06 Liberty CRD 65k miles owner for 11 years NOOB here tho

kiki5x · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2016 1:51 pm

hi thanks for being out here and willing to answer my questions.

mechanic says code is
PO299
P0299-BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR POSITIVE DEVIATION

they've ordered the part and will be arriving 2 days.

i've got the following symptoms:

engine light on
loss of power
black smoke
WHOOSH sound while the tachometer goes between 1.5 and 2
while the speed stays constant at 30mph
i keep my foot on gas

I do have a video but not sure how to post.

RECENTLY REPLACED:

the EGR valve because the mechanic said we needed to
all maintenance and oil changes etc are up to date per Chrysler reco's

anyone have other ideas about what this might be? thanks, kiki

APC9199 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2016 2:37 pm

Sounds like a classic failed CAC hose to me. Pull the hose coming from the turbo to the intercooler and check for holes, tears and weeping oil spots or sponginess. Do the same for the hose going from the intercooler to the intake. If they show any sign of these problems, order a set of silicone ones from IDParts.com. They have their own name brand ones and they also sell SAMCO hoses. Not sure there is any advantage to having one or the other. I have the IDParts brand on both of my CRD's and they work great.

Since you are new here, I HIGHLY suggest going to the CRD tech section and reading Sam's CRD Newb Guide and following most of the stuff posted there. Do not bother with the "elephant mod", however. I would bet that will take care of all your problems.

I'm not sure if it is mentioned in the Newb Guide, but if you haven't changed the timing belt yet (based on mileage OR age) then you need to immediately!

SargeIndustries · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2016 2:42 pm

Black smoke can be caused by lack of enough air getting into motor. The whooshing sound is most likely a split in one of large hoses going to the intercooler. You will have to take them off to inspect. Sometimes they split on the bottom side of the hose.

cevans · **Joined:** Wed Aug 24, 2005 12:48 pm **Posts:** 278

I agree with above - your symptoms sound like a pressure leak in the intercooler and hose system, but the code should be "NEGATIVE DEVIATION" not positive deviation. That may be due to the type of scanner your mechanic uses - the engine just puts out the code, the scanner is the one that applies a label to that code. The Liberty has a...unique set of error codes, and I've spoken with countless people who went on wild-goose chases because their scan tool was translating the CRD codes incorrectly.

Firstly, I would not drive the car any further until you get the leak fixed as it is doing significant damage to your turbocharger and putting your engine at risk. Second, replace the hoses from the turbo to intercooler and intercooler to engine with a set of heavy duty silicone versions:
https://www.idparts.com/liberty-crd-sil ... -4804.html

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2016 3:20 pm

While at it check air box to turbo hose for classic tear on bottom just in front of turbo.

kiki5x · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2016 4:59 pm

this Forum is so great. thanks for answering me. yes, i have read the NOOB tech pinned post, and am EXHAUSTED each time i read it. funny right?

my dad and actually used some of the advice on the NOOB post to fix a prior problem. we watched the you tube tutorial to bleed air from the filter head. i honestly felt like a super hero that I could "fix" my car. can you tell I'm a female yet? and then the EGR valve arrived after 2 weeks, and was installed by the mechanic, and they took all the credit. anyway, my husband is completely NOT INTERESTED in fixing this car ourselves, and I am slightly more interested because it seems like the mechanic just does anything that pops into his head or computer and then its not really fixed. I am not complaining that he's not trying, I just think its a lot more mysterious than anyone is willing to admit. as one of you said, the codes are MYSTERIOUS and yes, i agree.

OK, so part 2 of my question, if I understand the NOOB guide correctly, it makes sense to disconnect the EGR valve? Or just don't worry about that yet?

Makes sense for me to order these $200 worth of hoses and have them installed? I don't think I can do it myself...

Also, am looking at older posts and seeing info about failures of hoses that can't be seen. see my cut and paste below.

