Bad coolant leak dropping off starter

Baludog · **Posted:** Sun Nov 13, 2016 8:39 pm

Hello,

Every time I drive I get a bad coolant leak. Makes a huge puddle on the driver's side. After looking underneath I see it's driping off of the starter. I'm going to pull the starter tomorrow and see if I can tell where the leak is coming from. Any ideas what it might be? I've herd horror stories about a cracked block. I'm going to be crushed if that's the case as I just bought this Jeep and put about $9k into it. Changed all the fluids, new Toyo tires, new front drive shaft to fix 4x4, new windshield, timeing belt, alternator, key switch actuator "I think that's what it was called - did nothing when turning the key", new battery, breaks and rotors all around, and probably more I can't remember. Had it about a year and now this has started. Lastly, I'm now fairly broke meaning no more room for costly repairs. Hoping I can fix this issue my self rather than going to the dealer. I have a fair amount of knowledge working on cars, but I'm not a mechanic. Really appreciate any help getting this fun Jeep back on the road.

Thanks,
Logan

wilco549 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 13, 2016 8:54 pm

I wouldn't pull the starter. Check the EGR cooler just under the intake manifold. You can just take the whole thing off and replace it with the Weeks 1&2 kits. Just search the forum as it's full of talk about the benefits.

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... berty-crd/

Baludog · **Posted:** Mon Nov 14, 2016 12:56 am

While messing with the starter I finally saw a line with white powder caked around it. Funny I saw it today after taking things apart and not the two or three other times I was actually looking for it. I'm pretty sure this is one of the egr coolant lines. How difficult is it to install the weeks 1&2 kit? Do I work from top down? If anyone has experience installing this kit and can give me some pointers, I would appreciate it!

Thanks,
Logan

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 14, 2016 8:12 am

What's your location? Installing stage 1&2 isn't that difficult just a little time consuming. Getting the stock elbow off can be difficult if your not use to it. This also may be a good time to change glowplugs. How many miles on it?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Nov 14, 2016 10:20 am

Baludog wrote:

While messing with the starter I finally saw a line with white powder caked around it. Funny I saw it today after taking things apart and not the two or three other times I was actually looking for it. I'm pretty sure this is one of the egr coolant lines. How difficult is it to install the weeks 1&2 kit? Do I work from top down? If anyone has experience installing this kit and can give me some pointers, I would appreciate it!

Thanks,
Logan

Where are you located?
Installing the elbow kit is not to hard of a job; biggest pain is getting to the back bolts holding the FCV (flow control valve) on the intake manifold..
A 1/4" drive metric socket set along with a ratchet and short extension make this job fairly easy. All work is performed from the top.

While you are installing the elbow kit, you can totally remove the FCV, EGR valve, and EGR cooler along with all associated coolant hoses that connect to the EGR cooler.

Once you get the elbow kit installed, you will need to install a do-it-yourself tune to get rid of the DTC light (check engine light) due to no longer having the FCV and EGR valve plugged in.
The tunes and instructions are free and available on this forum at:> viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418

When you need help, just ask, there is many on this forum willing to provide guidence... :wink:

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 14, 2016 10:47 am

(Pardon duplicated observations, but while I was writing, WWD responded with essentially the same info...)

If money is tight, just focus on repairing the coolant leak at the egr (x2 sounds like your problem).

Given your list of improvements thus far, it does not appear that you've been using LJ as a guide to prioritizing your expenditures.
Do. Folks on LJ have fought hard and paid dearly to understand what these CRD's need to survive and thrive.

Imho, #1 is "removing" your egr. Given that (one of) your egr coolant line(s) is currently leaking, its the perfect time to remove the system completely, bypassing the associated leaking coolant lines altogether.

"Removing' your egr physically and/or electronically is also crucial for engine longevity (there are many threads exploring this subject, but due to LJ's sub-par search algorithms you have to keep trying different keywords to root them out).
A. Physical removal = Weeks/Sasquatch kit @ $290 (link above, money very well spent), or DIY a home-made equivalent. However, physical removal triggers a CEL/DTC which will cause failure of many state/smog inspections. A physically-removed egr also risks failure of the smog-check's visual inspection, an argument for:
B. Electronic removal = GDE tune @$500, or DIY ecm-reprogramming using "flash" tool (link above). Electronic removal de-activates the egr's functionality while "fooling" the ECM so it won't throw a code . Again, many detailed threads 'buried' n LJ.

