Title says it all, managed to shear off one of the bolts and then discovered that they are reversed threaded... bugger! Next issue is going to be getting the slug that's left out of the bracket (the one that holds the alternator).




Q. Can the alternator bracket be removed from engine without tearing too much apart?

If you don't know these bolts are REVERSE THREADED, you going to have a bad day
Simon.

PS. Who in their right mind would make a fan shield that can't be removed from the vehicle without removing the fan first? Time for a saw...

Hi - just done this on our 2.8 CRD - the alternator is quite easily removed - disconnect the battery first otherwise you'll have a live wire floating around.

There's two plastic multi clips to detach, a 13mm bolt under a cover on the top of the alternator holds down the main feed to the battery (this is the one that's live if battery not disconnected). Once you have the wires off there's two bolts on the front of the alternator (that also hold on a round fitting that supports one of the engine cover mountings) - remove those plus one to the back of the alternator that bolts through the support bracket.
Look along the bracket and you'll see a further two bolts into the block - these can just be slackened off to allow you to wiggle the alternator off - access to all these bolts is good especially if you have an extension bar for a socket set.

If you're going to take the pulley off the alternator then try rattling it off with an air gun - I spent hours breaking various different tools as I was too lazy to fetch the compressor and gun - once I had it was literally seconds to spin the thing off.

Graeme

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2005 RHD KJ 2.8 CRD 4x4

Pretty sure op was asking about the bracket that holds the idler. If that's the case and you mean the one directly below the alt, then good luck, that is all one piece and part of the injection pump bracket. The pump would have to come off and then you could get to the bolts to unbolt it from the block. My suggestion would be if you can't get the stub out, just run without it. Pretty sure our stick belts are short enough to run without it. If not, go with a little bit shorter belt

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

A lot of owners simply cut the shroud in half and discard the bottom half and only reinstall the top half. Myself and a few others cut the shroud in half and add some pieces to the bottom half so it attaches to the top half at the separation point. This allows you to keep the bottom half in place and only remove the top half of the shroud when needed...

As to the sheared bolt; drill it out starting with a small drill bit! In this case being it is a left handed threaded bolt, the drill bit as it drills into the metal will be trying to spin what remains out of the hole. Be sure and center punch the broken piece in dead center before drilling. Start with a small like 1/8 drill and slowly move up in sizes till it comes out. Cannot use any of the normal easyout type tools or such since they are all designed for normal right hand threads! Do not believe I have ever seen a left handed easyout type tool?
Best of luck on this one and keep us posted on outcome!!!!

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

You need a left hand screw extractor. If it doesn't come out with drilling you can try tapping the hole you created and use a standard RH threaded bolt as an extractor. Alternatively you can get straight fluted extractors that work in either direction.

Maybe what wwdiesel said will work. It should, if you manage to center your hole perfectly, and then increase the bit size till there is just a tiny bit of the bolt left over. Then you can use a regular bolt or regular tap, smaller than the bolt size, when you thread it in it will unscrew the broken bolt.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

So after the 200mile round trip to 'local' dealer to pick up the parts (yeah rural Alberta!), getting a speeding ticket on the way there (10 over) and buying an right angle air drill... I was ready to attempt drilling it out. I rounded off a nut to sit in the bracket as a guide for a punch.


A few taps with the hammer and... surprise! I found out what I thought was part of the bracket, was actually part of the pulley assembly. Leaving the tail of the bolt exposed. I was able to put a grove in it with a cut off wheel and turn it out with a flat-blade socket bit.




Hooray, belt it back on. Have to reconnect the coolant pipes and re-fill before the job's complete, but now I'm a lot happier. Thanks for the suggestions/help, and hopefully no-one else make the same screw up I did.


Full res pictures here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/24244464@ ... 3525200115

Expensive lesson no doubt!!! OUCH!!!

Glad it turned out OK, turned out kinda funny!!!!!!

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Look at the bright side, now you have an angle drill, lol. Nice job pulling it out!

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.