turbo inlet hose

its1louder · **Posted:** Wed Sep 21, 2016 7:19 pm

I am about to replace the turbo inlet hose for the second time in two years. Last time, the failure of this part caused the demise of my turbo and I spent labor day weekend swapping the turbo myself. This is such a known point of failure, I don't understand why there is no aftermarket silicone replacement hose here, like the CAC hoses.

I am also replacing one of the mishimoto cac hoses, I didn't know they could wear out but apparently it has, I can't get it to clamp onto the EGR inlet anymore. I think it has deformed and perhaps is too loose to be clamped on the inlet.

I recently did some towing in hot weather. Although the engine temperature indicator never did anything unusual I am wondering if higher heat and turbo pressure combined to weaken the cac hose. I don't havea turbo timer but I was careful to take extra time letting it idle after running to cool down the turbo. I am wondering what solution people use for egt gauge or boost gauge. Looking for something easy to install under the hood, not too worried about how to install on my dash. Anyway having these two indicators might help me track the health of my turbo/air intake system which is such a weakness in these CRDs.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Sep 21, 2016 9:58 pm

Install a ProVent filter like many of us on this forum have done between the CVV and the rubber inlet hose going to the turbo, it will stop the majority of the oil going into the inlet hose and the deterioration to the rubber hose and boost hoses it causes.
Get and install a Weeks elbow kit and throw that crappy FCV, EGR valve, and EGR cooler in the trash where they really belong. Then install one of the no cost tunes available on this forum to disable the check engine light that will be triggered by removing the above items.
Then drive your Jeep CRD and enjoy the trouble free performance you will obtain by making these small modifications and improvements... :wink:

There is much information on this forum on how to do all of the above if you do a search!!!

mass-hole · **Posted:** Wed Sep 21, 2016 11:39 pm

I wouldn't expect the drivers side mishimoto hose to ever be that hot seeing as it's after the CAC. My guess is the air flowing through it is like 170-180f at most.

The passenger side would be much hotter. Like in the 350F range.

its1louder · **Posted:** Thu Sep 22, 2016 2:25 pm

Quote:

I wouldn't expect the drivers side mishimoto hose to ever be that hot seeing as it's after the CAC. My guess is the air flowing through it is like 170-180f at most.

The passenger side would be much hotter. Like in the 350F range.

Yes, except isn't the gas from the EGR hot? I have the GDE mild tuning. When I first got the jeep the hose would pop off the EGR all the time at high boost and I theorized it was boost air plus EGR gas over pressuring the hose clamp. When I got the GDE tune and the EGR was inerted, this problem went away for many years and probably 75K miles, until last week. Now no matter what I do I can't get the sucker to stay on. I ordered replacement CAC hoses, this time the IDParts version, which comes with nice stainless t-bolt clamps.

I've thought about installing the provent but I have sort of resigned to just checking and replacing the inlet hose every other year. But now it looks like its really every year. I see lots of oil and grime around the CVV making me think that the turbo inlet has failed again, venting the crank case vapor, even if I don't see any loss of power yet. I really need to get a boost, exhaust gas temp indicator.

its1louder · **Posted:** Thu Sep 22, 2016 2:28 pm

Still curious about my original question though - is there a reason no one has made a silicone turbo inlet hose? It seems like there are 3 outfits making silicone CAC hoses. What's one more hose? The part that attaches the turbo can get really hot and abused and silicone should be more resistant to the Crank case vapors ...

