Trying to figure out what this noise is

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 65

Hey guys I've tried to find this same sound from other threads or videos but can't quite find it. I'm not sure exactly when it started but it was a few months ago a little after I changed the alternator decoupler. The sound is only at and idle. It usually isn't effected by temperature however I will say that her in st. Louis it got warm yesterday and when the wife came home with the Jeep the sound was completely gone. That's the first time that had happened. I started it this morning and took this video https://youtu.be/_R76W6FaR5A to let you guys here it. It seems like it may be coming from under the timing belt cover. Timing belt was changed by previous owner at the dealer about 70k miles ago. Thanks guys. Oh and dont mind the in line thermostat

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Feb 11, 2017 9:20 am

Have tried removing the serpentine belt and starting the engine and see if noise is still there?
Sounds to me like a pulley bearing rattling!!! :roll:

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 65

WWDiesel wrote:

Have tried removing the serpentine belt and starting the engine and see if noise is still there?
Sounds to me like a pulley bearing rattling!!! :roll:

I haven't done that yet although I forgot to mention the serpentine belt is brand new along with the serpentine idler pulleys. Maybe I will try removing the serpentine and starting it later this morning

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Sergio del Castillo · **Posted:** Sat Feb 11, 2017 1:20 pm

Hello Irocelectric 93,
I had the same noise. It was frustrating to ping point. You could hear it at idle when you first started in the morning, as soon as the Lib got to working temperature you could hear it no more. The end result: The Water Pump. I had it rebuilt and replaced along with the trimming belt, idler pulleys and tension pulley, was getting close to the 100 K miles on the engine and I had it open, and the noise disappeared. As you I had replaced before the alternator pulley and the serpentine belt and associated pulleys at no avail. Now, at least front there, every thing is new and no noise.

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 65

Well thank you sir. That's helpful. Not the best news but helpful. I'll let everyone know what I find.

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jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 11, 2017 1:50 pm

Sergio del Castillo wrote:

Hello Irocelectric 93,
I had the same noise. It was frustrating to ping point. You could hear it at idle when you first started in the morning, as soon as the Lib got to working temperature you could hear it no more. The end result: The Water Pump. I had it rebuilt and replaced along with the trimming belt, idler pulleys and tension pulley, was getting close to the 100 K miles on the engine and I had it open, and the noise disappeared. As you I had replaced before the alternator pulley and the serpentine belt and associated pulleys at no avail. Now, at least front there, every thing is new and no noise.

You had the water pump rebuilt? This is a first I've heard anyone doing that. Who did it? Why not just going with a new front half

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 65

jws84_02 wrote:

Sergio del Castillo wrote:

Hello Irocelectric 93,
I had the same noise. It was frustrating to ping point. You could hear it at idle when you first started in the morning, as soon as the Lib got to working temperature you could hear it no more. The end result: The Water Pump. I had it rebuilt and replaced along with the trimming belt, idler pulleys and tension pulley, was getting close to the 100 K miles on the engine and I had it open, and the noise disappeared. As you I had replaced before the alternator pulley and the serpentine belt and associated pulleys at no avail. Now, at least front there, every thing is new and no noise.

You had the water pump rebuilt? This is a first I've heard anyone doing that. Who did it? Why not just going with a new front half

It was replaced by the previous owner at the dealer. I must have mis typed

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joe_ · **Posted:** Sat Feb 11, 2017 3:46 pm

His post was in response to Sergio saying he had his water pump rebuilt

Do you know for sure that they replaced the water pump when they changed the timing belt? They may have left the water pump alone and replaced only the belt.

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 65

joe_ wrote:

His post was in response to Sergio saying he had his water pump rebuilt

Do you know for sure that they replaced the water pump when they changed the timing belt? They may have left the water pump alone and replaced only the belt.

The dealer paperwork says they did. However the tensioner and idler pulleys are not listed

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joe_ · **Posted:** Sun Feb 12, 2017 12:55 am

Could be an idler or the tensioner. Or I guess at 70k it isn't unheard of for a water pump to fail.

If you haven't gotten to it yet, pulling the serpentine belt would be the first step. If that's not it, then go on to the timing belt components. If it's timing belt related, I'd definitely suggest getting it taken care of sooner rather than later.

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 65

I decided to do the timing belt so I ordered everything from. Idparts. However during the price of taking everything apart I also needed to change the number 2 glow plug and figured I'd do it now while I waited for the rest of my stuff and broke the glow plug off in the head. So looks like I may be removing the head. Yeah when it rains it pours. I'm getting to my whit's end with this thing. It has the 7v etenco steel glow plugs. I've replaced the number 1 already so it didn't think much of it. Seemed like it was coming out fine but guess not. I'll update as I go along.

