Beginning Rockers/HG etc.; Veteran inquiry:

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 30, 2016 3:05 pm

'05 145K.
(Finally) Commencing: MotorMounts/Rockers/2-hole HG/ARPS/TBeltKit/H2OPump/Thermo.
Also, Swapping from '05 gasser into "Chugger": 2" OME Lift (CRD-Rated), ARB Lockers F/R, ARB Front Bumper, like-new Duratrac 245-75/16's, and mildly contemplating swapping 6-speed setup (unfortunately, I suffer urban traffic frequently enough to lean AT).

Procedures I've previously performed on CRD: Sasq. I/II, Bosch Glos, Kennedy fuel pump, 11-blade Fan/Clutch, RV-Toad Blue Ox tow bracket/Lights/AuxBrakes.
Procedure I screwed-up: a (theoretically simple) #4 Injector-seal replacement, which led to replacing both #1&4 Injectors; a story of serial stupidity which has driven my decision to pull-head (& replace HG) to inspect #4 combustion chamber (and while off de-carbon all 4 chambers).

ALL of this work is preventative. No pre-op noise issues or coolant loss. Injector-air issue is an annoyance but non 'engine-mechanical'. Therefore, I will NOT be going to additional hassle and expense of hauling head to machine shop for flux/decking.

I have performed 70-ish HG R&R's on Subaru 2.5's. That experience funds a few pre-op questions for VM 2.8 Veterans:

A. I have very limited space where I'm performing these procedures (here in Baja): How crucial is 3-side engine bay access for head removal, etc? I have ample front, but only 18" of either Left or Right side access: is that going to be a disaster for any particular aspect of dis- and re-assembly? Preferable/Imperative side to access?
I'm going to invest some more hours scanning/notating these INCREDIBLY AWESOME rocker-procedure threads, but I seriously doubt my "procedure-access" question is answered therein (since I'm pulling the head, I'm guessing that all the sage advice for rocker-replacement pre-op alignments do not apply...). From the hip, it looks like the turbo-side (right) is probably more crucial but a Veteran Voice would be hugely reassuring.

B. Special Tools: I successfully hacked-through probably 10 Soob HG jobs before flipping for the Deutsche Dual-Cam holding tool (Aka the "Beer in One Hand" Fraulein Assistant). So... if I'm a reasonably resourceful monkey, how good/bad are the odds that I can nail the VM's 3-way timing alignment/tightening sans "Tool"?

C. While the head is off, I need to "restore" the #4 injector seat in the head, which was contaminated by crap caused by a leak at its' injector rail-feed. I'm thinking of using the little cloth-disc on a Dremel (hopefully adequate reach) to "polish" the surface clean without risking gouging or deforming the surface. Thoughts?

Many Thanks: Then, Now, Always!!!

FYI- regarding cleaning/prepping head surfaces -and ALL metal surfaces-, I swear by Aircraft Spray Cleaner (sky-blue can, check pro paint-supply stores): 30-seconds and then gasket-scraper literally removes ANYTHING like butter! Gasket material, carbonization... wipe-off residue and Presto! like new metal surface. WEAR RESPIRATOR!!! AND USE OUTDOORS or in VERY well ventilated area. Spray-on Zip-Strip also amazingly effective but insanely toxic if inhaled ("Gee Whiz, Tweeker's Friend!").

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 30, 2016 6:57 pm

A. I did most of my head replacment standing in front of the grille. I think you will be fine.

B. You need the timing pins for the cams. You need a tool for holding the sprockets when loosening and torquing the cam bolts. Its helpful to have a tool for the tensioner.

