Congrats on your WK CRD purchase. There are quite a bit of WK CRD gurus on
http://www.jeepforum and that is where I go for help on my WK CRD.
A couple of things key to the WK CRD:
Oil changes: Use MB spec oil 229.51 (either 5w30 or 5w40-I use 5w40 exclusively)
Half of oil during oil change is added via the oil filter assembly and the other half via the oil cap fill hole. This is per a TSB to prevent front bearing damage during start after an oil change.
Swirl Motor failure is very common. It is a $4,500 dealer repair but a 30 cent 4.7K ohm resister (google it) added to the swirl motor plug is the best and most cost effective means to resolve this issue. I've been running the resistor mod for about 30k miles.
Keep eye out for oil leaks. The oil cooler gasket is made from an inferior material and labor is thousands of dollars to get to it.
Elephant Hose mod or crankcase ventilation filter is a must! I'm getting about 6 oz of oil every 4k miles in my Provent CCV filter.
There is a recall for gear shifter where the vehicle can pop out of gear even though it is in park. Please use parking brake at all times. The recall is known to cause loss of 4x4 low
A 4 dollar splash shield from dealership for the alternator will prevent premature alternator failure from oil leaking out of the 710 cap
Turbo actuators fail between 75-95k miles. Dealership will sell you a new turbo and charge you over 6k for labor and parts. You can get the actuator rebuilt. I got a rebuilt from England form
http://www.turbovanes.com for cheap.
A hot tune is great and really awakens the motor. A DPF delete would be even better!
Make sure battery doesn't leak acid. The ECU is directly under the battery and a boiling battery damaged my harness plug to the ECU.
A loud whining noise from your in tank fuel pump is probably a bad flow control valve on your high pressure fuel pump in the engine bay. Dealer will sell you a new fuel tank fuel pump but the real problem is the CP3 high pressure fuel pump. Dealership can't replace the flow control valve but will try to sell you a new CP3 pump.
Don't abort a dpf regeneration. Before shutting engine down, an active regeneration is accompanied by slightly higher engine rpm at idle and a weird "plastic" odor in air. If you notice this, keep driving for at least 15-20 minutes, preferably on the highway. A DPF delete would eliminate worrying about DPF regenerations.