Most of the loss is probably due to winter fuel.

What tires are you running - what size, brand, and pressure?

You wont save any money on this thing even if your gas mileage was better because, as you have found out, you have to replace every part of the car before it runs right.

Still though, 18 does not seem right. My jeeps been avg around 22-23 with the tires and lift I have. I used to average like 27 in the winter and 28-29 in the summer.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

If you still have the EGR in service, it could be leaking by and you are loosing boost backwards through it which would lower performance and fuel milage.
A simple block off plate will elimate this and your engine will run and perform much better without the crappy soot going into the intake via the EGR valve.
Many on here have either blocked them off or installed a Weeks Elbow kit which allows for the total removal of the crappy EGR valve, FCV, and EGR cooler...

View topic on block off plate at:> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76576&hilit

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

I thought if you had a GDE tune your EGR was closed 90%+ of the time. The only time it was opened was to dump boost.

That is not a needed function, but I understand why it is still part of the programming.

The problem is that the EGR is not a positive seal when it is closed, and not a well built component anyway. So any activity that it has just accelerates its eventual failure. If it fails partly open, you have a guaranteed boost leak and higher cylinder temperatures (possibly bad for the valves) but you also have definitely lower economy and smoke.

The EGR is just bad news in general for diesels.

Im running Firestone winterforce 225/75/16 which i realize is a sticky tire and i run 30-35psi. Theyre sticky but i shouldnt be losing this kind of mileage from that.

I have the weeks elbow kit with egr blocked off and to be removed completely when ive got time to pull it.

I am running a 15/40 oil but my mpg hasnt changed since going with the heavier oil.

Running regular old on road green diesel with lucas anti gel additive when the temps really dip. I live about 2 miles from work so 5 days a week it gets 2 short runs that barely warm it all the way up. I usually make one or 2 60 mile hwy trips. Im at a notch below 1/4 tank right now with 300 miles on the tank. Once i get below a half tank on my guage it really starts to drop fast but i always check my mpg by manually calculating the miles vs gallon at the pump.

Its got 4 brand new injectors due to sitting and 3 of them going bad and running lean. Ive got one of the eco type tunes from on the forum here. I beleive that actually dropped me a couple mpg so i may be flashing back to stock.

I know it needs a fuel filter but i have a real hard time thinking a fuel filter will drop 10 mpg but coupled with other factors it could.

It also has a straight pipe from turbo back. No cat, no muffler.

I dont know what other factors i could list here.

Good. EGR is not a problem.

Lots of things can hurt fuel mileage. I blame the tires.
Should also check for boost leaks at the intercooler hoses.
Check for fuel leaks.
And change your fuel filter. Get the mopar or napa. Just do it.
Short runs with a cold running engine will hurt mpg.


I agree with the comments above. Maintaining this thing negates any MPG advantage.
Might be better off with a Tacoma or Subaru.
Or just lift it, add huge off road tires, take it down the trails, and have fun with it. MPG only counts when you are on pavement

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U.S. Army Retired

The O.E. thermostat does NOT run the Liberty CRD engine at a proper temperature. Do not trust your O.E. engine temperature gauge; it is neither accurate or linear in its readings. As I posted earlier, hook up an OBDII reader and get an actual engine temperature reading after while driving.

After this, go and ask any diesel technician if a thermostat valve with a 176 degree Fahrenheit opening temperature is optimum for a diesel engine, and show him or her the readings you obtained while driving.

The O.E. thermostat assembly is designed to comply with the stupid EPA emissions standards, and is not ideal for maximum efficiency, reliability and power output of the engine. With a failed O.E. thermostat you will see engine temperatures as low as 140 or 130 degrees Fahrenheit, and this will be the main reason for poor fuel economy and long term reliability issues with the CRD engine. Replacing the failed thermostat with a new one only goes part of the way to solve the problem. Ideally, a modern diesel engine needs to run at over 200 degrees Fahrenheit to have maximum efficiency.

Yes i understand the stock thermostat may not be at the most ideal temp but my gauge is working and ive checked temp with my scan tool and its in the stock range. There are plenty of other people running the stock thermostat and not getting 15 mpg. My fuel light just came on at 323 miles. Its getting doo doo mileage.

I also understand that this vehicle is not a money saver all around. The better mpg helps to offset the other ridiculous costs of maintaining it while still having the perks of a the car itself

I would suggest then that the poor fuel economy of your CRD is likely a cause of several different factors all adding up your unfortunate situation; a death of a thousand cuts, in other words. I echo flash 7210's suggestions, especially his statement that short runs that you make really do hurt fuel economy.

Have you thought of a Webasto heater to preheat your engine completely before even cranking to start? These things really help with the fuel economy, and are great for the engine.

Running on summer grade non-spec oil certainly does not help, and can cause problems down the road. Running 15W-40 is like churning butter up here. This engine also requires a special additive package in the oil to deal with the pollutants pumped back into the engine. I am aware you have taken care of the EGR system, but what have you done with the crankcase ventilation system?

What is the weather like in your area? A lot of those people getting decent fuel economy out of their CRDs using O.E. thermostat assemblies are probably in areas of the U.S. that hardly ever see snow or cold weather.

What, precisely, are your scan tool readings?

Ya ive only been running the 15/40 for about 1000 miles and it did make it hard to start the one week we had single digit temps. I gave the oil ago bc i have unlimited access to free 15/40 valvoline. But obv. Its not gonna work out. Due to the weird booty weather here in pa this year its been anywhere from 30-60 for the last 2 months with the exception of one cold week.

I havent done anything to the crank vent. One place ill read to dump it to atmosphere then another opposes that.