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Sep 22, 2016 3:55 pm

Two comments:
1. air box to turbo hose - Folks have investigated a silicone replacement but apparently the market is too small. That said that hose should last 30-50K (mine made it to 56 but my son's only to ca. 35) miles even without a Provent and longer with one.
2. driver side CAC hose - I think you have your terms a bit confused. That hose does not connect to the EGR rather it connects to the Flow Control Valve which connects to the intake manifold elbow. Given that this hose is upstream from the intercooler and that the EGR connects to that elbow "upstream" from FCV this hose should not get all that hot. There have been reports of this hose popping off but they are generally associated with oil on the inside of the hose and/or outside of FCV hose mounting flange and inadequate clamps. Solution - clean oil and use a bit of "sticky" hair spray to improve holding power and try "T" clamps or constant force clamps not the traditional worm clamps.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 22, 2016 4:02 pm

I made my own turbo inlet tube with a 90deg aluminum elbow and two silicone adapters.
It worked quite well but had no place to attach the CCV hose and forced me to do the EHM.
I am now using a factory inlet hose and a provent.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Sep 23, 2016 11:58 am

If you have oil and filth on the top of the valve cover around the CCV puck, that is not because of any degradation of the inlet hose. It is because there is not a hose clamp on the CCV outlet, and the hot air softens and expands that rubber hose and allows it to weep / leak past the connector.

A hose clamp there will resolve that mess, and the inlet hose does last about 60k miles but shouldn't ever cause a turbo failure unless you have a MASSIVE amount of oil going into the turbo or you are using a K&N air filter. A provent is the solution to the oil issue, and just don't ever use a K&N filter on these. Paper filters only.

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

its1louder wrote:

Still curious about my original question though - is there a reason no one has made a silicone turbo inlet hose?

We are currently working on a solution for the intake hose.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The clean air duct from air box to turbo is a fairly complicated mold and most like not cheap to replicate in silicon material. The ribbing on the stock part allows for movement during engine mount excursion (full engine roll). Make sure any aftermarket part accounts for this or it will suffer reduced lifespan as this powertrain has plenty or roll. The stock part is not silicon and oil permeates the rubber, weakening the material until it rots out next to the turbo connection.

On the CAC hoses, engine roll just sways the material a bit. The inlet duct is compressed/elongated with engine roll and this tends to lead to more wear on rubber parts.

undrgnd · **Joined:** Sat Mar 26, 2016 4:47 am **Posts:** 194

weeks101 wrote:

its1louder wrote:

Still curious about my original question though - is there a reason no one has made a silicone turbo inlet hose?

We are currently working on a solution for the intake hose.

Intresting!!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Sep 24, 2016 12:09 pm

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

The clean air duct from air box to turbo is a fairly complicated mold and most like not cheap to replicate in silicon material. The stock part is not silicon and oil permeates the rubber, weakening the material until it rots out next to the turbo connection.

Simple solution to stop the oil going into the air intake hose and rotting it out is to install a ProVent CCV filter as many on this forum have already done! :wink:

Good information and read on the ProVent filter:>https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user_upload/service/catalogues/pdf/ProVent_en_2013.pdf

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

weeks101 wrote:

its1louder wrote:

Still curious about my original question though - is there a reason no one has made a silicone turbo inlet hose?

We are currently working on a solution for the intake hose.

Good to know. I installed a Provent on our CRD at 46k miles in 7/2014. At that time the original inlet hose showed very slight deterioration. I checked the hose again a couple months ago at 101k miles. The hose appeared OK, but had more deterioration. Changing the hose every 100k miles isn't terrible, but I would prefer a different design that I will never replace again. I fully expect to get 300k miles from this CRD.

Ceearedeedriver · **Joined:** Fri May 06, 2016 8:44 pm **Posts:** 177

weeks101 wrote:

We are currently working on a solution for the intake hose.

Nice! Some more details, an eta and a target price would be useful for those of us that are currently close to replacement. I don't mind waiting a couple of months for a quality hose replacement at a reasonable price point but I'd just pick up the Mopar hose now if you're planning.a $500 intake redesign that's going to take a year to implement.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Sep 25, 2016 5:22 pm

Ceearedeedriver wrote:

weeks101 wrote:

We are currently working on a solution for the intake hose.

