Need Help. Cranks, No Start

Winkster · **Posted:** Wed Nov 30, 2016 9:01 am

It was running GREAT, then shut down while running on Thanksgiving. Cranks, won't start.
I followed the manual's troubleshooting as best I could with an ohm meter but no diagnostic tool other than GDE's scanner.

Here are the codes:
P2295-FUEL PRESSURE SOLENOID SHORT TO GROUND. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9-1426

P0091-FUEL QUANTITY SOLENOID SHORT TO GROUND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9-731

P0047-TURBOCHARGER BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID SHORT TO GROUND. . . . . . . . .9-700

P1251-VACUUM RESERVOIR SOLENOID SHORT TO GROUND. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9-1321

P0480-COOLING FAN 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9-388

P0481-FAN 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT EXCESSIVE CURRENT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9-982

P0670-GLOW PLUG CONTROLLER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9-1134

P0560-ECM VOLTAGE TOO HIGH . . . . . . . . . .9-1048
P0560-ECM VOLTAGE TOO LOW . . . . . . . . . .9-1049

P0489-EGR SOLENOID CIRCUIT SHORT CIRCUIT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9-994

I've trouble shot the codes and the only one that comes up is "Fused Ignition Switch Start Output Circuit Open" which says to "Repair the Fused Ignition Switch (Start). I checked the fuse, it's good. I swapped the starter relay, no change. I traced the wires as best I could without tearing all the bundles apart and found nothing. I can't find a diagram of the "Module, Engine Control" I assume that's the ECM.

I found this in the manual:

ENGINE START-UP MODE
This is an Open Loop mode. The following actions occur when the starter motor is engaged.
The PCM receives inputs from:
- Battery voltage
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
- CranKshaft Position (CKP) sensor
- Intake manifold Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
- Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
- Camshaft position sensor signal
The PCM monitors the crankshaft position sensor. If the PCM does not receive a crankshaft position sensor signal
within three seconds of cranking the engine, it will shut down the fuel injection system.
The fuel pump is activated by the PCM through the fuel pump relay.
Voltage is applied to the fuel injectors with the ASD relay via the PCM. The PCM will then control the injection
sequence and injector pulse width by turning the ground circuit to each individual injector on and off.
The PCM determines the proper ignition timing according to input received from the crankshaft position sensor.

At one point I got side tracked and started to trouble shoot it as a fuel issue but didn't finish when I realized it has to be electrical.

Anybody seen this before???

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 30, 2016 9:37 am

At first glance I'd say that you have a wire shorting out somewhere or a loose connection at the ECM.

Check all fuses
Check battery voltage
Check ASD relay
Check ASD fuse
Check crankshaft position sensor
Check ignition key switch

Is the red dot lit on the instrument cluster? That would indicate a SKIM problem.

Winkster · **Posted:** Wed Nov 30, 2016 11:28 am

Thank You for your reply.

I unhooked the battery and took the ECM out, blew out the connectors, inspected everything before starting the electrical tests.

1. Checked all fuses in both fuse blocks, twice, the 2nd time in the middle of the night when I couldn't sleep.
2. Battery is GREAT, did a load test.
3. Did the ASD diag's and found the "Fused Ignition Switch Start Output Circuit Open", but could not figure out why.
4. Traced wires associated with "Fused Ignition Switch Start Output Circuit Open" and ohm'd out between points I could get to as well as ground with no opens or shorts.
5. ASD fuse?? in the engine fuse block? yes.
6. Have not diagnosed the Crankshaft position sensor because it wasn't listed in the codes, but will and will report back.
7. Did not consider the ignition key switch. Need to look at the wiring diagram.
8. This is a 2006, no SKIM.

Again, I appreciate your reply.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 30, 2016 12:46 pm

Quote:

8. This is a 2006, no SKIM.

It does have a SKIM. (security key ignition module)
Its how the programmed key communicates with the ECM.
Unless for some reason yours is disabled and you dont need a programmed key.

If the red dot is not lit, then we can assume its not a SKIM problem.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Nov 30, 2016 1:47 pm

Both 05's & 06's have SKIMs
Have you checked the wiring harness behind the fuel filter head? 06's have a known issue of wiring harness chaffing in this area! :roll:

Winkster · **Posted:** Wed Nov 30, 2016 6:22 pm

While I've been at work I've tried to find parts. From any Jeep or Chrysler source they are OUTRAGEOUSLY expensive. From Bosch sources, they are just expensive. BUT the Fuel Pump, Fuel Pump Actuator and Injectors are only available from authorized Bosch Diesel injector shops. The sensors are only available from authorized Bosch Electrical re-sellers. It seems everything comes out of Atlanta, so if you are in Atlanta, you've got it made.