"cannot speak to how many folks have had this failure but I know stoutdog has, he discovered his when swapping the OEM tstat for kap's upgrade only because he took this hose off for access. I've seen enough chat to add this to the things I check at every oil change though. Given the location of the failure and how invisible it is under normal circumstances and the serious downside of direct injection into the turbo of totally unfiltered outside air or water/mud/dust for off roaders it's an very easy failure to overlook and a potential straight line to catastrophic turbo and/or engine failure. My personal bet is there are a bunch of folks driving with a failed hose they simply cannot see. On that basis alone I for one would be happy to pay say $100 or so for a silicone install and forget it fix from Samco given that the stock replacement is ca. $60 and will ultimately fail again. I already happily shelled out for Samco radiator hoses for my CRD and stoutdog's before the stock hoses failed but then I'm the sort that likes to be a bit proactive with respect to addressing known likely failure points on the assumption it's cheaper in the long run.

On that basis, Sir Sam if you have a direct Samco contact I'd think it would be worth at least asking the question is a silicone replacement feasible and roughly what would be the per unit cost based on the assumption they want to make at least some money on the deal."

Rather Rumsfeldian "unknown unknown" and what if I just order a bunch of parts, bring them to our mechanic who is lovely just not interested in the mystery. Timing belt, I am seeing is a must. Yes I will bring baked goods and a smile to the lovely mechanic. As well as our debit chard.

What would you all order if you could have somebody else install? You don't suggest the EHM? A wish list, if you will...

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2016 6:03 pm

Go to IDparts.com and order:
A. Silicone intercooler hose kit
B. Turbocharger inlet hose
C. Timing belt kit

You can do all the turbo hoses youself. They are pretty easy.
You can also remove and clean the MAP sensor with brakecleaner.

You should probably let your mechanic do the timing belt. But this timing belt job can be difficult for even a experienced (or unknowledgable) mechanic. So look up all the instructions available online, print them up, give them to the mechanic, and show him the youtube videos.
Proper tools are required.
And if you want it done right, there are no shortcuts.

kiki5x · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2016 8:15 pm

flash7210 wrote:

Go to IDparts.com and order:
A. Silicone intercooler hose kit
B. Turbocharger inlet hose
C. Timing belt kit

You can do all the turbo hoses youself. They are pretty easy.
You can also remove and clean the MAP sensor with brakecleaner.

You should probably let your mechanic do the timing belt. But this timing belt job can be difficult for even a experienced (or unknowledgable) mechanic. So look up all the instructions available online, print them up, give them to the mechanic, and show him the youtube videos.
Proper tools are required.
And if you want it done right, there are no shortcuts.

again, thanks, I will keep thanking you all. Grateful for your wisdom and advice. and sharing the joys heartache of owning a CRD Jeep.

Got it about the Timing belt. The husband says our mechanic already did it. I will poke around with them next week to find out when it was done. ordering hoses now. really you think I can install the hoses? WOW. I hope so. Where could I find the youtubes for changing these hoses?

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2016 8:45 pm

I'd definitely make sure that the timing belt has been done. It isn't something to not be certain of. Recommended interval is 100k or 6 years. Delete the egr either with a gde tune or weeks kit or off road mod(unplugging the maf)