Nice! Some more details, an eta and a target price would be useful for those of us that are currently close to replacement. I don't mind waiting a couple of months for a quality hose replacement at a reasonable price point but I'd just pick up the Mopar hose now if you're planning.a $500 intake redesign that's going to take a year to implement.

You mean the upcoming "MODEL OOA HOT MESS INTAKE AND CAPS LOCK UPGRADE" option? :ROTFL:

I can't see how anyone could craft something that cost much more than the factory design, if it can be molded for fabrication, then duplication should be cheap. I'm excited to see the details.

its1louder · **Posted:** Mon Sep 26, 2016 2:36 pm

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

The clean air duct from air box to turbo is a fairly complicated mold and most like not cheap to replicate in silicon material. The ribbing on the stock part allows for movement during engine mount excursion (full engine roll). Make sure any aftermarket part accounts for this or it will suffer reduced lifespan as this powertrain has plenty or roll. The stock part is not silicon and oil permeates the rubber, weakening the material until it rots out next to the turbo connection.

On the CAC hoses, engine roll just sways the material a bit. The inlet duct is compressed/elongated with engine roll and this tends to lead to more wear on rubber parts.

This explanation makes a lot of sense to me, thanks.

The new silicone hoses I ordered come with t-bolt clamps so perhaps that will help. I also ordered a new turbo inlet just because I am skittish about it. Last time it failed in the classic way and a hunk of debris went down the turbo, that's why I had to replace it. I could see a glob of melted rubber on the goes-inta side of the turbo when I took it out. My mechanic wanted $7K to replace it so I did it myself at a cost of about $1300 and a three day weekend. Going forward I'd rather pay $60 for new inlet hoses early and often. Taking it out is the only way to inspect it so as I will have it out I will swap the new one in anyway. Got a new crankcase tube too so I will attach with hose clamps this time as geordi suggested.

weeks101 wrote:

We are currently working on a solution for the intake hose.

This is relevant to my interests. any way to incorporate a catch can in its design? I've resisted getting the provent or EHM because I live in CA and want to keep it looking stock for smog inspections. Until last week I thought the tune and silicone hoses had solved my problems, something like 50k miles with no problems. The oil inside the silicone hoses definitely makes it harder to put hoses back on but other than that I didn't see any problems while they were not popping off. Anyway I am pretty good at metal fabrication and could make a solid mount for the provent but I don't know that it will ever look stock.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Apr 04, 2021 11:03 pm

If you have not done so lately, you may need to check your turbo inlet hose/boot for cracks.
I recently purchased the Samco silicone turbo inlet hose/boot from SasquatchParts.com while Seth had it on sale.
Good thing I did, when I removed my OEM rubber hose, it was cracked and busted.
I may have busted it when pulling it off the turbo, but it definitely was soft and rotten!

I replaced it about 5 years ago when I installed the ProVent 200 filter/separator.
The Samco silicone turbo inlet hose/boot is by far a superior product and should last for a very long time.
Hopefully oil vapors will not affect it much.

New Samco silicone hose installed:

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

Looks great WWD!

Can I have your permission to use your photo of the factory hose on SasquatchParts.com?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Apr 12, 2021 10:11 pm

weeks101 wrote:

Looks great WWD!
Can I have your permission to use your photo of the factory hose on SasquatchParts.com?

Yes, sure, use it! If you need some more, let me know.

Thanks for providing us with a much better and improved option to replace the flimsy OEM rubber intake hose that seems to rot out every few years! :BANANA:

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

WWDiesel wrote:

weeks101 wrote:

Looks great WWD!
Can I have your permission to use your photo of the factory hose on SasquatchParts.com?

Yes, sure, use it! If you need some more, let me know.

Thanks for providing us with a much better and improved option to replace the flimsy OEM rubber intake hose that seems to rot out every few years! :BANANA:

Thank you sir! Happy to be of service to the CRD community!

turbo inlet hose

Who is online