Overheating, need guidance

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 24, 2016 9:26 pm

ryanchris wrote:

Did the glow plug removed crank test, and didnt get any coolant coming out of the glow plug holes... System was at 15 psi I crank it over a for maybe five minutes all together between checking for coolant and looking at the pressure. I havent had time to remove everything and do the tb and waterpump..Plus i figured i would do the glow plug test first.

Thoughts?

Also i asked above just making sure i am ok to use the 5v plugs?

Seems like a good sign, but how long did you keep the cooling system under pressure and was it topped off?
At any rate, a cooling system pressure test will result in visible leaks and noticeable loss of coolant. You've already identified a possible leak from the water pump. At the very least, the cooling system pressure test should have confirmed that.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Sun Jul 24, 2016 10:12 pm

It was under pressure for about 10 minutes before the cranking test. Then 5 minutes during, and probably 5 minutes after. I did see another small leak out of one of the hoses connected to the over flow but i think that might happened when i disconnected it to install the egr block off plug on the exhaust manifold. waterpump didnt seem to be leaking this time but it wasnt before until i drove it. At least i didnt notice it until then.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Mon Jul 25, 2016 11:26 am

I have been running the 5v bosch plugs ever since I bought my jeep and have had a GDE tune almost the whole time. I asked GDE and they said my tune was setup for 7V plugs but I have only replaced one GP in over 50,000 miles and a few EXTREMELY cold winters in MA and UT.

Ceearedeedriver · **Joined:** Fri May 06, 2016 8:44 pm **Posts:** 177

mass-hole wrote:

I have been running the 5v bosch plugs ever since I bought my jeep and have had a GDE tune almost the whole time. I asked GDE and they said my tune was setup for 7V plugs but I have only replaced one GP in over 50,000 miles and a few EXTREMELY cold winters in MA and UT.

That's a great data point. Much as I love what the GDE tune has done for my vehicle the tune + programming tool cost a tidy sum and I feel I've put enough into the GDE coffers over this vehicle and don't really want to be milked even more for 5V glow plug support :cry:

.

I do recall reading someone had compared Chrysler's settings for 5V versus 7V and noted no difference. Given the Etecnos are a no go for cold climates I'm feeling more confident about giving the 5V plugs a try with my 7V tune. I'd be happy with a 50K average lifespan.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Mon Jul 25, 2016 12:51 pm

Yeah thanks a lot mass.

Glad I got the 5V, since last year my jeep wouldn't start during the really cold winter days with the originals without the block heater. Although that was probably because they were going out and my fuel heater fuse was blown probably from having a first gen head. Replacing all of that's so if I can get it all back together and sorted hopefully I will be able to drive I to work without fear of it not starting if I don't drive it to lunch.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Tue Jul 26, 2016 9:32 pm

So it is just me.... Or does this timing belt look really old? As in 160k old and never been changed?

Also, I stopped for today, since i was having trouble getting the pins to line up / go in smoothly exactly. Is is possible the belt has stretched so much i wont be able to get both of the pins in smoothly? At the top of the belt between the cams it has noticeable slack.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jul 26, 2016 9:49 pm

The cost of a new timing belt is the absolute cheapest insurance you will ever buy to prevent a motor failure regardless of how it looks!!!! :dead:

Buy a new belt and replace it!!!

ryanchris · **Posted:** Tue Jul 26, 2016 9:53 pm

I have one in hand.... Just have to get everything to line up and replace it.

I was just wondering about how it looked to me... It had alot of fine to small rubber everywhere and some on the bottom of the pulleys. I dont know what a really old and worn one looks like, but it seems this one is to me. Also the slack in the belt and the trouble with aligning the pins doesn't seem normal.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Wed Jul 27, 2016 1:15 am

Your tensioner is very loose in those photos. It should be lined up with the spring wire. Can't tell the shape of the belt from your photos.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Jul 27, 2016 1:44 am

I can - You can see the cords in the valleys of the teeth! The tensioner also looks TERRIBLE, filthy and obviously original from all the corrosion of the aluminum on the inside surfaces.

I hope you have a full timing belt kit and not just the belt, because your water pump is guaranteed to also be original with the way that looks, and the bearing is not long for this world.

It is entirely possible that the pins will not both seat fully with the belt in this condition. You *can* rotate the crank a bit (less than a tooth) in either direction to assist in getting the pins in - But be aware that you don't have a lot of play there and you don't want to put a lot of tension on the cam that is already pinned. You might be better served by setting the crankshaft at perfectly vertical and horizontal (the bolt holes) with one of the cam pins in, and then just remove the belt and set the other pin manually with the belt off. You can rotate the cams until next Christmas with the crank at 90 ATDC and you won't hurt a thing. As long as you get that pin in, it is correctly set. Then use a counter-hold bar to hold the pulley against your own force while you break the torque loose. In case there is a question: DO NOT USE THE PINS TO TRY AND HOLD THIS TORQUE. They cannot hold that! They are LOCATING pins only, not locking pins.

