It's new to me, but clearly not actually new.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Hi all -

First post, but I've been reading this forum pretty intensely for the last day or two. On Thursday I randomly stumbled on an '05 CRD Limited, Friday morning I agreed to buy it. Kind of a rarity to begin with, but especially here in California! My only experience with the Liberty in general was a friend's rental back in 2003, suffice to say I have not been paying much attention.

But the price was too good to pass up and I've got a thing for oddball cars. Small turbodiesels are just soot on the cake.

Please bear in mind, the price was too good to pass up.

It has some needs. It was abandoned on 880 back in 2015 and I bought it from a towing company that ended up lien sale-ing it to themselves. I think it was fairly well maintained up to that point, but the last year has not been kind to it. But, it's *really* straight and the interior is in darn good shape and I think it's worth saving. It made a 150 mile drive with a lot of bumper to bumper traffic yesterday without missing a beat, so we're off to a good start.

I *think* it needs motor mounts. I initially thought this because the transmission dipstick was kind of wedged up against the firewall, but as it turns out someone broke the clip for it and it's just zip tied in the wrong place. However, I'm still going down this road as when hovering around a given speed with no or very light throttle there is a pretty aggressive vibration up front that goes away with a little throttle. Someone else on here had that issue, and motor mounts were where they went so, hey, why not. Got those on order from idparts. I'll do the trans mount at the same time for good measure.

CEL says it needs a new MAF and new glow plugs. The previous owner hit the MAF with - his words - carb cleaner and that clears the code for 20-30 miles, but then it returns. Got a new one coming from idparts.

CEL also says glow plug #1 is bad. I am leaving this repair til later - I want to fix the vibration and the MAF issue, then I'll circle back around to glow plugs.

It needs tires - I will work on that once it's back on the road.

It was originally abandoned because the alternator failed. The previous owner put a new alternator on it - it's very shiny! - but there is still a squeaking from the belt drive. I notice the tensioner wobbles a bit, but it doesn't seem in time with the squeaking. Someone mentioned to me this type of squeak can be the result of a bad tensioner killing the alternator, but since the alternator is new I am going to rule that out. I will probably go ahead and replace the belt/tensioner/pulley just to be safe. This will be round 2 or 3 after new mounts.

The truck has 180k on it, so I am going to do a full fluid & filter change. I'll wrap this in with the mounts, since I will probably end up pulling off most of the lower shields to do the trans mount.

I *think* that's all the mechanical stuff. Other details include a bad tailgate latch (motor is dead?), a bad LR window regulator (motor moves, window does not), a scraped up fender flare up front, and a ripped driver's seat. Other than that, it looks really nice!

I'm sure I will have questions along the way - I know a lot of this is addressed in other posts and I have those bookmarked. If anyone has any thoughts on this operation, I'd love to hear them! Last thing to do today is find a service manual (I like having actual torque specs, etc.), and the it's wait for the idparts shipment to show up!

mass-hole · **Posted:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 9:39 pm

A maf is not required for proper engine operation, only for egr operation, so if you are willing to either get a gde tune or flash one of the diy tunes from the tech section you can eliminate that code without buying a new maf.

As far as the glow plugs go, there are three possibilities. There were the original 7 volt ceramic plugs that liked to break off, you don't want these. Jeep replaced these with 5v Bosch metal tipped plugs which involved a reflash of the ecu. Another alternative was the 7v etechno metal plugs that were direct replacement for the original ceramics. You can tell which ones you have by removing the wiring off one of the plugs and you should see a black insulation ring for the 7v ceramics or red insulation ring for the 5v metal. Etechnos don't have a colored ring I don't believe.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 10:00 pm

X2 on the maf sensor. Get a tune and don't worry about a new maf sensor. 180k is getting close to another timing belt service.

Billwill · **Posted:** Sun Oct 02, 2016 3:26 am

I presume the new alternator came with the correct decoupler pulley that the CRD requires? ie. a one-way clutch and not a standard fixed solid pulley?.

If this pulley is wrong or defective it can cause the tensioner pulley to bounce around....check for "red rust" on front of pulley which indicates a decoupler pulley that is about to fail.