Winkster · **Posted:** Thu Dec 01, 2016 6:16 pm

man this sucks. I borrowed a snap-on analyzer and it doesn't see either the Cam Position sensor nor the crank position sensor turning when cranking. it says DLC K0E0 Voltage is at 11.9V while the battery is at 12.6V.

So I didn't believe it and got a buddy's high end Bosch analyzer. it did the same thing, BUT! It recommended checking the Power Distribution Center (PDC)....

Both said the ECM is good.

So there's a short after the ECM that is taking out the cam and crank position sensor with no code and causing all the other sensors to show short to ground.

I'm going to start by ohm'ing out all the hots in the PDC to the battery ground lead... (with the battery disconnected)
If I find a short, I will disconnect all the end devices on that circuit and test it again.
If it's then open, it's an end device. If it's still shorted at least I have wires to chase.
I have to remember to include fuse 14 in the cabin fuse box.

If it's a wire, I have an old Time Domain Reflexomitor (TDR) at the office that I bet i can use to find the distance to the short.

Winkster · **Posted:** Fri Dec 02, 2016 10:52 am

Right before the trip on which my CRD shut down, I had added a camera to a circuit i added some time ago for USB charging. The fuse isn't blown, but does the Engine Control Module track total draw?
Could adding the camera have caused this problem?
The max draw by the camera is 1.5A.
The other device on the circuit was may phone, which draws a max of 1.5A. The fuse is 10A.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 02, 2016 11:20 am

Is the camera USB?

USB connections are only 5 volts.
5v x 1.5A= 7.5 watts x 2= 15 watts.
That fused 12v 10A circuit is good for 120 watts.

I doubt the camera is the problem. But when in doubt, unplug it.

Winkster · **Posted:** Fri Dec 02, 2016 6:10 pm

Not quite fixed, but it started! When I took everything in the engine PDU out, tested all the relays and blew everything out I found a fuse I'd missed, ASD feed, AND it was blown. Of course I started on the right and worked to the left. It was the last fuse. It's off by itself and was dirty, so I missed it initially. Put another 15A fuse back in and it wouldn't start, then I remembered that you have to clear the codes, I did that, it started and I got about 20 feet before it died. I put another fuse in, pulled the PDU up, cleared the codes again and at least got it in the garage where it's warm! Now I can find what's causing the short!!! At least I have a place to look.

Winkster · **Posted:** Fri Dec 02, 2016 7:40 pm

Fuse 16 in the PDU provides control voltage to:
Pressure Solenoid
Fuel Quality Solenoid
Turbo Boost Pressure Solenoid
Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid
Radiator Fan Hi and low relays
Glow Plug Controller
EGR Solenoid
Cabin Heater Relay
AC Clutch Relay

When it blows, nothing works.

Tracing the wire is easy, the wire is the same color no matter where it goes, brown and pink.

Since I got it running I can't find what is causing the short.
I'm sure it will come back.
At least I know where to look and will carry a box of 15A fuses.

joe_ · **Posted:** Fri Dec 02, 2016 8:07 pm

A lot of '06s seem to have an issue with the wiring harness rubbing on the bracket for the fuel filter head, so definitely check there. I've also read about people finding shorts from the harness rubbing on the cast aluminum bracket that runs from the intake to the back of the alternator, and also rubbing somewhere against the power steering lines.

Winkster · **Posted:** Fri Mar 17, 2017 11:06 am

UPDATE!

For several months I've been trying to figure out why fuse 16 blows at random times.
Fuse 16 is only used for control voltage to relays and a couple solenoids.
Last week I figured it out.

Several years ago I switched from the 7V ceramic glow plugs to 5V steel and used GDE's hot tune.

I systematically swapped all the relays that use fuse 16 for control voltage each time the fuse would blow.
The last relay was the most expensive, the glow plug relay.
I searching for the relay I found that there are 2 relays, one for 7v and one for 7v & 5v.
DUHHH.

Here's a good video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYWHx65elCU

The 7v relay part number is: Jeep # 56044671AA
The "New" 5v and 7v relay part number seems to be: Jeep # 56044671AC

Comments???

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Mar 17, 2017 2:25 pm

Same part number, AC is just a later version.

Quote:

From Chrysler Parts.com:
MODULE, PLUG. Glow, Glow Plug.
Part Number: 56044671AC ; 56044671AA; 68090434AA; 05142577AA; 68090431AA
7 volt, Used with ceramic style (white) glow plugs, Used with metalic glow plugs.

