It's new to me, but clearly not actually new.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Oct 04, 2016 1:47 pm

The AC line clips break if you look at them wrong.

Yes you want name brand ATF+4 for the tranny.

WIX oil filter small/OEM size WIX 51516, or NAPA Gold 1516 or oversize alternatives NAPA Gold 1515 orWIX 51515. 6.3 qts small filter vs. 7qts large filter is full fill regardless of what dipstick says. Stick with Shell Rotella T-6 Full Synthetic 5-40 or equivalent.

Tranny filter(s) and gasket kit - WIX filter set with pan gasket 5884

Oil drain plug is notorious for leaking and/or striping pan threads especially if installed with no gasket. Don't know that the gasket is "special" but many of us like the Fumoto drain valve replacement although I typically tie the lever down with a zip tie just in case.

Dealer parts guy is a total idiot but then you are not the first one where the dealer parts guy was too stupid to find just the filter (PN52129238AA). That said you have a first gen filter head (black right electric plug not bright blue). Suggest getting 2 gen from idParts. Comes with new filter and WIF installed and wiring pigtail. To wire - undo battery; match new wires as best as possible by size not color; dump extra set of new wires; thread new wires thru new plug and secure with blue clip; cut old wires; splice in new wires (I used marine grade butt clamps with heat shrink tubing); wrap with quality electrical tape (like 3M not cheap junk parts store stuff); replug electrics. Removal of old head is relatively simple - unplug electrics; undo hose clamps; push don't pull hoses off; undo bolts holding head to bracket; lift head off bracket and up enough to unplug WIF connection - reverse to install.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

In the parts guy's defense, there aren't that many CRDs in California. The chances that this guy has ever looked up anything for them is pretty low. He stuck with it, but eventually I let it go knowing you guys would have the concise answer.

I will hold off on the filter for now and get the whole shebang from idparts with my next order.

I will use T6 - it's what goes in my SPG and my XR4Ti so it's already in the garage.

The 51515XP is already on it's way, so that's sorted. Do you know what size the drain plug is offhand? Rockauto doesn't know - I have a selection of new washers in the garage, but I'd like to be sure I've got the right one. I have not had a great experience with the Fumoto valves - the one on my Audi and my Falcon both started leaking after a while. I'll just stick with a good old fashioned drain plug for now.

Hopefully, the sump threads are in good shape!

The transmission filters were Mopar - dealer had the filters in stock and I had a break in my schedule yesterday and wanted to start knocking things out. Amazon is delivering Mopar fluid to go with.

Reminds me... gotta go ebay a window regulator!

Edit.... Oooooorrrrr cheapo aftermarket units are available from Amazon. DOPE.

Edit2 - Found the drain plug - BSP threads? ROFL. Guess I will hit up the dealer for that.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

UPS faked me out - updated my motor mount delivery date to today, then at like 6pm changed it back to tomorrow. Jerks.

Thinking I was going to get my motor mounts tonight, I spent a lot of the evening starting the work. Getting the nuts off the mounts was easier than expected - I was able to use an impact wrench on 3 of the 4. The passenger side came out easily, but I could not get enough height lifting the engine to get the driver's side out.

I had read the FSM earlier in the day, and the motor mount procedure is odd. Removal is fan shroud/nuts/lift engine/remove but installation is install/install mount bracket/nuts/fan shroud.... the removal instructions mention nothing about removing the bracket from the engine, but the install instructions specifically call out torque and tightening order. I don't get that, but whatever. I ended up having to seriously loosen the bolts on the driver's side bracket to get the mount out. No big deal, it was easier than I expected! Getting everything torn down took about 2 hours, and a lot of that was spent cleaning. It's nasty under there.

The passenger side mount seems like it's in good shape, but it also looked like it had splooged oil all over the chassis-side bracket. The driver's side seems hosed - also splooge - but there are pieces of rubber rattling around inside. I was happy to find that - I would have been annoyed if I had taken it all apart and the mounts were fine.

