It's new to me, but clearly not actually new.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Thank you!

I have a bunch of pages bookmarked about RMS replacement I need to read... I did catch a bit about the shim, so thanks for the reminder!

I hit up my favorite transmission shop this morning - they are the only people who have worked on a car for me in 15 years! They unfortunately would not take on the job. After looking at the FSM and the seal they thought it was outside their area of expertise. I then went to a few other places and pretty much everyone freaked out when I said "diesel." Right now, I have an appointment at a little 4WD specialty shop I've never heard of not far from my work. I dropped by there this morning just to meet the people - the shop is littered with old truck junk and a bunch of older Jeeps, mostly Willys. They were excited about the CRD so I'm gonna roil with them. I don't think they do transmission work - and frankly I wouldn't want them to - but maybe while the box is out I'll run it over to my transmission shop and have them do the pump. Any guess on what that'd run?

Gotta get another idparts order in so I can get this moving. Gonna shoot them an email to be sure I don't need anything beyond the seal - there have "crankshaft support O-rings" but I don't know where they go. I'll do that, the TC, and the elephant hose in this order. Maybe the glow plugs too. I'd like to drop the CRD off to the shop without the CEL on if I can. Not sure I can get the parts and do the work all next weekend, though.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

I will also mention I drove the Liberty all over the place this morning and it's doing awesome. Really a nice drive. I'm feeling a lot better about putting the money into the RMS - even if that comes with a $600 TC, a $300 pump, and $800 in labor. Yikes. I got really excited about $60 window regulators, lost sight of the real costs.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Got the TC, transmission pump, and an o-ring on order... Guessing it'll take a week and a half to get them. In the interim, I'm going to work on the glow plugs...

I have a code for #1, so I pulled it this afternoon. It's done broke itself.

I grabbed a similar-diameter metal rod and gently let it down the glow plug bore. What you see in the picture is that I have about 6 3/8" depth before the rod makes contact with anything - I'm going to assume that's the piston. I can only believe the glow plug crumbled into the exhaust and got blown out on the highway somewhere. The "break" on the plug is the same color & texture as the rest of it, so I am pretty confident it didn't break on removal. Plus, the P-code has been set for a long time. Seem about right?

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

idparts shipped the replacement glow plugs quick fast, so they should reach me today. I took some time yesterday to remove the old ones - #4 is quite a pain to get to, but the operation was successful, no breakage. Here is what came out:

Can you read glow plugs like spark plugs? Is there any significance in the fact that 1 & 2 are very clean, and 3 & 4 are a bit carbon-y?

Is there any value to good/used ceramic glow plugs? I'll never put them back in, but might they get someone out of a jam? Or should I chuck them?

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Oct 14, 2016 1:06 pm

Remind me, does it got 1-4 front to back?

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Yep, #1 in front (timing belt), #4 in back (firewall).

I had a p-code for #1, which is what started this. It has a little chip out of the nose. The others had no code, and are undamaged. But, I was going in and decided it best to just replace them all. I hate doing things twice.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Oct 14, 2016 1:15 pm

Maybe its a heat thing, maybe the front cylinders a running a bit cooler.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Got the replacement glow plugs in on Friday. During the operation, I found this:

Which, you know, is expected after 10 years and 180,000 miles.

I remembered I had about a quart of diesel in a jerry can from 2005 (derp) that was never going to go into a car, so I poured it into a bowl and dropped the elbow in and let it soak over the weekend.

:up:

Now that quart of diesel is totally wrecked!

I put it back together last night. Next up is replacing the elephant hose and updating the fuel head. On the 27th, I'm dropping it off at a shop to have the rear main seal replaced, and while it's apart another shop is going to replace the transmission fluid pump. Then, back together and hopefully daily use. Er, I guess I will have to work tires into that as well. Hoping it comes from the RMS/transmission work about the time Discount Tires kicks off their next ebay sale.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Hmmm... Also...

While the intake elbow was off I ran a cloth around the inlet to the intake manifold, obviously pretty nasty in there too.