If you physically remove the egr, x2 on inspecting and replacing (if ceramic-tipped or fried) your glos during procedure ($100).

wilco549 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 14, 2016 11:23 am

Baludog wrote:

While messing with the starter I finally saw a line with white powder caked around it. Funny I saw it today after taking things apart and not the two or three other times I was actually looking for it. I'm pretty sure this is one of the egr coolant lines. How difficult is it to install the weeks 1&2 kit? Do I work from top down? If anyone has experience installing this kit and can give me some pointers, I would appreciate it!

Thanks,
Logan

All of the work is from the topside. Not that difficult if you are handy with tools and have a little common sense. Biggest issue for me was sealing off the exhaust port with the supplied disc :banghead:

...as a matter of fact, it still isn't sealed completely.

Baludog · **Posted:** Mon Nov 14, 2016 1:02 pm

Hey guys,

I am in Virginia Beach, but making a move to Jacksonville FL in two days. Been a lot of work getting everything packed up, but we're just about ready to go. I have to make two drives down as I tow a food truck, Balu's Surf Shack, behind my 06 Silverado 3500 dually. Love that truck with 200k miles on her. My Jeep is my daily run around when I'm not towing major weight.

So far I'm the only warm weather guy with this Jeep. At least haven't read about anyone on here, or seen a CRD badge on the the back of a Libby driving down the road. Found this baby at a dealership I was working at. Traded in for $1,500 for a Benz. Kinda funny swap there. It had some issues which is why that work was done first. Everything so far has been on a need to do basis except getting some sweet 33" Toyo shoes. This sand buggy came from Washington State and somehow made it out to the East Coast where I'm now the second owner. Pretty sweet Jeep as it's been slightly lifted, ARB steel bumper, and sprayed with bed liner on the entire outside in sand color which is why I call it a sand buggy. Back seats removed and just the way I would want it. Great run around and toss stuff in the back with our caring too much. It's also killer on the sand and just plows through soft stuff.. I feel I got lucky walking outside at the Dealership and hearing this thing run thinking what the he'll is wrong here. Turned out it was a diesel which I didn't even know they made at that point. About a few hours later I decided I'd buy it which made them happy because with 100k on the dash and mods they didn't want it and would be sent to the auction. Gave it to me for exactly what they had put in it.

Just wanted to share my lucky story and how I fell in love with this truck. I will continue to take care of her as long as she lets me. I will be doing the weeks kit 1&2 install and checking the glow plugs at the same time. I would like to get the GDE tune, but will wait to do that for money reasons. 1 thing at a time.

CEL doesn't bother me as it's always been on and is a goal of mine to eventually figure out. Went to Advanced and got the codes.
P1263 glow plug 2 control circuit low
P1267 glow plug 4 control circuit low
P0101 MAF Sensor signal negative or positive deviation
P0700 read fault memory of control unit ETC
P0234 Turbo boost pressure negative deviation performance

Changed my air filter which was super bad and hope that fixes the turbo code. Haven't rechecked it though. Also have the MAF unplugged so the EGR isn't working. I'm thinking that's what the p0101 code is for. Luckily VA doesn't fail inspection for a CEL. I hope FL is the same.

Really the truck runs great. Only noticeable driving issue is when I'm pulling my 3k lb boat or when passing someone on the interstate. When I get on it and after a down shift the truck will fall to about 40mph and only gain speed when going down a hill. The gears will change, rpms will jump up, but no difference in the speed. Only happens once in a while which can mostly be avoided unless I'm towing my boat far which I'll be doing when I drive to FL (scary). A hill comes around even though they aren't too often here in VA and a down shift is inevitable. Then she craps out on me. Maybe that's related to the turbo code. The fix so far has been to pull over and sit for 30mins and then see if it's back to normal. This might make the drive to FL an all day and night adventure. Hopefully I can make it to FL 650 miles or so by topping the coolant off every so often. Like to make the weeks kit install down there where it's warmer and my tools are.

If I have ceramics, is it best to switch over to the steel 5vs? I will also look into the FCV delete when doing the weeks kit.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 14, 2016 2:17 pm

Quote:

I am in Virginia Beach, but making a move to Jacksonville FL

You gonna be at NAS or Mayport?
I'm about 20 min south of NAS.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Nov 14, 2016 2:25 pm

5v requires a mod I think (relay and programming). I'd just go with 7v, they work fine and you won't use then much in FL anyhow.
The CEL for the glow plugs is scary because the tips eventually snap off and can occasionally cause a destroyed engine. Get them out ASAP and presoak them overnight with PB blaster. You'll want to pull them strait out extremely carefully to avoid knocking a tip off in the combustion chamber. Good luck :JEEPIN:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Nov 14, 2016 3:35 pm

Quote:

If I have ceramics, is it best to switch over to the steel 5vs? I will also look into the FCV delete when doing the weeks kit.

