Looking for Advice on Purchasing an 05 CRD in the USA

t4thfavor · **Joined:** Mon Nov 21, 2016 2:47 pm **Posts:** 18

I found a high mileage CRD Liberty (212K) in my state. It's rust free, which is nearly impossible to find where I live. The owner states that the top has been redone to the tune of 3500$ with receipts, and that it's ready for another 200K. (First Hi to the owner if you're on here)

I wonder if this is something that will be relatively reliable for 100K+ or if it's something that I will be constantly at the shop with or waiting on basic parts (oil filters, etc).

Keep in mind that I'm a "pro" at basic maintenance up to and including timing belts, head gaskets, etc on Gas engines, and that this will be the first diesel I own.

I've worked with them prior, and understand the shortcomings of the diesel engine in the winter, and how water might effect it. I'm also not a stranger to forced induction.

Is this something I should stay away from, or will it be a good winter driver/ back country vehicle for at least a few more years?

Also first post

TIA

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 22, 2016 12:26 pm

Ask the owner what the $3500 entails. Hopefully it includes, timing kit, rockers, arp studs, and a set of new valves.

APC9199 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 22, 2016 12:35 pm

Unless the owner can attest to completing a NUMBER of things, I would expect to spend quite a bit to get it into "reliable" condition. I don't know what they have receipts for, or if they were a member here, but the list of suggested modifications for these vehicles is extensive and the damage caused by not doing many of them will make a vehicle with this amount of mileage a potential nightmare. Here's the short list...

Timing belt should have been done no less than 100k miles or 6 years ago. (I assume this was done when the engine was rebuilt)
The head bolts should have been replaced with ARP studs when it was rebuilt.
The head gasket should have been replaced when the ARP studs were done at that mileage.
The injectors may be toward the end of their expected life and might be approaching a rebuild unless the owner was good about changing fuel filters often and/or added a second filter unit. Places that are able to reliably service our injectors seem to be tough to find, but many people have found places to do it.
The entire EGR system should have been disabled fairly early in the vehicles life, with a block off plate or EGR delete.
If not, the rockers and exhaust valves should have been replaced when the engine was rebuilt.
The turbo should be checked for shaft movement and also to make sure it is a Garrett unit, not a cheap replacement.
The fuel filter head should have been replaced with a second gen unit. (I assume this has been done)
An in-tank fuel pump would be better, but is not necessarily required.
A Provent oil separator is becoming a more highly suggested modification for these engines, but again, is not required.

At that mileage I would also be suspect of things like engine mounts, wheel bearings, CV shafts, drive shafts, etc unless the owner can give you an idea of when they have been done. That is just basic car buying stuff, of course. There are a lot of things unique to this vehicle that more people will chime in with. Most of the above stuff is just the major headaches of the CRD. The really big ones are the timing belt and EGR delete.

t4thfavor · **Joined:** Mon Nov 21, 2016 2:47 pm **Posts:** 18

Let me make this more clear

"2.8L Turbo Diesel CRD, excellent condition, in and out, motor upper half has been completely and professionally rebuilt by licensed certified mechanic, I have over $3,500.00 of receipts, new head gasket, rocker arms, seals, new head bolts, head machined and new valve job, new water pump, timing belt, serpentine belt, new idler pulleys, and timing belt tensioner. New battery, all recalls up to date! EGR valve removed but available if desired."

I'm aware of the general mechanical stuff that needs to be done on a car, I'm assuming at 212K it's got new joints all around, and bearings. I'm expecting trans issues, and will price accordingly as a new reman trans is 1200$+

I'm also going to assume it wouldn't have made it to 212K if it wasn't maintained properly.

I'm planning for at minimum the GDE eco tune, and that fancy TC that I can't remember the name of.

Thanks for the replies, I really appreciate it, and hope to contribute back some day!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 22, 2016 1:37 pm

t4thfavor wrote:

I'm also going to assume it wouldn't have made it to 212K if it wasn't maintained properly.

If that were the case, why did it have $3500 in engine repairs?

At what mileage were the repairs done? It might be due for another timing belt.
Definitely plan on replacing the fuel filter and installing some sort of lift pump.
A Provent is also a good idea.
I doubt that ARP head studs were used. Its not a standard procedure.
Good that the rockers were replaced and EGR deleted.
If the engine runs good with plenty of power and no black smoke (and no codes) then there is probably no reason to suspect a injector or turbo problem.

The only thing special about the CRD is the engine. Everything else is pure Jeep.
Which means that ball joints, bushings, bearings, u-joints, CV joints, axles, and transmission are gonna wear out (or break) and need replacement.