All part numbers are the same part with the "AC" being the latest version!
:SOMBRERO:

Note:
OEM Part Number: 56044671AC
Manufacturer Number: 56044671AC
This glow plug module can run both the 5V and 7V glow plugs.
Glow plug voltage is set by the ECU, therefore your ECU *must* have proper programming for the glow plugs you are running.

Winkster · **Posted:** Sat Nov 02, 2019 8:34 pm

Jeeps been running exceptionally well. Just did the Fall fuel filter swap and decided to wire in the heater, which I failed to do when I upgraded the fuel head. Took the plastic box on the firewall apart and found that the heater wire had melted and was shorted to a Brown & Pink wire. During the trouble shooting I replaced most of the wiring protectors with new, nylon protectors. when I did that I inadvertently separated the heater wire from the Brown & Pink wire. All is fixed now and I will have nice warm fuel going to the injectors.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 04, 2019 6:45 am

So it was a brown and pink wire that was shorted after all !!
Glad you finally tracked it down and got your fuel heated at the same time :BANANA:

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Nov 04, 2019 2:48 pm

And now you can unplug that heater and forget about it... You don't need that heater. Two primary reasons: The heater only comes on after the engine is already running, so it is useless if your fuel ever somehow turned to jelly. Second reason: The heater is too small to do much in raising the temperature, BUT even the second generation head has shown the potential of cracking and allowing air leaks from the heater working in an air pocket instead of only on fuel.

The injection pump raises the temperature of the fuel quite rapidly by compressing it to 10,000psi or more. This adds a LOT of heat to the fuel, as well as cooling the pump and lubricating it. You don't need a heater in the filter to "pre-heat" the fuel.

olypopper · **Posted:** Mon Nov 11, 2019 9:32 pm

geordi wrote:

And now you can unplug that heater and forget about it... You don't need that heater. Two primary reasons: The heater only comes on after the engine is already running, so it is useless if your fuel ever somehow turned to jelly. Second reason: The heater is too small to do much in raising the temperature, BUT even the second generation head has shown the potential of cracking and allowing air leaks from the heater working in an air pocket instead of only on fuel.

The injection pump raises the temperature of the fuel quite rapidly by compressing it to 10,000psi or more. This adds a LOT of heat to the fuel, as well as cooling the pump and lubricating it. You don't need a heater in the filter to "pre-heat" the fuel.

I disagree with this recommendation. Unplugging the filter head heater in the midwest is not a sound practice. Fuel can be improperly conditioned or blended depending on location of origin and the filter element is where the first start of fuel waxing will occur. Raising the fuel temp slightly can be all that is needed to prevent a plugged fuel filter element and keep you running. The heat generated by the CP3 is of no consequence if the filter plugs and starves the system of adequate fuel flow. If he lived in Texas, I'd say go for it.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Nov 12, 2019 3:49 pm

And how exactly will a stone-cold filter and 40 watt heater be of assistance in that? The heater is not active when the engine is not running, and cannot build enough temperature in the fuel filter without the engine running far longer than it would take for that fuel to get into the pump.

Also - there is no difference in the fuel sold in Texas versus International Falls Minnesota. There is only one grade of diesel in the USA, and it is winterized at the refinery level starting in early September b/c it gets delivered everywhere. The range of a semi who fills up in Texas is also easily within range of driving directly to too-cold-for-comfort areas on a single tank. If there is a problem with jelly fuel, you KNOW that trucker's company will have records and go after the supplier that sold non-winterized fuel.

The filter heater is just not large enough to make any difference in this equation. Either your fuel is winterized or it is not. If it is winterized, then it doesn't NEED any heater to keep it from turning to jelly, and will flow at any temperature likely to be found.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Nov 14, 2019 2:35 am

The OEM fuel heater is incapable of warming the fuel in any way that would make a difference once the fuel has jelled. Even if it were enough to un-gel the fuel in the filter, (its not) once the fuel tries to move it will be gelled again before it can reach the CP3.

In addition to the above, I can tell you from experience, that if the fuel in the filter has gelled, then it has also jelled in the lines and tank long before. Once this happens, additives won't work until the whole system has warmed enough to allow the fuel to move. Not just the filter head.

Once that happens, and the engine is started, it's the CP3 that keeps heat in the system, and gives you a chance to get an additive mixed in to prevent further jelling.

Besides, if they live in an area that is subject to freezing temps, they'd darn sure better be smart enough to put anti-gel additive in when they fill up, no matter where they get their fuel, or what the temp is outside. I've seen -in Oregon- outside temperatures drop over F70 degrees overnight. Took nearly a week to get my diesel running again, and I've never given the weather a chance to do that again, Even the 30 years I lived in San Diego.

Need Help. Cranks, No Start

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