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2016 8:58 pm

I hate to rain in with some negativity but:
1. please update your signature with your location in case there is someone who knows CRDs in your general vicinity
2. I have somewhat less than zero trust in a mechanic who immediately replaces the EGR valve; that's about the first part a dealer throws at any CRD problem including air in the fuel filter head. An EGR valve can be removed and cleaned. In fact the EGR valve can be turned off by simply unplugging the MAF sensor although that will turn on a CEL but it's a simply way to see if a bad EGR valve is causing a problem. Ideally get a GDE ECU tune to turn off the EGR and do lots of other good things but if you don't have the needed $s there are plenty of ECU tunes that turn off the EGR and the associated CEL
3. I've got a "C" note or three that the mechanic did not replace the timing belt and does not have a clue how to replace the timing belt and would not follow instructions if they were provided (it's not technically hard and does not require tools that cannot easily be made/rented but it is finicky). Doing so requires removal of lots of stuff on the front of the engine, see the videos in the NOOB guide. I bet all that was replaced was the serpentine belt, which is good, but failure to correctly and timely replace the timing belt will cause lots of expensive things to break.
4. if you don't mind a bit of grease on your hands you can remove/replace/install new intercooler and airbox to turbo hoses with a simply long shaft slotted screwdriver although an appropriate ratchet and socket with long extensions works a bit better. A word of advice on reinstall.
a. make sure airbox to turbo hose upper end is touching the MAF sensor and don't over tighten the clamp on the plastic airbox outlet lest you crush it, been there done that.
b. the OEM intercooler hoses have a witness mark ("V") where they fit on the intercooler plastic inlet/outlet but the Samcos to not (don't know about idParts hoses). If no witness mark fit the hose onto both ends; carefully check the routing to make sure they are not rubbing anywhere; then tighten clamps (godzilla is not need just good and tight; if doing new hoses be sure fittings they go onto are free of grease before install; some have had hoses pop loose and found a reclean of hose inside and fitting outside combined with a light application of sticky hair spray solves the problem)
5. yes you can clean the MAF sensor with brake cleaner but be careful of the direction you spray as that black crud will forever stain what it touches (cheap nylex gloves from a local hardware store are your friend). There is a tiny washer, not critical, between the sensor and valve cover that you should try not to loses. On reinstall a bit of light weight oil on the "O" ring and a twisting motion as you push down are both helpful.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2016 10:34 pm

jws84_02 wrote:

Delete the egr either with a gde tune or weeks kit or off road mod(unplugging the maf)

Or simply just blank off the EGR feed tube; instructions are on this forum....>http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76576&hilit
Cost is almost nothing but your time!!! :wink:

kiki5x · **Posted:** Fri Sep 16, 2016 11:45 pm

Papindigo:

1. done, yes i get it. NOOB all the way around.
2. less than zero. yup. i need a different, interested, mechanic. clearly.
3. yes. serpentine belt is ringing a bell. roger that, need to replace the timing belt. how spendy is it? because that might jog my memory. i am the one who does the accounting around here.
4. don't mind grease. will keep your a and b instructions close.
5. ok.

thank you.

joe_ · **Posted:** Sat Sep 17, 2016 12:22 am

kiki5x wrote:

Also, am looking at older posts and seeing info about failures of hoses that can't be seen. see my cut and paste below.

"cannot speak to how many folks have had this failure but I know stoutdog has, he discovered his when swapping the OEM tstat for kap's upgrade only because he took this hose off for access. I've seen enough chat to add this to the things I check at every oil change though. Given the location of the failure and how invisible it is under normal circumstances and the serious downside of direct injection into the turbo of totally unfiltered outside air or water/mud/dust for off roaders it's an very easy failure to overlook and a potential straight line to catastrophic turbo and/or engine failure. My personal bet is there are a bunch of folks driving with a failed hose they simply cannot see. On that basis alone I for one would be happy to pay say $100 or so for a silicone install and forget it fix from Samco given that the stock replacement is ca. $60 and will ultimately fail again. I already happily shelled out for Samco radiator hoses for my CRD and stoutdog's before the stock hoses failed but then I'm the sort that likes to be a bit proactive with respect to addressing known likely failure points on the assumption it's cheaper in the long run.

On that basis, Sir Sam if you have a direct Samco contact I'd think it would be worth at least asking the question is a silicone replacement feasible and roughly what would be the per unit cost based on the assumption they want to make at least some money on the deal."