I will go ahead with both a Provent and a GDE tune, but after all this work and then tires I'm going to be broke for a bit. I could swing either the Provent or the GDE pretty quickly, but I'd like to go ahead and get the programmer with the GDE just to make my life easier, which puts it out of reach. I may just wait a month or so until I can get both. I can't imagine another 1000 miles in stock shape is going to do more damage than it's already done over the last decade.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Oct 18, 2016 2:54 pm

You could go with a do-it-yourself tune (~$20.00 cost), it is not hard and all you need is a laptop and a MPPS cord available on ebay. :wink:

Here's how:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Oof. I will have to read that fully when I can pay attention!

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

Heh.

Wasn't exactly sure how you clean a MAP sensor, so I used MAF cleaner. Figured if it's good on hot wires it should be fine on whatever MAP sensors are made of.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Oct 18, 2016 9:02 pm

Ooh! You definitely need to blank off that EGR tube and / or install a Weeks elbow kit which eliminates the EGR, EGR cooler, and FCV... :shock:

If you cannot swing the Weeks kit right now, at least install an EGR blank on the feed tube to stop all that crap from coming into your intake...your motor will love you for it!!!! :wink:

EGR Blank dimensions:> http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76576&hilit

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

In my poor engine's defense, that is probably ten years and 180k of accumulation. There are no signs anything has been apart or replaced. It's still rockin' OE 7v ceramic glow plugs and the original fuel head! I guess it's been pretty reliable! Another month of status quo won't do anything that hasn't happened already.

Unfortunately a Weeks kit is out of the question as lacking those parts I will probably fail smog. I say probably because the inspection is only visual and it's not likely any given tech has ever seen a CRD before, but I don't want to find out the hard way. I will work on the tune, Provent and block off plate... I spent $200 less on tires than I expected to, so that frees up some capital.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Oct 18, 2016 11:22 pm

An EGR block off plate and free tune will not impact inspection at all, and I doubt very seriously any inspector would even notice an EGR valve, EGR cooler, and FCV are missing. :lol:

As to the ProVent, if plumbed carefully, it can look very OEM... :wink:

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Oct 19, 2016 2:03 am

Plenty of people (even in Kaliforniastan) have passed emissions inspections with the elbow kit - They are looking for things in the computer (active codes) and NOT caring about under the hood. They want to see that your catalytic converter is still in place and there aren't any codes. That is about it.

Where are you located? I am the traveling mechanic for these, and could do a tune for you for $100 if you are close to somewhere I am heading and that pays for the detour. You will definitely still want to do the physical blocking plate, it is easy and fast, and guarantees results. The tunes that turn off the EGR can't really guarantee that, because the EGR valve has a habit of not sealing fully even when failed closed.

Don't do an EHM - Even the provent isn't required if you block the EGR soot, and the oil (small amount though it is) will eventually soak up and carry away all that goop that is still in the main gallery of the intake. The EHM is a smelly and OBVIOUS emissions violation that they are likely to smell when you are there. Leave that portion of the system stock, it isn't worth the hassle ESPECIALLY since you have already had a rear main seal leak! Overpressuring the block is what causes that.

thesameguy · **Joined:** Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:24 pm **Posts:** 652

I did a lot of reading about the EHM and it definitely does not seem like a good idea to me - it's not on the list. PCV is a GREAT idea especially on boosted cars. Like, a necessity. I have a new elephant hose on a UPS truck right now. I tend to agree I could get by without the Provent, but I am very interested in checking it out as I'd never heard of it before joining here and it could solve two very expensive problems for me on other cars - two cars where certain parts aren't made anymore and getting a functional PCV system is a real problem. Giving it a go on the Jeep - which will see more miles than these other cars - is a good test for me, and then I can work on adapting it to these other cars. Plus, from experience, keeping oil out of the intercooler is really worthwhile. I've cleaned intercoolers choked by old oil, it sucks. If the Provent can address that, I'm all in! I'm not worried about getting through smog with one - as long as the PCV system remains closed, they really don't much care what's in the middle. Even basic catch cans are only a problem if you've got an ignorant smog tech.

For the Weeks part, like I said I am pretty sure I could get through smog with it, but it's just not worth it for me to chance. I have a very good relationship with my smog shop - I take six cars there every single year (12 cars every other year...) and have since 2007. I don't want to risk that relationship by doing things that are obviously not legal, maybe putting them in the position of wondering what else I might be up to. I really try to stick to the book as much as possible and in return they treat me well and don't harass me about grey area stuff (like a Provent or a turbo bypass valve where there was none, etc.). I'm not worried about an EGR block - it's totally invisible, doesn't put anyone in an awkward position. I actually "have" to run one on another car as - somehow - the part numbers for Ford 2.3 and 2.3 turbo EGR valves ended up with the same part number and the regular valves don't stay shut under boost. My choice was either block off the EGR or blow boost into the exhaust! At this point, I feel the same on the Jeep - the EGR is clearly causing an actual problem, I don't have guilt about dealing with it.