A failing air con compressor can cause the tensioner to bounce...pull out the air con relay under the hood to see if it makes a difference....aircon will cycle ON/OFF all the time otherwise even when switched OFF.

Best to replace the belt/idle pulleys and tensioner pulley at same time.....the bearings inside these pulleys can be replaced to save money....tensioner pulley you drill out the rivets and replace with 5 mm bolts, nuts and Locktite.

Some of these pulleys have Left-hand threads so check the 2005 KJ Service Manual here on how to replace these components. Also check on this Forum which fluids are the correct ones to use ie. synthetic oil for engine...dyno for the diffs. Coolant must be HOAT...not the standard green stuff!

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Oct 02, 2016 12:52 pm

Welcome! (to the addiction) :ROTFL:

First thing since you do not know the history; **timing belt replacement should be on top of your list! Most replace the water pump as well when replacing the timing belt...
A broken timing belt can cause catastrophic damage since this is an interference engine and repairs can get expensive when considering replacement costs of damaged parts and labor... :wink:

Some other good updates and mods worth considering as time and monies allow:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=80139&hilit

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/egr-delete-jeep-liberty-crd/

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418

*Removal of the CAT and EGR valve totally may not be possible depending on your location and whether or not your vehicle has to endure an inspection. If it does there are some workarounds for both items to disable them completely but leave them in place for visual inspections purposes!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 02, 2016 1:07 pm

And inspect your front lower ball joints.
If they are worn, the WILL SEPARATE.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Thanks for all the thoughts!

I considered doing a tune to eliminate the MAF, but at this point I really just want to do a solid "stage 0" and get the thing running well 100% stock. I want to have a few miles on it to be sure the engine & transmission are in good shape, and then I can start with some actual improvements. I agonized over the MAF because it's $100 I didn't need to spend with a DIY tune, but it checks off one variable and I'll sleep better.

As far as improvements go, I'm in California so unfortunately I can't do anything like an EGR or cat delete - those are definitely line items on the visual inspection. The MAF is in theory doable since I can just gut it - they're not allowed to take anything apart. One real downside of low-production vehicles in California is that nobody ever bothers to get exemptions for tuning parts - not a big enough audience.

The timing belt is another small obstacle - it has 180k, so it should be good for another couple years - probably 3-4 based on the usage it'll see. But it sure would be easier to do that when the belt drive is apart. I'm still pondering that - I think I will probably end up doing the timing belt in the future as I don't want to spend that money before I need to and then find out the transmission is toast or something. We'll see. Thanks Billwill for the tip on the alternator & AC compressor. It's absolutely possible it's not the right alt or the compressor is toast. I will check that out this afternoon! And thanks for the link to the FSM - that's HUGE!

I spent some time yesterday afternoon looking around underneath (something I could not do before I bought it

) and it looks pretty good. There probably an oil leak as there is a coating of oil along the bellhousing and trans pan, and unfortunately I think it's the turbo - the only thing that gives me pause is there is some spray on the passenger side of the engine too. I understand it had a big leak from the crank seal when the previous owner took over, and he had that replaced. I am hoping what's there now is just leftover from that. I mopped a lot of it and put some cardboard down so we'll see if it's a current leak or just messy from being old.

I am going to swing by the Chrysler dealer tomorrow to see about a transmission and fuel filter - I think I still have a discount there. I can start on that stuff this week. With any luck the idparts shipment shows up this week so I can get to work on the mounts next weekend. Then, tires (or at least an alignment) and some road time to see what I am actually working with. The trip back on Friday was done gently with a light foot.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Oct 02, 2016 9:48 pm

thesameguy wrote:

As far as improvements go, I'm in California so unfortunately I can't do anything like an EGR or cat delete - those are definitely line items on the visual inspection. The MAF is in theory doable since I can just gut it - they're not allowed to take anything apart. One real downside of low-production vehicles in California is that nobody ever bothers to get exemptions for tuning parts - not a big enough audience.