I think what they're referring to there is the Turbocharger Inlet Hose, the rubber hose that connects the air cleaner box to the turbocharger inlet: http://www.idparts.com/turbocharger-inl ... -3804.html
It's known to fall apart over time due to constant exposure to oil from the crankcase ventilation system.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 17, 2016 7:27 am

WWDiesel wrote:

jws84_02 wrote:

Delete the egr either with a gde tune or weeks kit or off road mod(unplugging the maf)

Or simply just blank off the EGR feed tube; instructions are on this forum....>http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76576&hilit
Cost is almost nothing but your time!!! :wink:

Ah yep, forgot that one

Op, I'd say timing belt ranges anywhere from $1000-$2000. That's parts and labor. In rare cases I have seen dealers quote beyond that. I just opened one up that had the "mark and pray" method and when I finally got the cams locked the crank witness mark was at about 2 o'clock. This one had paperwork that a dealer did the job

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Sep 17, 2016 9:16 am

kiki5x - timing belt cost in parts $400 (http://www.idparts.com/timing-belt-kit- ... 93ff018991). It's a not terribly difficult DIY job (I can send you info if you email me) that involves a few "special" tools that can either be rented; made; or in some cases purchased relatively cheap. However, I would not advise a DIY unless you are comfortable digging into engines. So what to do:
1. if, in fact, your 06 has 65k miles AND you know for a fact (only acceptable proof is a receipt that lists labor and parts or testimony of a reputable LOST member for example - anyone who says they "looked" at the belt and it's ok is lying) that the TB job has been done and when you are ok. If not the TB job needs to be done right now so to speak. While the manual says every 100,000 miles in reality it should be every 6 yrs or 100,000 miles whichever comes first.
2. who to do the work if not you. Ideally an experience LOST member (geordi is great but likely too far away unless he has several west coast jobs) so put out a request for help. Check viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60730 for some place near enough to drive. Avoid dealer unless they have done several belts AND can put you in touch with the customers whose belts were done. It is possible another diesel service place can do the work but I would not go that route unless then have done some CRD belts, see dealer comment, or they agree to follow provided instructions exactly and under your in shop supervision (no stupid insurance won't let us do that comments accepted)

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Sep 17, 2016 1:06 pm

Listen to everyone, they are giving you some good sound advice and trying to help steer you in the right direction! :wink:

Performing a timing belt & water pump replacement on a Jeep Liberty CRD is very unique operation with some special tools required to perform the service. Most dealer mechanics have never even seen one of these vehicles let alone performed a timing belt replacement on one!

I am an older experienced mechanic and I have performed hundreds of timing belt and timing chain jobs but I had never seen anything like the Jeep CRD when I replaced the belt and waterpump on one I purchased a few years back. It is not a real bad job, but it MUST be done precisely as required using the correct tools to have the correct outcome! Done incorrectly, the resulting damage can be catastrophic due to this being an interference engine meaning the valves can actually hit the pistons if not timed correctly... :roll:

There are some Youtube videos available that can be viewed that will walk you through the process correctly provided you have the necessary special tools.... :google:

Link to a five part series on how to:>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5o_FJpBEKjk
Note: Some opt to skip removing the front bumper, grill, intercooler, and radiator when performing the job, but it does make everything much easier to get at and see clearly especially for a first timer...

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:53 pm

Agree with above first replace intercooler hoses and after this if confirmed to run normally unplug the MAF (mass air flow sensor) that is on the air intake filter box but this will cause a check engine light but will disable the EGR valve until you may want to deal with it another way.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:56 pm

You can generally get places like auto zone to pull the codes without taking it to mechanic at no charge then search forum for possible causes and diagnosis without taking it to mechanic.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Sep 18, 2016 9:45 pm

TKB4 wrote:

You can generally get places like auto zone to pull the codes without taking it to mechanic at no charge then search forum for possible causes and diagnosis without taking it to mechanic.

They DO NOT do this in california anymore. Some law changed.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Sep 18, 2016 9:48 pm

kiki5x wrote:

hi thanks for being out here and willing to answer my questions.

mechanic says code is
PO299
P0299-BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR POSITIVE DEVIATION

they've ordered the part and will be arriving 2 days.

Find a better mechanic.

They pulled a code so they decided to replace parts based on that? Perfectly willing to throw parts at it until it is fixed without actually diagnosing anything.

06 Liberty CRD 65k miles owner for 11 years NOOB here tho

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