I'm in Sacramento, CA - I think a ways off from places I've seen you'll be. I need to read more about the DIY tunes as one of the attractions of the GDE for me is adjusting transmission shift points. In the brief driving I've done, it seems pretty obvious the CRD would benefit from taller gearing... lower shift points are at least something!

I will say I am slightly concerned about the RMS for the reason you pointed out. I was told by the previous owner he just had the front seal replaced - so in combination with the RMS in clear failure mode I am worried that there is a bottom end problem and the turbo is pressurizing the crank case. However, when I had the front skid plate off it was pretty darned clean whereas the rear skid plate was literally soaked in oil. It doesn't *seem* like the FMS was compromised. The shop that diagnosed and ostensibly replaced the FMS is also the shop that replaced the alternator pulley with a fixed (non-decoupler) pulley, broke the radiator shroud and engine cover in the process, and (PO's words) "cleaned the MAF with carb cleaner." Obviously, I don't trust those idiots. Totally possible the FMS was never a problem, or was never replaced, and the RMS is/was always the problem. There is no actual evidence the RMS was blown out - the Jeep runs GREAT - but it's a possibility... one that worries me a bit. Gonna feel real foolish if I fork over cash to replace the RMS and end up pulling the engine anyway.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Sat Oct 22, 2016 3:44 pm

Doesn't look like anybody already said it, so... Welcome!

You were curious why your #3/4 glo's looked muckier:
I just pulled my head to do a preventative HG (rockers, tbelt. etc.), and the valve-stems on the #3/4 intake valves were WAY nastier than 1/2. I think it's because the abominable EGR intake is essentially directly above the #3 cylinder and physics does the rest.

I'm in Ensenada now, but a 22-year West Oakland expat. Re CA smog, if one shop does the "visual" portion of the CRD inspection and identifies the EGR-delete, do you know if their "failed visual inspection" gets auto-recorded in the state-system? Given the rarity of CRD's, while it may be possible that the next shop would miss the EGR-delete (provided you perform a 'no-CEL' flash), if the preceding "visual fail" gets recorded at the state level you'd still be hosed. I'm thinking it would be possible to just "Fake" the EGR by hanging it in there and most smoggy's wouldn't bother to trace the (dangling-hidden) hoses/connections.
I'm actually a supporter of emissions tech but on CRD's the design is a disaster.

Also, if you were actually able to confirm the age of your current TBelt, I missed that in this thread. If you have no hard evidence of the last change, x2 that you should make that your #1 priority!

Lazy, selfish and unrelated: I'm about to install new motor mounts, searched "motor mounts" but the torque spec didn't easily avail (I intentionally timed their replacement while weight of head, etc., removed). I don't have a manual; given that you just did yours, if still fresh in memory any chance you could spare me the hunt and supply the torque spec? Many thanks!
Follow-up: I found a post that 'suggests' 45#; is that correct?
(I woulda' honked on 'em to 60 or 70 without a spec...)

Worth repeating; the Crew here is amazingly generous with their shared knowledge!
Owner-mechanic sites are the interweb's best porn.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Oct 22, 2016 10:53 pm

Motor mounts - As tight as you can get them, considering the location for the underside of the driver's mount is a cast iron mutha to get at. Just use a big wrench and a big arm, they will be fine.

For the emissions crap out there... If you can find a shop that even knows where to look for the EGR, you deserve a cookie. Seriously now, most of these places (including dealers!) barely know that there WAS a diesel jeep, much less how it was built!

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 23, 2016 5:32 pm

Thanks, G!
Yeah, I spent an hour-plus attempting to defeat that lower-left motor mount nut before "discovering" a favorable access from aft and above the front drive shaft. A simple deep 19mm and a zillion 1/4 turns, but that approach does permit your left hand to keep the drive located while the right cranks the nut off/on.

It's new to me, but clearly not actually new.

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