https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNJ72VcJPfE

Just over 200K. Can't quite tell what the noise is, except very loud. Stethoscope to the valve cover and everything sounds normal?


I have no idea if lifers were ever done, and it has original injectors. Every video I've found of lifter issues has sounded....different. Any Ideas?

Its very intermittent. Kinda like a wood pecker.

You can try runing the engine without the accesory belt to see if the noise goes away.

But I suspect the noise is coming from underneath the timing belt cover. This could potentially be very bad.
If that noise is the timing belt slapping around inside it wont be long before it breaks.
At 200k miles its due for its 2nd timing belt change.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I put a new alternator on mine today and it made the same noise. The rebuilder put the cheapest POS clutch pulley on the rebuild. I put the old clutch pulley from my old alternator on the new one and all is well again.

I'd remove the serpentine belt and see if it makes the noise. Also check your pulley's to make sure they aren't shot.

That's a good point. The alternator is fresh (2 months?) from a local re-builder, who really pushed putting a standard pulley on. I had them install the clutched pulley, as that's what it had from factory.


I'm going to drop the belt and see if the noise go's away. Even if the pulley solves the problem - I'm going to plan on changing the timing belt. PO took great care of this Jeep, I recall him saying it was done at 120k (I'll check the paperwork.)


Thanks! I'll update in a few days with the results.

If you are due a TB change, don't forget to change your water pump while you are in there. Try avoiding any parts made by a company that rhymes with Crown.

Timing was done at a dealership with customer provided parts at 160K. The Customer was the PO, an engineer at DetroitDiesel. One would hope he provided oe/oem parts (or better.) Same PO that put in a higher stall converter, new non-ceramic GP's and a greendiesel tune (hot engine tune, trans tune)


It'll need one soon, but shouldn't be the problem.


Waterpump and associated parts were changed. I don't know how anyone does a TB change without doing the rest while you're there!



If I wake up early enough I'll pull the serp tomorrow (Haven't been driving it.) My guess is indeed the clutched alt pulley or an idler/tensioner. One can only hope!

Mine made a similar sound when the alt pulley went bad and like you thought it was something more serious.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

Another thing it could be is the crank pulley/dampener. The rubber does break down and it will cause an intermittent knock/noise. Have to take it off and check the rear of it if the noise doesn't go away trying the first thing

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

It's not anything connected to the serpentine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fi5t5F2M5Cc


It almost sounds like a heat-shield rattling around. The crank pulley does look like it's seen better days, but without a belt attached it under no load: so it shouldn't matter?

Plot thickens.

Upon crawling under the jeep with flashlight in hand, looking for anything off-place and this little guys greets me.


http://imgur.com/a/SvpXN


Found under the motor on the ground, right behind the splash shield. It's stripped, and it's a high-grade bolt that looks to have seen some rough times. Is it related? -I think so. Only thing is, after twenty minutes of searching; I can't seem to find where this bolt called home.

Flexplate.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/flexp ... g-1385097/


Taking the inspection cover off right now.

Ummmm.... I'm not certain but I think that's a flex plate bolt

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

Never before have I had the diagnosis literally fall right in front of me.


How does one inspect the flexplate? I see nothing as far as inspection hole's go.

There should be a remove able plug on the bell housing. That will get you to be able to inspect the torque converter bolts. The flex plate bolts you will have to remove the tranny for them if I'm not mistaken. I'm trying to figure out how one made it out if in facts it is one of those bolts

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

Which begs the question...

How exactly did they fall OUT??

You can remove the starter to inspect and remove the remaining TC bolts.
Then get to work pulling the transmission.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I honestly had no clue how it dropped out. The fact that it dropped while parked, in the driveway makes me even more curious. Must be a jeep thing: "Hey, I'm broken, here's where"



I just replaced the starter in the beginning of summer, so it should be easy to pull again. Anyone got the writeup handy for pulling this trans? Or should I thumb though the FSM?

The transmission and transfer case is one huge MFer.
If you dont have a lift and transmission jack, you are going to need someone to help you.
But other than that...

Remove the drive shafts
Remove torque conterver bolts
Disconnect the wiring harness connectors
Disconnect the shifter linkages and cables
Disconnect the trans cooler lines
Support the transmission with appropriate jack
Unbolt the transmission crossmember
Lower transmission slightly
Remove bellhousing bolts
Gently and carefully remove transmission

If I'm missing anything, consult the manual

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Solved: https://imgur.com/gallery/iGrSp


Time to drop the trans.

There's a little inspection port above the starter, that's how the bolt escaped.

I'm having trouble sourcing parts. I'm going to replace the flex plate, and it's bolts. Whats the best source for these, and what else should I do while the trans is out? Rear main seal?

Per GreedDiesel:


1. Disconnect battery.
2. Make sure vehicle is secured on a lift or up at least 10 inches on jack stands.
3. A tranny jack is a must for supporting the trans after disconnecting from engine.
4. Remove mechanical fan with a large crescent wrench or equivalent. May need to hold the fan hub pulley in place while hitting the wrench with a hammer, it is a standard thread so left to loosen.
5. Remove wiring from starter and remove starter (3 bolts).
6. Remove torque converter access plug, located just above starter.
7. Remove front skid plate (4 bolts).
8. Pull transmission line connector off the attachment stud on the bottom side of oil pan. This provides enough play so trans cooler lines do not have to be disconnected.
9. Remove front propshaft (NOTE: use paint pen to mark both shafts when removing so they are re-installed in same orientation this will make sure the balance is maintained), may need to use a punch to pop out CV joint after bolts are loose as it tends to freeze in position. Having the trans in neutral may make disassembly easier.
10. Remove 4 bolts holding rear driveshaft to axle, let the drive shaft hang down.
11. Disconnect the two exhaust hanger isolators from the crossmember.
12. The front hub on the engine has a 20-21mm nut that is used to rotate the engine over clockwise to get the 4 torque converter bolts to line up in the access window just above the starter.
13. Line up each TC bolt in window and remove one at a time, then rotate engine 90 degrees and proceed with next bolt until all four are removed.
14. Remove all the bolts holding the transmission to the engine, minus the two that are on the topside of the trans.
15. Remove the six crossmember bolts, while having a jack supporting the transmission.
16. Lower the transmission as far as it will go, now you will have access to the two bolts at the top of the trans that are still holding it to the engine (keep slight pressure on the jack).
17. Use a swivel and long extension to reach the two bolts from underneath the vehicle, the approach should be from the driver’s side of the vehicle.
18. Jack up tranny a little bit and then pull the unit rearward until it disconnects from engine.
19. Disconnect the 10mm bolt that holds the transmission dipstick to the trans. Pull the dipstick upward until it pops out of tranny (may need to lower tranny for this).
20. Now the unit can be lowered and pushed further back so the torque converter can be removed.
21. Make sure have a drip pan underneath bell housing when removing converter as 1 to 3 quarts of fluid will drain out of converter.
22. Re-install in reverse order, make sure to align the dowel pins on the engine adapter plate to the bell housing and tighten one attachment bolt to pull the units back together.
23. Note when installing the four bolts that hold the torque converter to the flywheel. Get all 4 bolts installed one at a time, but just hand tighten and back out ¼ turn until all four are installed. Then torque each one and finally complete a torque check on each bolt after the sequence is complete. There is no sense to short cut this and risk a torque converter becoming loose.

What the chance I can be REALLY lazy and just do this step, in reverse?


I really don't want to drop the trans out if I don't have too. From the looks of it, just these four bolts are the root cause. They've backed out enough to run into the bellhousing.