I just filled up. 352.5 miles on 19.45 gallons

I suggest you look at your boost hoses. Take them off so you can see all around as they tend to get a small tear on the underside. Also inspect the intercooler for hairline cracks in the area where the boost hoses attach. If your losing boost the mileage will go down and you should also notice poor acceleration.

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2006 black limited crd Mesa AZ

Bad rockers? Bad timing? Brakes sticking?

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

Start with the cheapest solutions and move up.

First, bump your tires up to 35 to 40 psi range.

Second, change air filter if not recently.

Third, dump the heavy oil and put in some 5w40.

Fourth, your boost may be low due to a leak (intercooler or hoses) or due to stuck vanes in the turbo. Might want to install a boost gauge on the manifold to see what the boost is doing.

Fifth, your intake may be plugged with soot. It is a pain to remove and clean but I've seen some intakes that are really restricted. The good news is that since you eliminated the EGR you should not have to deal with soot buildup again.

Sixth, clean or change your map sensor. They are available from Chevy for about $20 or pay $50 at your Jeep dealer.

Seventh, check for leaking injectors. (you'll hear a psh, psh, psh when you listen after removing the engine cover).

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My collection of CRD's:
2005 Deep Beryl Green Pearlcoat
2006 Light Khaki Metallic Clearcoat
2006 Inferno Red Crystal Pearlcoat
2006 Midnight Blue Pearlcoat
2006 Gold Limited
2015 Black Ecodiesel
2015 Black Ecodiesel 2

I bought mine in a state similar to yours. My MAP sensor was beyond cleaning and changing it helped immensely. Rock Auto also has them.

When i dumped the used up Wranglers for some low rolling resistance tires (Nokian Rotiiva AT) I picked up mileage, even with the change from nearly bald to new aggressive tires. The effect that different tire compounds has on mileage can not be underestimated. Winter tires absolutely kill mileage, you really pay for that ice traction. If you end up buying tires I can't recommend the Rotiivas enough.

Oil weight might not affect fuel economy, but heavy oil is not good for these new engines, esp. this time of year up north. If you live in Polar Land I'd get some 0w-40, even if you have to order it in from IDParts.

I made my EGR fall off and plugged it off with Sasquatch's kit. EGR systems kill mileage. Hate them. If your engine was not "worked" before you bought it it's very possible your intake is plugged up with soot--pulling off the EGR and taking a look at the intake pipe may horrify you, and you can make the decision whether or not to take off the intake and clean it then. Diesels need to breath. Obviously your exhaust isn't the problem so I'd take a hard look at the intake.

Winter fuel does have less BTU's but it wouldn't single handedly kill your mileage.

Another long shot might be your torque converter. The factor units are notoriously lousy. I got a billet unit from Florida Torque Converters and I've been thrilled with it, the price was reasonable. I know that installing that unit along with a shift kit helped my mileage and definitely my reliability.

Sorry you're having to fight this beast--but once you get them ironed out and reliable there's nothing else like them.

I get 28-30 mpg hwy (trip computer reading) consistently. No GDE tune, yet.

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The fuel savings from my engine modifications should pay for those modifications in about 250,000 miles

Don't forget to check your diff oil, and if your not towing of going hardcore offroad use 75w90

a bad alignment can also raise your consumption !!

Dumped the heavy oil and just put in fresh rotella 5/40 synthetic. Just changed the rear diff fluid as the wheel seal was shot and pouring it out onto the wheel. Also just put a fuel filter on it last night. Intercooler lines are new but thats not to say there isnt a leak somewhere. Ill check that. When you say check the intake are you talking the intake manifold or the intake fcv unit? Thats gone and i have a weeks elbow. If the manifold looks anything like the fcv did its caked. I scraped what i could reach but thats not much.

Map sensor was clean when i got it but doesnt mean it wasnt dirty before and is working correctly. What gm part number do i need? Ill bump the tire pressure up and start looking at some new skins for it.

I averaged 16 mpg driving to Colorado and back.......but I was pulling a 4,000 lb HW pop-up camper going 65-75 on the freeway!

Winter is the worst time to be evaluating fuel economy, especially with how cold it was in late December and early January. I average 18-20 in the winter and 21-22 in the summer commuting to work in mixed driving under 10 miles. I can get up around 25-28 if I take a longer trip under 65 mph. I don't get above 30 like others have. I very rarely get 500 miles out of a tank, but typically over 400.

I agree with the others on the usual suspects, but I will reiterate the winter tire thing, they will hurt your mileage. The rubber is a different compound and is much softer, so more rolling resistance. Your short commute also isn't helping, need to go at least 15 miles to get everything warmed up. Are you still running the DIY tune? Do you park it outside or in a garage? How much do you let idle run before driving to/from work? Do you have a lot of stop-lights on your commute? Can you hear your turbo spool up when accelerating? Does your TC lock up when on the freeway?

A little note on "off road" diesel, it is the same as "on road" diesel, but is dyed red and is meant to be used in "Off-Highway" vehicles only, so farm machinery and construction equipment. Its cheaper because there is no fuel tax on it, but is illegal to run in a vehicle that drives on the highway. In the winter it gets the same blending treatment as "on road" diesel.

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2005 Liberty (KJ) CRD Limited - GDE FT ECO-Tune, Custom Trans Tune, Euro TC, 5V Steel GP, Weeks Stage 1&2, ARP Studs
1998 Cherokee (XJ) Classic - 30" Discoverer STT's on 2" Lift, SYE, 8.25 w/Aussie Locker
1984 CJ7 (CJ) - Stock
2011 VW Routan - Wish it had a CRD!
2011 Dodge Durango - HEMI, 4WD, Factory Tow Hook & Skid Plates