First off, I want to thank everyone for the great resources on this forum. I purchased a 2006 Blue jeep liberty (112k) about 6 months ago. Love the jeep, it's only left me on the side of the road once ( issue with fuel system, for some reason after a long trip the jeep will not pull the last 1/4 of a tank ( 2-4 gallons ), replaced filters and have a lift pump on order ) This forum has really helped and I look forward to being able to help other CRD fans.

After a recent oil change. I noticed oil around the intake flange post EGR. I have a weeks stage 1 and 2 kit about to go on. I do have an intermittent P0299 code and silicon CAC hoses on order also. Is this just a seal leaking under boost pressure or do I have a bigger problem coming? according the the PO the turbo was replaced at 75k, exhaust side valves and rockers at 85k Intake CAM and rockers inspected and reinstalled after it dropped an exhaust valve. I'm going to take off the Turbo hose and check for shaft play once the motor cools.




Anyone ever seen anything like this? I searched and did not find a similar post. Thanks everyone.

A little further,

The PO had been using Mobil 1 0-w40... Not sure if the diesel rated or the gasser, he was changing on a 3200 mile interval according to his maintenance logs. I switched to Rotella T6 5w40 on this last oil change because it's a lot cheaper when I buy it though the shop at work.

If i start off too quick on a cold start, the engine and transmission will shutter like the TC is not disengaging the when I move too quickly. Idling for a minute or so corrects the problem. So with rare exception I let it idle at least 3-4 minutes before starting off. I had a similar problem in my 12 valve dodge and out of habit normally idle that truck for the same amount of time to let the motor get warmed up. It's a little challenging for late night fire calls, so I see a remote starter in my near future so I can warm it up while I get dressed.

Last thing. slight injector like tick at idle. my understanding from research is this is pretty normal.

Running the Yeti Mild tune with EGR delete ( THANKS ) and have cleaned the MAP sensor recently ( same day I initially spotted the oil and cleaned it. )

I have a 200 mile road trip tomorrow, going to carry my weeks kit and spare oil just in case.

It looks like it might be loose or possibly the gasket is on its way out. I'd get the weeks kit on as soon as you can. It comes with a fresh gasket so that should cure that problem

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

Wait... It dropped an exhaust valve and they DIDN'T have to rebuild the motor?
It dropped the valve at 85k miles? That would be BY FAR the lowest mileage I've heard about for a confirmed valve drop.

Did they save the bits?

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
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Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I shot the PO an email to find out. I found once invoice that states valve, the dealer quoted a new motor. I can't find an invoice for rockers or cam shaft. geordi did you happen to do a rocker/valve job on one near hixen TN?

Turbo checked out, but the intake hose died in the process. disintegrated in my hands while removing it so looks like I get to drive the gasser to south Georgia in the morning.

If I plan on doing the elephant hose mod do I have to reinstall the factory airbox to turbo hose or can I use a generic?

Short answer, yes.
Although I dont know where you would find a generic intake hose that will fit.

Long answer, DONT DO THE EHM.
Its ok as a temporary fix to get you back on the road but for a permanent fix you need a Provent.

You should also clean out your MAP sensor because its probably coated in oil and EGR soot.
Get that Weeks kit installed asap.
And at some point you should consider cleaning out the intercooler. It probably has a good collection of oil inside.

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U.S. Army Retired