Amazon also hosed me, or, I guess, USPS did. The decoupler pulley tool shows delivered but I got no mail today, so I'm not sure where it is. Gonna be peeved if I don't have it this weekend!!!

dennyb · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 4:27 pm **Posts:** 110

One person with documented mods. Has good step by step how to's.
http://liberty.eurekaboy.com
And there is a link to the window regulator repair plate "guaranteed fix".

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 06, 2016 7:31 am

The passenger side mount is probably oils soaked from excess oil coming out of the turbo? I'd also check your intake to turbo hose to make sure it's not rotted. Also, you don't need any special tool for the decoupler. Just take your alt off and then use an impact on the pulley. It spins right off

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

jws84_02 wrote:

The passenger side mount is probably oils soaked from excess oil coming out of the turbo?

Yeah, that is definitely on the table... The weird thing is that the mess down the chassis side bracket is present on both sides, and there is nothing over the driver's side that would drip like that.

I will try and grab some pictures of the mess I am dealing with when working on it next. I've cleaned a lot of it up (two rolls of blue paper towels and three cans of brake cleaner!) but there are still signs of patterns I think.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Got the motor mounts and the transmission mount done yesterday, changed the oil & filter, and filled the transmission. I took a couple pictures down there -

You can clearly see the places I've cleaned up, and you can see all the gunk under there. When I was first under there, it looked like most of the sludge was around/below the turbo. The bellhousing was pretty filthy, but I assumed oil had just leaked down there. However, this mess is on the driver's side and it's still pretty high up there. The turbo isn't in play over there, nor is the CCV, not even a front or rear engine seal. Maybe this issue is the valve cover gasket leaking?

Here you can see some remnants of the previous mess, but I got it pretty well cleaned up... maybe down the road I will get it steam cleaned or something.

Tonight I will put the engine bay back together, install the new MAF, replace the alternator pulley, and replace the window regulator. At that point, I think it's reasonably roadworthy. I want to get a few miles on it so I can complete the rest of my to-do list.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Also, Gates box, Litens pulley. :BANANA:

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Oct 07, 2016 1:17 pm

thesameguy wrote:

Got the motor mounts and the transmission mount done yesterday, changed the oil & filter, and filled the transmission. I took a couple pictures down there -

You can clearly see the places I've cleaned up, and you can see all the gunk under there. When I was first under there, it looked like most of the sludge was around/below the turbo. The bellhousing was pretty filthy, but I assumed oil had just leaked down there. However, this mess is on the driver's side and it's still pretty high up there. The turbo isn't in play over there, nor is the CCV, not even a front or rear engine seal. Maybe this issue is the valve cover gasket leaking?

Here you can see some remnants of the previous mess, but I got it pretty well cleaned up... maybe down the road I will get it steam cleaned or something.

Tonight I will put the engine bay back together, install the new MAF, replace the alternator pulley, and replace the window regulator. At that point, I think it's reasonably roadworthy. I want to get a few miles on it so I can complete the rest of my to-do list.

Why is your engine backwards, :-)r

Oil filter is on the wrong side in that pic.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

It's an import model?

I flipped the pic instead of rotating it, apparently. Didn't even notice!

Okay, fixed.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

When I first looked at this Liberty I was pretty sure the motor mounts were dead based purely on the position of the transmission dipstick. Now that the mounts are new, you can see the indent in made in the firewall insulation vs. where it sits now.

I am excited to start this thing up tonight... hopefully it's a lot less rattley than it was!

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Got the Liberty on the road this morning, put about 80 miles on it. Seems to be really solid - motor mounts cured the rough startup & idle, decoupler cured the belt squeak, MAF cured the CEL. Nice! Aside from seriously needing an alignment, it drives absolutely great.

Unfortunately, the oil leak is serious business. It leaks a pair of 4" stains wherever it stops. Not really a puddle, but significant. Gotta deal with that. I left the transmission skid plate off so I could observe a little better. That did not help. I have no idea where it's coming from.