If you like it, buy it, drive it, and enjoy your new hobby.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Nov 22, 2016 1:42 pm

Where are you located? That price point sounds like one of the ones I've worked on, but the work done suggests one of a few possible people and I might know a bit more of that vehicle's history.

t4thfavor · **Joined:** Mon Nov 21, 2016 2:47 pm **Posts:** 18

I'm in Michigan, the car is a southern (I think Texas) car though, hence the no rust.

There is a CEL on right now, I'm assuming it was the EGR delete. I'm also thinking that the EGR was not deleted soon enough leading to 3500$ in head work.

Also, I know this is highly subjective, but assuming it runs solid, and doesn't act up, at what price point would you back away slowly, and run for the hills? 3000$, 4000$, 5000$ ?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Nov 22, 2016 4:56 pm

If you are interested in a turn key (e.g. no CEL, no work needed) 05 with low mileage email me.

t4thfavor · **Joined:** Mon Nov 21, 2016 2:47 pm **Posts:** 18

Did nobody feel comfortable answering the "run for the hills" question? I'm more interested in a lower mileage one for sure, but it's winter, in Michigan, and I'm driving a borrowed Prius.

rankom · **Posted:** Wed Nov 23, 2016 10:02 pm

well usually people rebuild the top end on this engine because it is the weakest point , but sometimes if the valve drops or cylinder liners are glassed , (LOT OF BLOW BY) some guys don't want to go there or if they do , < SOMETIMES> they buy an old piston and they reuse old piston rings , and of course fresh TOP END REBUILD, and they call it done. so i like to see the pistons and liners , thats why i pull the cylinder head on my CRD but that is just silly me LOL

t4thfavor · **Joined:** Mon Nov 21, 2016 2:47 pm **Posts:** 18

Well I'm still going to look at the one in MI, but unless he hands me the keys for free, I think I'm going to stay away from it. I don't think he's done any of the supporting trans mods, so it's a wonder the thing made it to 212K. If they have been done, I don't think the current owner knows it.

As for glassed cylinders and whatnot. I won't have the opportunity to look at them, but I know what oil smoke looks like vs diesel smoke. I'm figuring it will be running, and warm when I get there which is another red flag.

It's certain I could have this one for < $5K, but I depend on my vehicles a lot, and can't risk having a $5000 boat anchor in my garage until I can find parts, and time to put it back together.

I really appreciate all of the replies as they've helped me to make much more informed decisions.

Thanks everyone!

skatedoktor · **Joined:** Mon May 23, 2016 7:25 pm **Posts:** 6

I'm not sure where you are in michigan, but you might want to look north of the border and save yourself 30 cents on the dollar. You can find a good amount of these vehicles on kijiji

t4thfavor · **Joined:** Mon Nov 21, 2016 2:47 pm **Posts:** 18

I'm close enough for a day trip to Niagara, so close enough for that. Thanks for the tip!

Do they use salt in Canada? If so, not interested

While it has to be reasonable, my primary motivation is to find something that is rust free enough to get Texaco rust proofed (or similar) and drive for the next 15 or so years

I believe in repair over replace, but after 20+ years of wrenching on salt vehicles, I'm so "over it"!

ooOO?

http://www.ezbordercrossing.com/the-ins ... DbrA323kyo

Looks like I'm not doing that

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Nov 24, 2016 11:20 am

Look on Autotrader.com, I did a quick search and found 3 in the south with less than 100k miles on them.
There is a nice 2006 dk green one in Palm Beach FL. with 73k on it that looks super clean, no history on maintenance though.
Guess you would have to talk to previous owner to find out actual work performed history?

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?modelCode1=LIBERTY&fuelTypeGroup=DSL&showcaseOwnerId=0&mmt=%5BJEEP%5BLIBERTY%5B%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&showcaseListingId=0&startYear=1981&makeCode1=JEEP&firstRecord=0&endYear=2017&searchRadius=500&listingId=442946352&Log=0

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Nov 24, 2016 2:48 pm

The customs process for the CRD should be fairly straightforward, these are the exact same vehicles sold in the US and Canada. They were all built in Toledo Ohio, so that eliminates the foreign car penalty.

I'm in South Florida if you wanted to have me go and inspect the one in Palm Beach. I'd sell you mine, except I just sold it. I'll have another for sale soon though, probably a month or two.

t4thfavor · **Joined:** Mon Nov 21, 2016 2:47 pm **Posts:** 18

Found one, 57k miles, all necessary mods completed. Silver, limited

Some of you know it. I will hopefully be getting it in jan.

Thanks for all the input!

I'm off to read the noob guide now.

Looking for Advice on Purchasing an 05 CRD in the USA

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