The 7v's wil work ok in warmer climates we are told.
If you install the weeks kit, you will be removing the FCV and EGR components completely..
You can install one of the DIY tunes as they cost $0, all you have to buy is a MPPS cable off ebay for ~20 bucks and use a laptop to perform the flash.

As to your codes, try cleaning your MAP sensor with some spray brake cleaner, it may be causing some of your problems... :wink:

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 14, 2016 7:37 pm

FYI:
I checked their site today, and Sasquatch now sells what was previously known as the "Stage 1&2" as a single combined product @ $290. If I understood correctly, that includes both the EGR bypass and coolant bypass components that used to be sold separately.

That said, the "Flash" is a good alternative to egr removal, as noted above.

Re CRD's in warm climates, plenty of Southwesterners & West-Coasters on board here (I'm in Baja).

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Nov 14, 2016 8:54 pm

Please note: Only an EGR block off plate or Weeks elbow kit will guarantee 100% no leak by of the EGR valve.
A flash or tune by itself will not prevent an EGR valve from leaking by if it is bad!!! :roll:

Baludog · **Posted:** Mon Nov 14, 2016 9:07 pm

Ok awesome good to know. I'd like to get the 5v plugs just because the sound of something ceramic inside my engine doesn't sit too well with me. When I install the weeks kit I'll be looking to do those at the same time. Will try the reprogramming on my computer to save a little cash until I can afford to get the GDE tune. I did clean the MAP sensor which was extremely clogged as well as changing the air filter. I have not checked the codes since those changes. Haven't had the power issue since then, but also haven't been driving it much with the coolant leak. Really want to take care that so I can HOAT back in there. Lately been topping off with distilled water because it leaks so quickly. Hopefully I can make it down to FL while towing my boat before making these repairs. All my tools are packed up at this point. Could fly back with the tools needed when I come back up to make my second trip down, but doing that will require a lot of mental preparation to make sure I don't forget anything. Right now planning to drive down with the leak and just keep topping it off when need be. Luckily it's colder now so distilled water shouldn't be as much of an issue as summer time.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Nov 15, 2016 2:06 pm

Baludog wrote:

Ok awesome good to know. I'd like to get the 5v plugs just because the sound of something ceramic inside my engine doesn't sit too well with me. When I install the weeks kit I'll be looking to do those at the same time. Will try the reprogramming on my computer to save a little cash until I can afford to get the GDE tune. I did clean the MAP sensor which was extremely clogged as well as changing the air filter. I have not checked the codes since those changes. Haven't had the power issue since then, but also haven't been driving it much with the coolant leak. Really want to take care that so I can HOAT back in there. Lately been topping off with distilled water because it leaks so quickly. Hopefully I can make it down to FL while towing my boat before making these repairs. All my tools are packed up at this point. Could fly back with the tools needed when I come back up to make my second trip down, but doing that will require a lot of mental preparation to make sure I don't forget anything. Right now planning to drive down with the leak and just keep topping it off when need be. Luckily it's colder now so distilled water shouldn't be as much of an issue as summer time.

Have you pinpointed the leak?
It is probably one of the small 3/8 hoses on the EGR cooler. They are very fairly easy to change, all you need is about 2 foot of 3/8 rubber fuel line and four small screw type clamps. They both can be changed in less than 15 minutes using just a screwdriver and a pair of pliers if one of them is the culprit... :wink:

Baludog · **Posted:** Wed Nov 16, 2016 8:15 am

It is one of those hoses. Looks like it's 3 to 5" long. Just looks like a pain to get to. Especially getting the new one on and securing it. Been cought up on our move lately, but will take a closer look and see about changing that before the drive. It would def make me feel better if so.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 16, 2016 10:20 am

If your savy enough you can make your own egr delete. I usually just cut and weld the factory pipes and then put them back on. Also, you can get the 7 volt metal plugs that don't require any programming from the stealership

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Nov 16, 2016 1:59 pm

jws84_02 wrote:

If your savy enough you can make your own egr delete. I usually just cut and weld the factory pipes and then put them back on. Also, you can get the 7 volt metal plugs that don't require any programming from the stealership

Simple way to disable it; make a block off plate! ONLY two bolts to deal with at EGR valve.
It can be made out of any thin metal such as the top or bottom of a steel food can or something similar. Do not use aluminum cans as they are too thin!
Then you can plug or cap off both of the large (5/8) coolant hoses going to and leaving the EGR Cooler. Problem solved for good, no more leads ever!!!! :-)r

I ran this way for well over a year until the Weeks elbow kit became available. :wink:

Instructions to install block off plate:> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76576&hilit

ETR Block off Plate Dimensions:

Bad coolant leak dropping off starter

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