Hi all, I posted about an issue im having with my serpentine belt. While researching this issue i found that the viscous heater is pretty much useless and so is the AC compressor (I live in Canada).

I know some people on here have completely removed at least the viscous heater from the circuit. What i am wondering if it is possible ... without physically removing the parts to reroute the belt around the pulleys to exclude them out of the circuit.

I did see some pictures here and there but not sure ive seen details on how its done from start to finish(how-to style). Part of what ive seen had to do with replacing one of the pulleys with a larger diameter pulley and getting a smaller serpentine belt.

My reasoning is that i would rather not have to replace the viscous heater pulley and the AC pulley's i would rather spend the time and money on removing them thus having fewer things to fail. Right now the viscous heater pulley has a bit of play in it and im in the process of replacing the belt tensioner(waiting on parts). But i dont want to put that in and have it broken again by one of the bad pulleys, i would rather spend the time and effort to remove ac/viscous heater THEN add this in.

Never done it on a CRD, but you could A. unplug the relays for both the AC compressor, and the Viscous heater, or B. get a string and see if you can route it in such a way as to still turn everything the same way, and miss those two items. (Then measure the string, and buy a belt that long +/- some small amount


It's probably useful to keep the heater though, especially in Canada.

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05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs --Stolen from papaindigo

I've also wondered of deleting the Viscious heater completely. I live in WI, and its just a crappy noisy clanky thing. I'd rather let it warm up the extra 5 minutes or so.

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I can do a job quick, good, or cheap, pick ONE.


2005 Jeep Liberty CRD

It has been done by some and discussed and covered along with "how to's" in great detail in this thread!!!

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=85330&hilit

Enjoy

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Just read through that entire thread before buying parts.
I made some changes and the updated part numbers are on the second page.

As far as deleting the AC goes, maybe contact Mountainman to find out what he did for that.
I'm pretty sure he moved the tensioner to a different location which required removing the engine fan and its bracket/mount.
For my VH only delete, the fan pulley must be removed but bracket/mount stays in place.

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U.S. Army Retired

Yup, I pulled all AC and VH parts out, including cutting the AC radiator off off the top of the stock transmission cooler for some serious air flow because I tow really heavy. Tensioner relocate takes about ten minutes with a file. I could probably run this set-up with a mechanical fan, but they are yet another set of bearings to wear out. The mechanical fan hub bearings explode around 150k miles. This eats the $500 radiator and other expensive hoses and such.
I have amazing access to the engine for repairs, and excellent cooling. Actually I'm about to replace the 203 degree thermostat with a new one because I'm over cooling now in the winter, and just maybe the stat is a little on the weak side. Even with a mostly blocked off radiator, and it's only been around 32F.

I get the slightest bit of belt slip at full lock, but maybe a new tensioner will help, as mine has 190k miles on it. But, you should see how stable the belt is when it runs, it has zero bounce.
FWIW

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Thank you for the replies ... my computer was down for a few days but im back now and im reading the viscous heater delete thread. Since the CRD is my main driver i have bought another car(tiny honda fit) and waiting to fix that up meanwhile im going to readup on stuff i need to do.

So as an update, I finally got the belt tensioner installed ... after some drama with the delivery company.
Almost lost an eye taking out the pin from the tensioner ...

The biggest tragedy of all is that i had to put it in with the rest of the junk after reading all the threads possible several times im pretty confident i know what needs to be done to remove the AC, Viscous heater and mech fan. Problems im facing is measuring and obtaining a belt of appropriate length.

If you have any ideas how i could do that, i would much appreciate it as i do plan on removing that junk after some time.

i thought these heeps had non replaceable thermostats? (ie: you have to buy the entire OEM housing for like $400 instead of a $10 STANT

??

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Got Sheep?

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD 271'000+ KM's, ORM, Muffler Delete, MOROSO oil/air separator unit, 1000 CA battery, ARB Bull bumper, OME coils/shocks 2" lift. Custom BushRoo roof rack & Bush Joey hitch rack. Mobil1-301 oil filter & Mobil 1 DELVAC ESP 0W40 Full Synthetic oil, custom rear hatch cargo rack. RACOR 245 filterhead

Oem yes but not if you have a self built unit or Jeffs one. They are replaceable. Search if you are interested. A lot of discussion on this forum about it

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2006 CRD Jeep Liberty / Cherokee - Weeks Stage 1 & 2, GDE Eco Tune, Carter In-Tank Fuel Pump & Provent 200.

I'm getting a similar result. As soon as I sit, if the heat is on at all the coolant just drops.

I wanna remove the mech fan but I'm afraid with the hills I'll still overheat in the winter without it

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I never overheated in winter without mechanical fan. I had mine out first winter after doing timing belt. I think a few people pull the fan for winter.
I have been covering 3/4 of the grille openings each winter too.

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Now have GDE full torque eco tune and eco transmission tune. Used an 02 liberty trans computer for my new trans tune.