OK, what you can do if they do not sniff the tail pipe and only do a visual inspection of parts:
Block off the EGR valve with a block off plate, renders the EGR system totally useless and prevents any boost lost and for all visual purposes it is still there and functioning! :wink:

Instructions and dimensions for block off plate are on this forum here:>http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76576

Next, remove CAT, bust all the honeycomb guts out of it and reinstall it, again for all visual purposes it is still there and functioning!
Your Jeep will be much happier without these crappy items choking the performance of the engine!!!
Problem solved!!! :rockon:

Ludi Neethling · **Joined:** Sat Feb 02, 2013 11:04 am **Posts:** 87

When I bought mine a couple of years ago with 160k Km on the clock the engine appeared to have oil leaks down the turbo (right) and the egr (left) side of the engine. I cleaned the engine, installed a catch can in the CCV line, removed and cleaned the egr and replaced the CAC hoses. After 40k Km the engine is still clean and no new "oil" ("goo") leaks. The timing belt was replaced at 100k Km and then I replaced timing belt, tensioner and idler pulleys at 200k Km. You guys work on 100K miles but seeing that the maintenance schedule indicates xx Km/Miles or 5 years, I opted to replace. The first replacement was in 2009 (+- 7 years ago).

All the work done by myself on the Jeep was made possible by the kind, wise members of this forum (and others :wink:

). I saved thousands of bucks on labour and learned a lot in the process.

Ceearedeedriver · **Joined:** Fri May 06, 2016 8:44 pm **Posts:** 177

thesameguy wrote:

The timing belt is another small obstacle - it has 180k, so it should be good for another couple years - probably 3-4 based on the usage it'll see.

Unless you have documented proof I wouldn't assume anything about the age or mileage on that belt based on the current mileage. The original could have easily been changed in the 60K-80K range and your current one could already have 100K+ on it.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Ludi Neethling wrote:

When I bought mine a couple of years ago with 160k Km on the clock the engine appeared to have oil leaks down the turbo (right) and the egr (left) side of the engine. I cleaned the engine, installed a catch can in the CCV line, removed and cleaned the egr and replaced the CAC hoses. After 40k Km the engine is still clean and no new "oil" ("goo") leaks.

That is really good to know - it's totally possible there are some clogged or degraded components in the CCV system, definitely worth a look! The film looks more sprayed on than leaked out, so clogged CCV sounds like a plausible explanation.

So, this is it - one $3000 CRD.

It's not bad, right? I spent a fair amount of time on Saturday cleaning up the interior. The plastic is cheap for sure, but it's also really durable, so that's nice. With some good chemicals all the surfaces got pretty clean. There is a spill of something on the trunk floor I will attend to soon, but at least now it's pleasant to be in.

Here is the engine with the plastic covers removed so I could look around - it's not spotless in there, but I've seen worse.

This is the shiny new alternator -

And here is the only real paint issue. I have a replacement flare and bumper cover reserved at the dismantlers. Cosmetic stuff waits until it runs right, but high hopes.

I picked up the pair of transmission filters at the dealer this morning, so I will work on a transmission fluid change tonight or tomorrow night. Hopefully idparts ships the mounts promptly.

Ceearedeedriver · **Joined:** Fri May 06, 2016 8:44 pm **Posts:** 177

Looks in great shape and pretty clean. You need to get rid of that fixed pulley on the alternator.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Ceearedeedriver wrote:

Looks in great shape and pretty clean. You need to get rid of that fixed pulley on the alternator.

Dammit, I knew you were going to say that. When I took that picture I knew that wasn't a fancy pulley. Probably not going to be cheap replacing it either. Blah!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Oct 03, 2016 3:39 pm

thesameguy wrote:

Ceearedeedriver wrote:

Looks in great shape and pretty clean. You need to get rid of that fixed pulley on the alternator.

Dammit, I knew you were going to say that. When I took that picture I knew that wasn't a fancy pulley. Probably not going to be cheap replacing it either. Blah!

That is the wrong pulley, it can put a lot of stress on the tensioner pulley & tension spring, it can make the tensioner bounce real bad at idle without the override alternator pulley. :roll:

You can source it from IDParts, eBay, Advance Auto, RockAuto, to name a few.

