Overheating, need guidance

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jul 30, 2016 2:22 am

At 160k miles, you are in the zone for a valve failure based on the results I have seen so far. None of those oil additives will do a dammn thing, and potentially could cause other problems like gumming up the very small passages. Not good. I only put oil into my oil.

Doing the rockers / studs / valves IS the complete overhaul, and yes, it sucks... But you then know for certain that it is *done* and you are good to go. This is what people are paying me to do for them, so you are already ahead of the game by doing the labor yourself. The parts are what is next: Rockers, studs, intake elbow, glow plugs, head gasket (optional but suggested to get the 2-hole) and then the valves.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Sat Jul 30, 2016 2:48 am

Yeah that is just more than i would like to spend at the moment. So why is 2 hole suggested? My gasket now is a 1 hole.

undrgnd · **Joined:** Sat Mar 26, 2016 4:47 am **Posts:** 194

geordi wrote:

Here you go - this is what mine all sound like after:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5447172/CRD-After.mp4

Despite the suction test, I think you might have some rocker issues, it shouldn't be pulsing like that. That is usually an indication.
The biggest thing however: DON'T RUN IT WHILE THERE ISN'T ANY WATER! These are a wet-sleeve engine, which means that the cylinder liners are cooled directly by the water in direct contact with the back of the liners. I might start an engine dry just for a test, but don't run it any longer than about 5 seconds.

You probably didn't hurt anything, but this is a very bad habit to get into and anyone else that sees that video needs to know this. Never run it while dry.

Geordi,

Is this after a full rocker replacement and all the updates or just a timing belt change?

Cheers

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jul 30, 2016 12:04 pm

undrgnd wrote:

geordi wrote:

Here you go - this is what mine all sound like after:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5447172/CRD-After.mp4

Despite the suction test, I think you might have some rocker issues, it shouldn't be pulsing like that. That is usually an indication.
The biggest thing however: DON'T RUN IT WHILE THERE ISN'T ANY WATER! These are a wet-sleeve engine, which means that the cylinder liners are cooled directly by the water in direct contact with the back of the liners. I might start an engine dry just for a test, but don't run it any longer than about 5 seconds.

You probably didn't hurt anything, but this is a very bad habit to get into and anyone else that sees that video needs to know this. Never run it while dry.

Geordi,

Is this after a full rocker replacement and all the updates or just a timing belt change?

Cheers

I need to learn to name my files better, or describe in the video what we are hearing... It has been a while so I'm not entirely certain, but I am pretty sure that the video is a CRD that had the full rockers / studs / elbow / timing belt job done on it. I have a video marked bad rockers, here's that one for comparison:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5447172/CRD-bad-rockers.mp4

ryanchris · **Posted:** Sat Jul 30, 2016 2:24 pm

Sounds alot better and moves alot less than mine. So i will need motors mounts too assume when /if i do everything else?

What about the 2 hole gasket? Wouldnt that change compression?

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jul 30, 2016 3:19 pm

Motor mounts wouldn't hurt, but you don't specifically need to do them now. As far as the two hole gasket - I would have thought it might change the compression too, but the answer is no, the engines still run great and it increases the overall seal between the head and block. We are only talking a difference of 2 hundredths anyway, but if the liner measurement wasn't correct and the liner lip hits the underside of the head, you *will* warp the head when the bolts pull it down. That will cause leaks eventually.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Sat Jul 30, 2016 9:31 pm

Just wondering if anyone has done or used this. I havent gotten any of the other parts but i might in a few months. If i do go ahead and do the complete overhaul i will probably go with the ELRING 690.426 (2 hole) head gasket as it seems you can get them without the head bolts, which i do not see why you would pay extra for them if you were buying studs anyway. Only thing is you have to get them for Europe. Amazon has the 1 hole in stock for quick shipping.. (ELRING 690.396) But not the 2. Thoughts?

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jul 30, 2016 10:45 pm

What is their price? Shipping from Europe isn't going to be cheap, and the gasket with bolts from IDparts is only $130 - The bolts are probably no more than about $20 of that total, and that is pushing it.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 12:01 am

The one amazon uk had was 65 with shipping getting it here on the 3rd if ordered this weekend i didnt think that was bad at all.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0068MJA7S/

Dont get me wrong ive ordered everything from idparts thus far and they are awesome... Just wish there was an option for without the bolts.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 2:47 am

Where did you find that part number? I found this looking at the "similar items" list on that page, and this certainly looks to be the correct gasket. There are several sellers that will ship to the USA, and it could be cheaper than IDparts... Maybe. Have to see what the shipping looks like.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listi ... dition=new

Edit: And there you go: Payment Total: USD 157.75 with 60 pounds in shipping, Amazon fees, and the exchange rate.

Just throw away the dang bolts. Everyone else does.

peteyz24 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 3:34 am

Holy crap! £60 shipping for a head gasket, that is steep. I paid £9 to ship my graf water pump from Latvia.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 9:39 am

I've seen head gaskets for sale on eBay without bolts for low prices. They all seem to be 2-hole and come from somewhere in Europe.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 12:25 pm

The Ebay ones usually are coming from The VM Specialist, and it is about a 50/50 shot if they are used. I wouldn't have a problem using a used gasket if it was the right thickness (2 hole) just because I don't care about the coating and this is an all-metal gasket anyway.

Just spray it down with Copper-Kote on both sides and on the head and block, and you have made your own much-superior coating.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 12:38 pm

I found those part numbers looking for other parts and seeing the prices on amazon uk and such, some on ebay as well. Not saying id want to use a used head gasket just that it might have been an option without bolts.

Also not all of them charge a ton for shipping. Here is the one i was looking at until you said i should go with the 2 hole.

Hell might even be a part id parts could stock, i am sure wherever they are getting the parts now probably can source these gaskets. Then you wouldnt have to worry about being robbed for shipping from certain sellers.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 12:53 pm

Yeah, the cheapest seller unfortunately refuses to ship to the USA on Amazon, the one I posted was the next cheapest... There were a couple more, I didn't look at their pricing though. The cost for the gasket itself was rapidly approaching the cost that IDparts charges when the exchange rate is factored in.

I'm not saying there aren't deals to be found, but they aren't easy to come by. I know IDparts has looked at bringing them over, and it just wasn't economical at all, even in bulk.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 31, 2016 1:11 pm

Found a few listed in Germany on eBay.uk, price + shipping to US less than $100 dollars:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=ELRING+690.426&_sop=15

Overheating, need guidance

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