coolant leak question

ROKTAXI · **Posted:** Sat Oct 15, 2016 6:34 pm

I've developed a leak and it appears that it may be the water pump.

On a long trip, it splatters the underside as well as the rear tailgate (but very little). The total coolant loss so far is about 1/2 cup in the last 3+ months. Just an annoying drip on the garage floor after short jaunts.

My question is: I'd like to wait another 6 weeks or so to fix it but was wondering if the coolant that is trapped inside the timing belt housing has a corrosive action on the TB? The engine is a REMAN with about 60K. Should I also consider replacing the belt as well because of the coolant leak?

I checked on a WP replacement and found out that Rock Auto only offers a rebuild of your WP. Send it it in and it's sent to a shop for rebuild and then shipped back.

Is this a good thing?

I have not been able to find any WP from any other auto parts houses. The only thing I found is an internet posting regarding how crummy a CROWN replacement is.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Oct 15, 2016 6:42 pm

Order your water pump from idparts.com

How many miles on your current timing belt?
Water pump replacement requires timing belt removal so may as well replace it too.
And be sure to follow all the procedures for removing the timing belt. Including using the proper tools.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Oct 15, 2016 6:48 pm

You actually have choices!

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/timing-belt-kit-for-jeep-liberty-crd/ This not only includes a new top quality water pump, but everything else you could need towards all of your questions.

http://www.idparts.com/water-pump-oem-liberty-crd-p-2753.html This is a brand new OEM water pump if you find all your other stuff is OK.

There are also others if you do a forum search http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/search.php for Water Pump part no. or some variant of that.

{edit}
(NOT RECOMMENDED), but if you want to take a chance on a used one.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-LIBERTY-Water-Pump-Timing-Belt-Driven-2-8L-CRD-DIESEL-2005-2006-/172340051020?fits=Year%3A2006%7CMake%3AJeep%7CModel%3ALiberty%7CSubmodel%3ASport%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.8L&hash=item2820447c4c:g:F~kAAOSwgmJX1xvl&vxp=mtr
There is even someone on ebay selling a viscous heater AS a water pump. :roll:

ROKTAXI · **Posted:** Sat Oct 15, 2016 8:26 pm

Thanks for the links GordnadoCRD.

Gives me a little time to decide if I should replace the TB too. It has less than 60K on it.

I'll do a search and get the info on the procedure for the WP R&R.

I understand special tools are needed for the TB install. At least I have 6 wks to get all the info before starting.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sat Oct 15, 2016 9:42 pm

You have to take all the timing components off to get to the water pump. Your better off buying the complete timing belt kit from id parts. Any time you take a belt off it is recommended to use a new belt and never retension an old belt

xhizzous · **Posted:** Tue Oct 18, 2016 11:34 am

The special tools will be required weather you decide to replace the belt or not. To get to the pump you must remove the Timing belt backing plate and such wich will require cam sprocket removal and pretty much everything else timing related.

I reccomend the Waterpump with the brass impeller as a personal point of prefrence, You can choose which waterpump you want when you order the complete timing belt Kit from ID parts. I have done 3 of these now, Im far from an expert but I have had good luck so far, all 3 Times I ordered from ID Parts.

ROKTAXI · **Posted:** Sat Nov 05, 2016 6:12 pm

ROKTAXI wrote:

I've developed a leak and it appears that it may be the water pump.....

On a long trip, it splatters the underside as well as the rear tailgate (but very little). The total coolant loss so far is about 1/2 cup in the last 3+ months. Just an annoying drip on the garage floor after short jaunts.

After more investigating I decided that it was not the WP leaking. Coolant was actually dripping from the upper left (drivers) side near the head gasket area.

I decided to invest in Sasquatch's Stage 2 to enhance my Stage 1 and also see if all the EGR unit and hoses might be the culprit.

After the Stage 2 installation (not fun at all), I still had the leak... *depressed*.

It also appears that some of the coolant has made its way inside the bell housing and is slowly seeping out between the two mating surfaces.

In desperation I put in some Bars Leak (with pellets) and has slowed down the leak, but I only drove it for about an hour, so not sure if it needs more run time.

I know it's only a band aid, but trying to give my self time to think logically as to my next "exploratory surgery".

I don't have the desire (it's a senior thing) anymore for major engine dismantling. But on the love / hate side of the Jeep, I have put quite a bit of $$ into various components that make it more off-road worthy and reliable. And after almost 4 years of use, I'm actually pleased with it's off / on road qualities.

But now this now brings up a daunting delimma : Do I bite the bullet and fix the unknown ($) or ????.

More troubling for me is if I decide to fix it, I haven't found anyone in my area (Grand Junction CO) that has any experience with this beast.

Thoughts?

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Nov 05, 2016 6:58 pm

How many miles on the Jeep?

I've been out to Colorado a few times, but there is a member a lot closer that may be willing to come and work on it for you. Mountainman is in Idaho, a few hours drive from you.

I think you probably have a head gasket leak, because other than the EGR plumbing, there isn't anything else on the back / drivers side of the motor to leak coolant and getting it into the bell housing area says you either have coolant migration or a leak right in that area. The bell housing is not sealed, so anything that drools down onto it from above will just leak right through or follow it to the bottom.