These are the part numbers to search for: :google:

Litens 920720 or 920834A
GATES 37015P
DORMAN 300850

Prices are not to bad on eBay and for the Dorman brand.
Toyotas also uses this same pulley, so don't be surprised it you see the part number listed for a Toyota instead of a Jeep CRD.... :wink:

GraemeT · **Posted:** Mon Oct 03, 2016 3:41 pm

[edit] - I type too slow WWDiesel has already beaten me to it - follow his advice

I'm in the UK and recently had to replace my alternator pulley - getting Mopar items over here is expensive so I picked up one of these from the UK Ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231611921657

whilst that may not be too much help for you in California it may be worth casting an eye over the ebay listing as it does list a multitude of various part numbers that match. You may be able to use that to pick up a decently priced alternative if Mopar is $$$.

If you go for something along the lines of the one I picked up you'll need to find a splined tool to refit rather than a hex one.

Looking at the mount you have there - the 'inner' 10mm nut allows you to hold the shaft still and the bigger nut will spin off anti clockwise as normal - save yourself a lot of time (unless you're lucky) and get an impact hammer onto the big nut and ignore the little one - I faffed around for ages trying to get my old pulley of in situ but, eventually, pulled the alternator out and rattled the pulley off first time with my really crappy air impact gun.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Several years ago I added a 4hp 60g compressor to the tool arsenal so I am set when it comes to alternator nuts!

I will get a replacement pulley ordered and see if that calms down the belt. The previous owner said he replaced it, so perhaps he did and the tensioner gyrations are just because the pulley is the wrong one. Fingers crossed!

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

WWDiesel wrote:

You can source it from IDParts, eBay, Advance Auto, RockAuto, to name a few.
These are the part numbers to search for: :google:

Litens 920720 or 920834A
GATES 37015P
DORMAN 300850

Amazon had the Gates product for $45, good enough for now!

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Oct 03, 2016 8:06 pm

You can get the splined tool (that is used on the same pulley on the VWs) from IDparts - look for a set by Metalnerd. As far as taking the thing out, yep - it is WAY faster to just pull the alternator loose and not even remove it from the engine bay, tip it back and hit it with the impact gun. Takes me about 10 minutes to swap one of those pulleys, more if I drink the beer slowly.

Billwill · **Posted:** Tue Oct 04, 2016 3:44 am

Best to get the Litens sealed greased pulley...slightly smaller in outer diameter than the standard pulley but tension pulley takes up the slack.

Litens pulley...do a search for it on this forum..920834A is the PN and there are lots of tips on how to replace it!

Could also fix your vibration problem because from what I have read the 4 pot KJs such as the CRD and the 2.4 Gasser need this over-run pulley because of the engine layout...engine vibration and jerking of engine when switching off!

Yeah the instant I saw your picture of the pulley I thought that this was wrong! :shock:

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

The guy I bought it from was clearly not good at cars - he kept telling me "the brake rounds need to be rotated" - but it's clear the shop he used sucked too. You'll notice the front corner of the fan shroud is broken off, there is a piece of the bottom end cover that's broken too, and the tacked-on bracket for one of the AC hoses across the radiator is broken... apparently it was too difficult to remove the bolt. Derp. I didn't know there was supposed to be a decoupler when I bought it, but when it was mentioned I knew instantly I didn't have one. Had it been there, it would have caught my eye.

I am *sure* as I go through this thing I will find more evidence of half-assed repairs. That's pretty typical of used cars, and especially used cars bought at a discount.

I guess it's kind of my specialty. Maybe some day I will tell you all the story of my discount Jaguar XJR, aka The Cat of Shame. Heh.

Last night I dropped the transmission pan and replaced the filters. Fluid looked pretty darned good, smelled fine, and the magnet was pretty clean. I am virtually positive the fluid has been changed before as the RTV on the pan was a mess - definitely something a human did and not a machine.

Took a while to clean up. I am going to order some +4 off Amazon tonight (local parts store only carries STP, I'm not going there) as well as a Wix XP oil filter (local parts store only has Fram).

Quick question about the oil drain plug - it looks like the washer may be leaking, but it could be oil collecting there from elsewhere. I am going to replace it just to be sure - is there anything special about the washer? Worth just getting both plug & washer form the dealer?

Speaking of the dealer - when I was there I tried to buy a new fuel filter/separator but the parts guy couldn't tell what I needed. I guess there was an update later, and he could only find a part number for the whole assembly. Can anyone tell from the picture I posted back there whether I need the retrofit or not?

It's new to me, but clearly not actually new.

Who is online