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joe_ · **Posted:** Sun Feb 12, 2017 1:07 am

That's no fun! I broke off my #3 plug last summer ... took the head to a machine shop and they were able to get it out of there for $100.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Feb 12, 2017 1:17 pm

To me it sounds like you have a wrench stuck in the engine shield. If you raise the rpms by 50-100, does the noise change?

I'd get a mechanical sthetoscope and listen the water pump before I'd take everything apart. May be something trivial and not the water pump. If the water pump bearing is tired, you'll hear the noise amplified.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Feb 12, 2017 2:00 pm

Irocelectric93 wrote:

joe_ wrote:

However the tensioner and idler pulleys are not listed

Not good!

Any good mechanic should know to replace all pulleys and tensioner when servicing a 100k rated timing belt! :roll:

On the broken GP, they do make some tool kits just for removing broke GP's (see picture below). Plenty available on eBay! May be an option since it is no. 2 and fairly easy to get at verses 3 & 4.
Google: "Damaged Glow Plug Removal Set"
or
Link:> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Glow-Plug-Remov ... 10&vxp=mtr

If you do end up pulling the head, be sure and use APR head studs going back... :wink:

Sergio del Castillo · **Posted:** Sun Feb 12, 2017 9:48 pm

Joe,
I had the water pump, the front end, shipped to a company in Texas that I found through Rockauto, and the replaced the seals the bearing and the impeller, they shipped back to me and I gave it back to the shop, so yes they did replace the water pump. I advance the work on the timing belt and the idler pulleys and tension-er as it was close to the 100K miles mark and had the front of the engine opened already. I have been using this technician since I got my Lib new in 2005, 12 years and 190K miles this February. No complains whatsoever. I followed him as he moved from one shop to another. The water pump was rebuit last October and about 2,500 miles ago. so far no complains. I was loosing some coolant two weeks ago but it was from he hoses to the EGR that had rotten (the factory ones).

joe_ · **Posted:** Mon Feb 13, 2017 10:27 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Not good!

Any good mechanic should know to replace all pulleys and tensioner when servicing a 100k rated timing belt! :roll:

^ this. A few years ago I did a timing belt and water pump job on a different car, but didn't replace the tensioner pulley because it felt ok and money was tight. About halfway through the new belt's life, the bearings on that pulley came apart and the pulley locked up while I was driving. I was incredibly lucky the belt routing on that particular engine allowed the belt to slide right across the locked up pulley without breaking (although it did make a not-so-nice screeching noise the entire time). When I took off the timing cover, there were ball bearings everywhere and the timing pulley was off-center, with the inner and the outer bearing races against each other.

I was lucky and it only cost me an emergency timing belt job rather than bent valves, but I still wouldn't risk that again.

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 65

Well I tried the extraction kit and broke off the extractor down it the head. It's not like it ever got really tight....It's just got tight for like a turn or so then pop...broke. So now the head is coming off. I haven't the slightest idea how this thing comes off. Anybody care to give me a rundown so I don't have to go thread searching because right now I'm feeling pretty defeated. Wouldn't be a big deal but it's the wife's daily driver and she's driving my CRD while I drive my beat up old truck. Oh the joy.

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jws84_02 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 15, 2017 9:24 pm

What's your location? Pretty much everything has to come off first(timing components, valve cover) Then I always undo the exhaust at the turbo, oil feed and drain lines and pull the head, manifold and turbo all in one

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 65

jws84_02 wrote:

What's your location? Pretty much everything has to come off first(timing components, valve cover) Then I always undo the exhaust at the turbo, oil feed and drain lines and pull the head, manifold and turbo all in one

Location as in where I live? Just outside of st. Louis. I have the front end pulled off and the timing cover removed so I'll pull the timing components tomorrow and hopefully get the exhaust disconnected. I don't have a lot of time after work to wrench and right now I'm working Saturdays so that's another reason why this is a bit stressful besides all the money part. Any other tips out there? For a daily are OEM head bolts sufficient? It has 175k on it and I'm not against going with the ARP studs but man the bill for this is adding up quick and I still have to have the machine work done to get the GP out.

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jws84_02 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 16, 2017 9:23 am

I would highly suggest against the stock head bolts. They are junk. I know the bill is growing but I would also throw in some fresh rockers while its apart

Trying to figure out what this noise is

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