You may not need a full head gasket, it is possible that ARP studs will be all that you need. I can do this for you - I have all the special tools and have worked on many dozens of these now, it just depends on your situation. Send me an email (I'm traveling at the moment) if you are interested in this, and we can discuss the particulars.

ROKTAXI · **Posted:** Sat Nov 05, 2016 7:59 pm

geordi wrote:

How many miles on the Jeep?

I've been out to Colorado a few times, but there is a member a lot closer that may be willing to come and work on it for you. Mountainman is in Idaho, a few hours drive from you.

I think you probably have a head gasket leak, because other than the EGR plumbing, there isn't anything else on the back / drivers side of the motor to leak coolant and getting it into the bell housing area says you either have coolant migration or a leak right in that area. The bell housing is not sealed, so anything that drools down onto it from above will just leak right through or follow it to the bottom.

You may not need a full head gasket, it is possible that ARP studs will be all that you need. I can do this for you - I have all the special tools and have worked on many dozens of these now, it just depends on your situation. Send me an email (I'm traveling at the moment) if you are interested in this, and we can discuss the particulars.

Thanks for the reply.

I'm trying to see what options I have at this point. None are 'happy' ones.

I bought the Jeep about 3 1/2 years ago with 94K. It currently has 119K on the clock.

It had a REMAN (factory) engine installed @ 65K due to a piston trying to exit the block, so the invoice states. All the work was done at the Dealership in Denver. I have all the receipts. $10K :dizzy:

. All together the previous owner dumped over $15K on other Dealer installed parts. I paid $10K for it.

I want to have a reliable vehicle for the next 10 years is my goal. At about 10K miles / year, I want to get another 100K miles.

The key word here is RELIABLE. Mostly for remote off hwy use.

Of course, 'stuff' happens and I can deal with that, but I don't want to throw money at something (engine wise) that will KNOWINGLY have other serious issues after I (presumably) repair it. Meaning what other costly engine weak points does it have (?)

Trans, TC, front & rear diffs, etc I can deal with.

Engine stuff not so much.

I'm anal about maintenance and quality lubricants (AMSOIL), as well as preventative maintenance. If it ain't broke, I fix it.

So my basic question is do I cut my losses and go back to a gasser Jeep or repair this and move on?

And based my info, what should I budget to get back in shape?

I'm assuming the following will / should also be replaced:

TB
WP (?)
ARP studs
Rockers (?)

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Nov 05, 2016 9:04 pm

Folks can we step back a bit and see if we hear zebras as opposed to elephants. The OP has a slow coolant leak that when driving splatters coolant in lots of places (no surprise) and the latest post suggests upper left front of engine where there are several coolant hose connections that can easily leak even if the hoses are solid. If it was me I'd lightly hose rinse the engine to get rid of coolant drip; add a bit of UV dye to the coolant system; drive say 25-50 miles; look for leak with UV light. It may be head gasket but there are a host of other external places that should be checked first.

ROKTAXI · **Posted:** Sun Nov 06, 2016 3:13 pm

papaindigo wrote:

Folks can we step back a bit and see if we hear zebras as opposed to elephants. The OP has a slow coolant leak that when driving splatters coolant in lots of places (no surprise) and the latest post suggests upper left front of engine where there are several coolant hose connections that can easily leak even if the hoses are solid. If it was me I'd lightly hose rinse the engine to get rid of coolant drip; add a bit of UV dye to the coolant system; drive say 25-50 miles; look for leak with UV light. It may be head gasket but there are a host of other external places that should be checked first.

Thanks for chiming in.

After removing all the EGR stuff, I cleaned all the areas where as to get a clearer picture of where the leak may be. Actually, where the leak may be, the coolant has cleaned off the surface pretty well but not to the point where I can identify the location. I also can't see the back of the block / head, but so far, now it appears that it's coming from the left side of #3 or #4 cylinder area.

I like your suggestion of the UV dye. I'll give that a go.

lacabrera · **Posted:** Sun Nov 06, 2016 4:42 pm

Replace factory head bolts for studs without replacing the head gasket? :banghead:

All that work and the head gasket could still leak, why take that chance.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Nov 07, 2016 12:11 am

lacabrera wrote:

Replace factory head bolts for studs without replacing the head gasket? :banghead:

All that work and the head gasket could still leak, why take that chance.

Because it isn't usually a head gasket leak. It is the bolts weakening and allowing combustion pressure to push the water out. This would be an unusual location however and not the normal failure mode, which is why it may require more invasive work. But if the leak is only a few drips, it isn't a big crack somewhere and studs might just resolve it.

lacabrera · **Posted:** Mon Nov 07, 2016 9:49 am

You cannot check if the studs have stopped the leak until its back up and running. If it still leaks are you going back into it again for free. I guess its a 50/50 chance I wouldn't take those odds on a customers vehicle.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Nov 07, 2016 10:26 am

There's also the chance that it's another cracked block, however unlikely.
I can't travel that far currently :/

ROKTAXI · **Posted:** Mon Nov 07, 2016 10:53 am

Mountainman wrote:

There's also the chance that it's another cracked block, however unlikely.
I can't travel that far currently :/

Thanks for your reply.

In my posts I was asking about a general budget $$ based on the items I listed. Could you give me an idea of what I might be looking at?

With my current condition (just an annoying leak) maybe I could take the 10 hr drive??

coolant leak question

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