Here are some photos of the underside after a drive - I'd appreciate any thoughts:

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqwvoBt9ZBp2gcYoREMH8tEsfK9EAw

There is just oil everywhere - the underside of the turbo compressor is damp, there is dampness directly under that on the motor mount bracket, and then around the turbo oil drain. The bellhousing is damp as well. The thing that is weird, though, is that the dampness goes back up the other side of the bellhousing a little bit, which makes no sense. Maybe it's just being blown up there by wind? Could be multiple sources too I suppose.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Oct 09, 2016 2:36 am

Have you checked the oil galley that runs along the passenger side of the block? It sort of looks like it may be a leaking gasket where the oil cooler mounts.

Have you checked that the CCV breather puck and return line are unrestricted and operating properly? If it is developing backpressure it could be venting multiple places, such as the turbo return, and anywhere around the oil pan that the vapors could compromise. In this I only speak of the possibility, looking at the multiple points of dampness around the area of the pan surface.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Oct 09, 2016 10:31 am

Could be your rear main seal leaking? That would account for it slinging oil all over the back end of the engine and seeing oil on both sides of the engine.
And checking the CCV puck on top of the engine and the entire CCV system is very good advise! :wink:

Make sure the CCV hose is connected to the turbo intake boot and there are no kinks in the hose or any other problem that could restrict flow on the CCV system! IF the CCV system is not functioning properly and allowing ANY positive pressure to build inside the block, it can cause oil to leak from seals or any other weak area it can find to get out... :roll:

There are no external items on the outside of drivers side of the block with lube oil pressure on them!
On the passenger side of the block, there are two external items with lube oil pressure running through them, they are the lube oil cooler and the turbo oil feed line...
The oil cooler has seals that can leak, and the turbo also has an oil return or drain line that has seals that can leak.

They make an UV additive that you can add to your oil and then locate the source of the oil leak using a UV light... Check with a good parts store like NAPA for these items...

Good luck, and keep us posted as to what you find....

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

I keep going back and forth on where the issue is - yesterday morning when I first drive it around, the rear main seal was my pick, but I just don't see how the RMS could get so much oil on the side of the engine, much less up on the motor mount bracket and transmission cooler lines. Last night when I could see dampness on the motor mount bracket I felt pretty sure it has to be coming from the turbo - the bracket is damp and the shiny new heat shield on the mount itself is as well. I can see grime accumulating around the turbo oil return - both at the block and at the turbo.

It is very possible there are multiple leaks, maybe the turbo oil return and the RMS, maybe even the oil cooler. I can see it from underneath, but not enough to see if it's leaking. The part I can see looks very clean .

When I replaced the motor mount I had the airbox completely removed and inspected the intake hose and the CCV hose - they are firmly attached and looked good. I will remove them entirely today and see how they look.

I have a UV light but I think I am out of oil dye, it's definitely on the to do list, but I am not sure I will be able to use it effectively - there is no good access in that part of the engine. Definitely worth a shot thought.

I think since there is a fairly clear path of oil from the turbo return to the motor mount bracket and shield I can at least start there, maybe cure it or maybe just knock out one leak. Any thoughts on just replacing seals vs. using Sasquatch's $230 kit? I have some turbo cars where wrestling the return line back into place is horrible & a flex line would be great. If the CRD is like that I will spend the money... if it's not so bad I will save it for things I really need.

Thanks all - I seriously appreciate the communal experience!!

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Oct 09, 2016 1:38 pm

The flex return line in Sasquatch's installation kit definitely makes things easier to install, but you also need to be very careful that there is no torsion on the flex part when everything is installed, as flex lines can kink, which defeats the purpose.

The rear main seal is definitely a possible contributor seeing how wet it is around the starter, but it's not nearly as wet as the area of the pan / block interface. Also there appears to be wetness around the oil cooler area which is hiding behind and below the water pump / Viscous Heater. I can't think of any reason why the pan-to-block interface would be leaking unless there is even a slight bit of pressure there to move it out.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Oct 09, 2016 2:55 pm

If you remove the Air filter box, both top and bottom parts, and then remove the air intake boot from the air box to the turbo, this will allow you to view the area under the turbo and you should be able to see the oil cooler. (see picture)

Note: The black bracket just under the oil cooler is what the top of your right side motor mount is bolted to!