C. I used a shotgun cleaning kit as reccomended by Geordi.

rankom · **Posted:** Fri Sep 30, 2016 10:15 pm

my favourite tool for cleaning injector cup is called , cutter tool , i call it reamer so this tool is about 50 $ and i had two of them guy i lend this tool he liked so much he didn't return it so as guy i lent him all my timing tools , but that is ok , that means they like it , anyway get that tool and clean your injector cup so copper washer will seal 100% , no more carbon around injectors body . also does not need extra torque on injector hold own bolt , hand tighten is all you need .and yes you need to get that cylinder head to machine shop , they will take valves out and inspect them check valve guides and seats replaced seals and checks springs . in your case no need for pressure test or deck resurface but they will advice , you if needed , so menu times we avoided machine shop. and fuel injection shop because that is extra expenses , but learned from old boys and they retired or sadly not here no more to help . but that what i heard from them , do it right first time .

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 9:33 am

As one of them old retired mechanic boys you spoke of ( :lol:

), you are 100% correct; anytime you pull a head it should be taken to a good machine shop and thoroughly cleaned, inspected, and pressure tested if any leakage problems are suspected... :roll:

Additionally since we are aware of several members experiencing exhaust valve failures (broken valve), it might be very prudent to replace all the exhaust valves while head is off engine to be on the safe side! (cheap insurance!)
A broken exhaust valve can and will cause catastrophic head, piston, and possibly piston liner damage and get super expensive when factoring in the replacement costs of all the damaged parts and labor... :wink:

As to the diesel injector seat, you can purchase online a diesel injector seat cutter set like the one below for ~25 bucks; plenty of them on ebay!

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 02, 2016 3:11 am

Just when I thought I had all parts in hand. Argh.
However, given LJ members dropped exhaust-valve experience replacing them is sound advice. Thanks, I shoulda' planned for that!

Naturally, that opens the floodgates of how many head parts to replace. I'm not cheap, but there's gotta' be a practical limit to what makes sense.
For example, for me a $450 thermostat wasn't justified, though I readily admit they are impressively robust and infinitely sexy.

That said, I suppose if I'm doing the exhaust valves then giving the 8 of 'em new springs/keepers also makes sense, and since the keepers come in a set of 32 it makes sense to install the other included 16 on the intake side, which then argues for the stem (16) seal kit while all exh/int valves are out (Argh, redux).
I don't think that the spring seats are a big "wear" concern meriting replacement. However, the wear to the spring caps from cradling keepers for 145K... any VM-experienced opinions?*

I'll do all the head-disassembly grunt work then haul it bare-naked to a shop to get the seats spun (and/or etc., as advised).

I'm in Ensenada, so sourcing a trustworthy shop is going to be a bit arduous. I'm not saying there aren't good techs here -there definitely are-, but finding them and negotiating is always... entertaining. Yeah, that's the word, "Entertaining!".
Or, I could tap a Socal machine shop. However, cylinder heads are not rocket science; the best Baja engine techs :SOMBRERO:

are as competent as the best US techs, without the travel/border hassle and time :grim:

, and at half the price.

Thanks Again for the input!

- and I sincerely hope that at least half of you would agree that there's things you'd rather be doing than wrenching... :JEEPIN:

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* Rant: I've worked on SO many gaseous soob 2.5's w/200K-300K whose top and bottom ends were absolutely fine. New Six-Star HG, sew 'em up... one '96 alumnus is now pushing 500K w/original, untouched head/block (friend's company car, original owner).
My Point? It's caca to be sweating the guts of a well-maintained engine w/145K miles! But can't RV flat-tow an awd soob, so here I am.
Beeeching aside... while driving the gasser back from it's Vermont-purchase I spent a few days ARBing up vertical walls in Moab and mesa-camping. Hands-down the most fun I've ever had in a motor vehicle! Uhhh, that is... alone.
Those Moab climbs and descents were hairy-steep, big loose boulder, locks-on, cliffside affairs. When combined with the reasonably comfortable/stable/quiet 3K Montreal-Baja 80mph roadtrip, I am now a full-hearted Duratrac convert.
So I confess these Libby's are pretty cool once they're dialed-in. Once the Chug gets correct and receives the gas-goodies transplant, it should be awesome. And efficient. And Load/Tow-capable. Remote Baja, deeply. :ALONE:

Beginning Rockers/HG etc.; Veteran inquiry:

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