Hey fellas, I've been away for quite some time. I had a '05 KJ CRD that I ended up doing quite a bit of work on. However, it appears there is a bigger aftermarket support now for these rare diesel jeeps. I am curious as to what is the current list of things needed to a "bulletproof" crd KJ. I am looking at another 2005 limited with 99k miles. Very clean but needs the timing belt service. No biggy. I plan on doing the glow plugs, timing belt, lift pump, fuel filter head (if no upgraded), check rockers, and other little misc. things I recall from a few years back. My question, what else is every doing now? I'd like to go with a performance build if possible. Maybe upgrade turbo and obviously the torque converter/trans. Any general knowledge is appreciated. In the time away, I have been playing both an ALH and BEW tdi. I did the basic upgrades to get to a safe level before having to invest real money (ie. turbo injectors tune clutch ect). I just like diesels! haha

On a side note, I really would like to find a WK CRD, but I can seem to move away from the fact that the KJs are a) easier to find and b) a heck of a lot cheaper for a project!

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~ Brian
2008 WK Overland CRD

ARP head studs ($350ish), Definitely new (redesigned) rockers ($360), upgraded TC and the applicable valve in the transmission.
I've been out for a few months: how is the ball bearing turbo project going? Might be worth it as that 100k turbo is likely trashed.
Dual fuel filtration if you want the injectors to last hundreds of thousands of miles

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

**Timing belt replacement should be number one if you have not done it or know if and / or when it was last done! Most replace the water pump as well when replacing the timing belt...
A broken timing belt can cause catastrophic damage as this is an interference engine and repairs can get very expensive when considering replacement costs of damaged parts and labor...

Some good updates and mods worth considering as time and monies allow:

1. **Replace timing belt /water pump (read above)
2. Install In-tank fuel pump (eliminates all air in fuel problems)>http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/
3. Install ProVent on CCV system (gets the oil out of the turbo inlet hose, turbo, boost hoses, and CAC)
4. Install Secondary 2 micron fuel filter (protects expensive CP3 fuel injection pump and expensive fuel injectors)>http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=80139&hilit
5. Install Silicone Boots Hoses
6. *Install Weeks elbow kit (removes EGR, EGR cooler, and FCV) >https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/egr-delete-jeep-liberty-crd/ See item #8
7. Upgrade torque converter to Hemi or SunCoast TC (solves and TC shudder issues if installing performance tunes)
8. DIY performance TUNE ($0 cost and available on this list in the CRD Tech section) >http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418
......{a must do if you install the Weeks elbow kit to eliminate DTC's (check engine light) that will be present when you remove the EGR & FCV)
9. *Remove CAT & choke point and put in straight piece of pipe (improves exhaust gas flow, lowers backpressure on turbo and improves turbo spool up response time)
10. *Replace muffler with straight through performance muffler (same improvements as item #9)
11. Rear shocks (You did not mention replacing them in your post!) {upgrade tires if needed}
12. Check / replace upper and lower ball joints if needed, they wear out and can separate
13. Service transmission, replace filters & fluid (use only ATF+4 transmission fluid)
14. Install Magnefine in-line transmission fluid filter (filters and traps all micro fine metal particles and can be serviced without dropping transmission pan)>http://magnefinefilters.com/Magnefine-3-8-Magnetic-Inline-Transmission-Filter-R038M.htm
15. Change engine oil / filter (install larger better quality filter)
16. Replace: engine head bolts with ARP studs, rockers arms, and exhaust valves (ex. valves can break) {proactive engine failure prevention}

*Removal of the CAT and EGR valve totally may not be possible depending on your location and whether or not your vehicle has to endure an inspection. If it does there are some workarounds for both items to disable them completely but leave them in place for visual inspections purposes!

There may be a few I missed, but this will do nicely for a start!!!

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

What is the ball bearing turbo project you speak of? The turbos are only getting 100k out of them?

Also last time I was in the club, it was recommended to keep the EGR components intact and just tune them out of service. This was due to the turbo surge and the way the EGR acted to aid in pressure relief. Thank you for the list and ideas though!

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~ Brian
2008 WK Overland CRD

Someone is working on a ball bearing replacement turbo. No actual product has been released yet.
I've got 180k miles on my stock turbo. No issues. In fact, I've even turned up the boost a bit.
The idea behind the ball bearing turbo is to increase turbo performance and improve longevity.

Once folks started completely deleting the EGR, it has been revealed that turbo surge is not a problem. At least not at stock boost levels. Push it too high and it can be a problem. And a few have created their own DIY ECU tunes to turn off the associated egr delete codes and improve performance and shared them with the community.

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U.S. Army Retired

Just to disagree with WWdiesel a bit here and there
1. Install In-tank fuel pump - install 2gen fuel filter head first; if no air in fuel problems you are done
2. New timing belt /water pump - a big yes unless there is proof this has been done for the vehicle you buy
3. Install ProVent on CCV system - see #5 below; if done ProVent might? help life of turbo intake hose but that's it
4. Install Secondary 2 micron fuel filter - don't see the need but from time to time bad fuel can clog a filter so carry a spare
5. Install Silicone Boots Hoses - a big yes; see idParts ones
6. Install Weeks elbow kit (removes EGR, EGR cooler, and FCV) - spend your $s on a GDE EcoTune instead
7. Upgrade torque converter to Hemi or SunCoast TC - only if you experience torque converter shudder
8. DIY performance TUNE - see #6 re. GDE tune
9. Remove CAT & choke point and put in straight piece of pipe - no particular benefit and removal of CAT will cause failure to pass emission inspection if such is required although gutting CAT won't.
10. Replace muffler with straight through performance muffler - my son did but got no special benefit.
11. Replace springs, struts, & rear shocks (upgrade tires if needed) - as needed routine maintenance if high mileage
12. Service transmission, replace filters & fluid - a big yes
13. Install Magnefine in-line transmission fluid filter - better to just service tranny regular with good filters and ATF+4
14. Change engine oil / filter (install larger better quality filter) - Shell Rotella T-6 and don't use extended change intervals.

If possible check MAF readings to see if valves/rockers are good. Battery should be newish and 800CCA+ is ideal.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

It was determined a year or two ago by some of the programmers on here after some research that the OBC does not contain any code to operate the EGR to control over pressure....
Therefore there is no need to keep all that junk hanging on the side of your motor!!!
Also, tuning the EGR system out of service will not ensure that the EGR cannot leakby and loose boost!

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

WWDiesel, There is surge protection in the factory tune that opens the EGR valve momentarily to reduce turbo compressor surge in certain conditions. This logic is in the engine ecm next to the battery. Other tuners may discount it, but they are in error.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

What has been changed in the design of the rockers? What was the issue with these?

Thanks to you all for posting the information. I'm building a shopping list as we speak

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~ Brian
2008 WK Overland CRD

Keith, I love your tunes, but that little bit of code you speak of is a hold-over from programmers that think they understand gas turbocharging...

We do not have that problem as there is not a throttle plate to slam closed when the throttle is released. Air is continuously and permanently flowing in one direction. When the fuel is cut, the boost just flows into the cylinders (as normal) and right out the exhaust. Since there is no combustion event, there is no expanding gas to drive the turbine, and the turbo spins down.

Boost has no reason to attempt flowing backwards, and no physical expression of this has ever presented itself to me on my elbow-kitted CRD.

If there are other reasons for keeping that programming - unrelated to the vehicle performance... I'm OK with that. People are free to install the elbow kit or a blanking plate - and I suggest that for the ultimate guarantee of boost retention. The EGR is not a high quality device in this application, and I have seen evidence on many CRDs where it does not seal completely even when it *is* functional.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.