Good luck, and buy a lotto ticket b/c your CRD was definitely lucky to last this long!

ryanchris · **Posted:** Wed Jul 27, 2016 7:29 am

I thought as much, and that it looked suspect... But it was supposed to have been changed per the previous owner... It is nuts to me how this thing can have over 20 check-ins and services at the dealer and not have the fuel heater / filter head changed, glow plugs, or the TB. Is there anything else that was a recalled / something I should probably change while I am changing everything else (Other than vavles or studs, not really looking to get any further in it at this point. Hopefully the water pump is my problem)!? Geez.

Also I did buy the whole idparts tb kit, not just the belt.

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

I agree with Geordi......buy a lottery ticket. All of the timing components look original. The idlers and tensioner that we removed from my wife's CRD at 101k looked new compared to those. Definitely replace all.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Wed Jul 27, 2016 2:23 pm

I will be replacing all of it as soon as I can get it pinned and whatnot. I will try what you have said with the crank pin and one cam pin see if that helps. Any other tips or prayers are welcome! I feel lucky that it lasted but not that it is going to be a hard tb to do since it might be alittle out of time.

Do I need to clean the inside of this with anything when the covers are both removed to try and get some rubber or whatever else out of them? What is something good to clean them with? Just brake clean? Just trying to not damage the dust seal or anything since I didn't see any that you could buy at quick glance.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Jul 27, 2016 6:03 pm

The dust seal for the inner cover is included in the timing belt kit. It is self adhesive, but not very important.

Brake cleaner will be just fine for spraying down the two covers.

As far as the crankshaft pin, just put that in a drawer and forget about it. I never use the thing. As long as you have one of the camshaft pins in, and you can see that the bolt holes in the hub are vertical and horizontal, the crankshaft pin would be able to go right in. But you don't have to use it. The crankshaft will not wander around on its own without quite a lot of force. But not having it in place, prevents you from forgetting it and possibly damaging the engine when you try to rotate it with that pin still there. Also, it allows you to adjust the crankshaft back-and-forth if perhaps where the camshaft is happy and pinned, the crank is not perfectly vertical or horizontal. Then you would need to take the belt off, and center up the crankshaft.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Wed Jul 27, 2016 7:25 pm

Got it all lined up and everything off. Took awhile but i managed to get all the pins in. Ended up taking out #1 injector to be sure where i was at. Only thing is the fuel injection pump does not line up with its witness mark. Should i line it up???

Also the waterpump still spun but it was harder to spin than the new one.. Not sure if that matters to my overheating issue or not.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Fri Jul 29, 2016 8:53 pm

Well I am done. Well not done.. But the timing belt is on. Not sure if it sounds right or not i never listened that close before hand. I did the glove trick and it doesnt blow out on the intake only sucks...But just trying to make sure i have everything in time.. How does this sound?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CcrNnN8rpE

undrgnd · **Joined:** Sat Mar 26, 2016 4:47 am **Posts:** 194

Is it just the camera movement or is your engine moving a lot. If it is, might be a great time to install some new motor mounts.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Sat Jul 30, 2016 1:26 am

Yeah it moves some... But i just figured that was normal for the them??? So you think i need motor mounts uh? But the engine sounds good? Just want to make sure before i reinstall everything.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jul 30, 2016 2:00 am

Here you go - this is what mine all sound like after:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5447172/CRD-After.mp4

Despite the suction test, I think you might have some rocker issues, it shouldn't be pulsing like that. That is usually an indication.
The biggest thing however: DON'T RUN IT WHILE THERE ISN'T ANY WATER! These are a wet-sleeve engine, which means that the cylinder liners are cooled directly by the water in direct contact with the back of the liners. I might start an engine dry just for a test, but don't run it any longer than about 5 seconds.

You probably didn't hurt anything, but this is a very bad habit to get into and anyone else that sees that video needs to know this. Never run it while dry.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Sat Jul 30, 2016 2:15 am

Gotcha. I had my tech friend come over and he said he didnt know enough about these engines to be sure but it sounded alright compared to the other videos we saw post tb install. Hard to tell really.

I didnt run it long, maybe a minute tops, but noted.

So i assume rockers are a common issue too? This is becoming a growing trend it seems. I bought some Motor Medic by Gunk MFD1 i plan on running before i change my oil. Think that will help the rockers? You think i am ok to put it back together? Kinda want to be done pumping money into it for now. I understand the rockers / vavles / head gasket could go at anytime... But man short of a complete engine overhaul how do you know you are ok? Just hoping its in time and i am not risking anything more messing up than what might have already been that way you know?

Overheating, need guidance

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