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

I let it sit and idle in the driveway for a while, then took it back apart.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqwvoBt9ZBp2gcZ_0pmlVu1gKoCZ5A

This is fully cleaned, followed by no road time so wind buffeting is not a factor here. You can see in these pictures:

Oil spray all over the bellhousing, even on the driver's side. The only thing I can come up with is an RMS leak that is getting thrown around by the torque converter. There just isn't anything to leak on the driver's side, and the TC seems like the only way to move oil over there.

The bottom of the elephant hose is, well, hosed. I suspect that is the real source of the oil on the bottom of the turbo. There doesn't really seem to be any "active" leak from the turbo. I cleaned it up and will monitor.

The oil cooler looks good. No oil near it or on the block down from it. Oil on the motor mount bracket definitely seems to be from the turbo via the ruptured elephant hose.

The puck and its hose are not clogged - I can easily blow through them.

I am prepared to have someone replace the RMS. I am capable of it, but frankly it looks like No Fun. I think I would rather outsource that and play some Forza Horizon. Two concerns:

One, is there any likelihood the problem is a bottom end issue and turbo pressure has blown out the seal? Obviously it's possible, but is it likely? I have read a lot about V6 models having crap rear seals from the factory, how long lasting are the diesel ones? This leak seems quite bad, but it's been leaking for a LONG time. The seal could have failed years ago and just gotten worse and worse. It doesn't seem that it just suddenly blew out the seal and dumped oil everywhere.

Two, I gotta find someone to do this work! The only shop I have had work on a car for me in 15 years is a transmission shop - automatics aren't my thing.

I am actually going to ask them if they'd do this work since it does involve removing the transmission - hopefully they will. If not, I have no idea. The dealer is around the corner but I just don't have confidence in them. There is a local shop called Independent Diesel that worked on my diesel Suburban before I got it- but honestly the CRD seems a little high tech for them.

Assuming I don't have a bottom end problem and I proceed with the RMS, anything else I should do while the slushbox is off? Thinking maybe replace/upgrade the torque converter...? Any guesstimate on the size of the hole it'll leave in my wallet?

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

WWDiesel wrote:

If you remove the Air filter box, both top and bottom parts, and then remove the air intake boot from the air box to the turbo, this will allow you to view the area under the turbo and you should be able to see the oil cooler. (see picture)

Note: The black bracket just under the oil cooler is what the top of your right side motor mount is bolted to!

Yep - I had the whole airbox out so I could use an impact to get the motor mount nut off.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Oct 10, 2016 12:13 pm

Does look like the rear main crankshaft seal is your main oil leak...

A good transmission shop should be able to handle the job of replacing the rear main oil seal. A seal is a seal and not much different than doing one in the transmission.
I do know from posts on this forum that there are some items when replacing the rear seal on this motor that a mechanic has to pay close attention to; these are the crankshaft end play shims that may come out when the rear seal is removed.

Do a search on here for crankshaft seal and read through the posts for more info on the mechanics of replacing the seal. I have never done one on this engine, but have done hundreds on all types of other engines including air cooled VW's which have the 3 end play shims behind the seal. I am sure there are others on here that have done this job and will offer you some advise on do's and don'ts... :wink:

As to the TC; yes for sure replace it while you got the transmission out; many are using the HEMI TC with good results reported, better than the euro TC and cheaper than the top of line Suncoast TC. Also have the transmission shop install a new front pump assembly while the transmission is out, the front pump assembly has parts in it that wear out with age...
It is also a good time to install a TransGo kit which helps improve the shifting of the tranny and increases line pressure slightly to help the TC hold in lockup...
>http://www.transgo.com/products.php?cat=Chrysler%2C-Jeep%2C-Dodge-%26-Plymouth&homeinclude=catalog&category_id=29&parent_id=29

It's new to me, but clearly not actually new.

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