a daily driver. I put the MOOG unit I had on hand in last week. World of difference handling wise. i found that both the bushings and the ball joint were worn out on the original. I believe the ball joint was the source of the "clunk" in the rear. All good now, until the next misadventure.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, 2006 KJ 3.7L 6spd., 2015 Ram 2500 6.7L 6spd., 2013 Subaru BRZ 6spd., 1969 Dodge Charger R/T 4spd. (Yes it's a Hemi).


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